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It's been a while! Recently (yesterday) snagged a '79 P200. First vintage scoot. I've been looking for a while and this seemed like a good project! Previous owner said motor ran fine, but was blowing a fuse. Whole headset is apart. I was able to start it and motor sounds decent. I'm pretty sure I need to replace all the cables and wiring harness. Figured I'd try to get it running before I did a full tear down, but that's looking less and less likely.

My current issue is the front brake cable is pretty much toast and the throttle cable seems...short? When I get the throttle assembly together, its basically WOT, no play in the cable.

At this point, I will probably pull everything apart and try to get it media blasted and repainted, it has a pretty bad overspray job. Then I can install all new cables and wiring harness. Only cost me $500 so it'll be a fun project. More or less mechanically sound, just wiring and cables are in bad shape. I'm also not really certain if its a P or PX 200.

Glad to be back!

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I'd definitely buy one like that for 500 Wha? emoticon

You should check that the throttle cable is fully seated on the headset and carb side. There should be a top hat on the cable that seats into a bracket inside the headset. The cable could be sitting on the edge of the hat and hat may not be seated in the bracket. Otherwise it's a matter of replacing the cables.

Little tip: If you decide to pull out the harness, attach a wire to it so you have something to pull the new stuff in the same way it was. If you are not super familiar with the routing (like behind or in front of the lock etc...) this will save your bacon and a lot of time.

Replacing the cables is also easier if you get a wire that is 2x the lenght of the longest cable. You can feed that through the old and new outer cables and then pull the new one in at the same time you pull the old one out.
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FINYoshi wrote:
I'd definitely buy one like that for 500 Wha? emoticon

You should check that the throttle cable is fully seated on the headset and carb side. There should be a top hat on the cable that seats into a bracket inside the headset. The cable could be sitting on the edge of the hat and hat may not be seated in the bracket. Otherwise it's a matter of replacing the cables.

Little tip: If you decide to pull out the harness, attach a wire to it so you have something to pull the new stuff in the same way it was. If you are not super familiar with the routing (like behind or in front of the lock etc...) this will save your bacon and a lot of time.

Replacing the cables is also easier if you get a wire that is 2x the lenght of the longest cable. You can feed that through the old and new outer cables and then pull the new one in at the same time you pull the old one out.
Thanks for the suggestions. I am probably going to replace the throttle cable, not sure why, but its too short! it is properly seated. I"m hoping to get it running so I can verify things are mostly working before I tear it down. I'd like to get it stripped and repainted if I'm going to put a bunch of work into it!
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Figured out the throttle cable issue, the bushing was inside the headset, as opposed to the outside. Rode it around, pulls hard. Now that I know it works well and runs pretty good, I've started to tear it down so I can strip and repaint it and put all new wires, cables, bushings, gaskets, etc.

progress thus far: tank pulled (doing a cleaning regimen on that), carb and airbox/oil pump, headset, steering column, and a bunch of cables and wires. You can see the original color where i pulled the horn cover. progress is exciting. little bit at a time.

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Looks like we are building our Ps at the same time!! Good luck, and keep the pics coming.
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I'm not trying to rain on your parade, but buying a vintage and immediately tearing it apart is where project bikes come from for the rest of us. It's a harsh beginning. It's how I started with my Lambretta and I almost gave up scooters altogether from the frustration.

Now, the good news is we are here for you to help and the P200 is the ideal first vintage bike. It's just that living with a runner for a year or two can yield so much useful experience before you get knee deep in a torn apart motor.

So, when you do get frustrated (we all do, it's the nature of the thing), come ask for help instead of letting it fester.
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^^^
All of that.

Good luck we're rooting for ya!
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Glad to have another 79 p200 getting on the road again! I will be watching this and welcome!
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'"Little tip: If you decide to pull out the harness, attach a wire to it so you have something to pull the new stuff in the same way it was. If you are not super familiar with the routing (like behind or in front of the lock etc...) this will save your bacon and a lot of time."

This is AWESOME advice. I am going to tape one string to each wire set I need to pull (and label the strings with tape) so when I need to, I can just pull them straight through.

I bought some thin piano wire for the outer cables so I can do the same thing with those.
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dsnyder586 wrote:
'"Little tip: If you decide to pull out the harness, attach a wire to it so you have something to pull the new stuff in the same way it was. If you are not super familiar with the routing (like behind or in front of the lock etc...) this will save your bacon and a lot of time."

This is AWESOME advice. I am going to tape one string to each wire set I need to pull (and label the strings with tape) so when I need to, I can just pull them straight through.

I bought some thin piano wire for the outer cables so I can do the same thing with those.
tape 2 for each, in case you lose one...
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When you reinstall a wiring harness, you will know the meaning of frustration . Semi-kidding here, that was the worse part of my first P200 rebuild. I would have also told you to ride it for awhile and fix what needs fixing as you go, but as you are determined (and already started) to tear it apart, plan on spending at least $1500 or so for a complete refresh - and that's probably on the cheap side. But whatever, as SDjohn said, we are here to help when needed.
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Thanks all. I'm doing this for me, and not for some flip. Everything is a learning process! I'm definitely interested in running auxiliary wires/pulls when i pull the harness. I'm making efforts to try and refurb/reuse things that I can and replace stuff that needs to be. I will definitely be asking for help
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I do have one question right now. When I pulled the front fork, the lower steering bearing/race didn't have the dust cover. Is that something I'd have to pull the lower race in order to put a new dust cover/grease cup? Or does it fit over that?
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Rule #1 - use lots of pictures
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looks like just the bearing and the seat w/no dust cover:
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I don't have the answer but you have now asked perfectly - someone will get you shortly...

Another rule I have for myself - if I really want the answer to a question, I stop adding more content afterward and burying my own question. I have a tendency to keep adding photos and more questions but I realized if I really want an answer - slow down the new content additions until after you get some pings.
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Looks like it is missing the lower race or "grease cup"

Middle top in this link:
https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Forks-and-Races/153024-25

SIP link should show the general order of the lower race compnents:
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/category/klassik-vespa_2/spares_1751/vespa-125-150-rally-57_T6/suspension-vespa-125-150-rally-57_1773/steering-column-mudguard_1124
⚠️ Last edited by Birdsnest on UTC; edited 1 time
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SIP has pretty good explos for many scooters:
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/explos?scooter-type=T5
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it looks like you probably have 6,7, and 8 but not 9 in that diagram that Finyoshi attached
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^^^

That's the one I meant to post!
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if you haven't yet, print out this:

http://scooterhelp.com/serial/VNX1T.VSX1T.parts.book.html
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UTC quote
Awesome, thanks. After i saw that diagram, i assumed it was missing. Ideally i'll replace the entire upper and lower while i'm in there, i just need the tools Razz emoticon Anyone in San Antonio with those bearing pullers and presses?
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I used hammer and a long threaded rod to knock the races loose from the frame and tapped new ones in with a big socket.
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ScottSA wrote:
I do have one question right now. When I pulled the front fork, the lower steering bearing/race didn't have the dust cover. Is that something I'd have to pull the lower race in order to put a new dust cover/grease cup? Or does it fit over that?
Yeah, you have to pull the lower bearing race. Use an old putty knife to get it started, hammering into the gap all around, then graduate to thin screwdrivers until you get it up high enuff to pry all around.

Another tip: When you strip it for painting, use your loom and cables to pull your piano or mechanic's wires into place and leave them there during painting, ready to pull the new into place when painting is done. For cables they should be TWICE + the length of the outer and you can coil up the extra, tight and out of the way. Or just leave the loom and outers in place until after it's painted if you're not all that fussy.
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Since you're painting, it may not be a useful tip - but honestly a lot of people will change the bearing and leave the races unless they are gnarly. Just FYI.
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sdjohn wrote:
Since you're painting, it may not be a useful tip - but honestly a lot of people will change the bearing and leave the races unless they are gnarly. Just FYI.
the upper is pretty gnarly, figured while i've got it pulled apart would probably be good to tackle. i'll probably worry about replacing them AFTER paint, then i won't have to worry about masking/cleaning those areas as much.
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more progress to get ready to paint. I made sure to pull some cord through with the harness and cables. did one for the headset stuff and the area behind the horn cover. still need to remove the floorboard rivets. any hints on the drill bit size for those? the gas tank area is in pretty good shape, might need some rust jelly in some spots and I'll probably brush some primer over those areas. the fender light contacts on the fender and body all have good continuity so no need to replace those!

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Welcome to the madness.

To remove the floor rail rivets use a chisel. Search the forum for how to do it. You basically turn it upside down and cut the heads off the rivets underneath. Piece of cake.

I am also currently in the process of restoring a 1980 P200: New addition to the collection - Now What?. Need to update that.

The forum has loads of knowledgeable and helpful folk. Good luck!
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Is using the peen rivets along the outer/visible areas an aesthetics thing? Or is there a technical reason? If I could just use pop rivets on all the floorboard runners that would be a heck of a lot easier!
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I think they are overall tighter fit and keep on their places better. Also there is no ugly "ball" hanging off when using peen rivets.

It's an easy to learn skill and you won't even think about using pop rivets on the runners after you learn it.
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Yes, very easy to do. Great video on how to do this on Robots channel. Basically, just push the head of the rivet and tap, tap, tap the end. Need to cut it back so it's not too long. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5LReCuulPQ

I use pop rivets on the bottom rails with a washer. I think that is also on that same video.
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I turned the scooter over and ground the rivets off with a dremel after putting a piece of tape over the rivet to protect the paint. Then I punched them through. You can also use small bolts with self locking nuts. If you use pop rivets, you still can peen the other side flat. But give the solid rivets a try. Just takes a little practice to get the hang of it. Lots of soft well placed taps until you get in the groove of it.
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thanks for the chisel suggestion, that worked great! I'll probably do the pop rivet + washer and peen rivets where they can been seen. i'll give it a try!

one big question i have is how do i work around the original manufacturer's decals? i can knock the overspray and overlap paint off, but would i just mask it up real well, prime, and paint?

another question i have is, what holes should be on the back fender. before i start patching up all the holes on the back i want to try and figure out what should and shouldn't be there. I have a new euro tail light coming in so i can make sure those are correct. There are some holes from a luggage rack that i'd like to patch up. without the US light mount, i'll have to figure out the US plate mount, suggestions?

more progress:

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Holy smokes- Sorry I havent chimed in- I JUST finished my 1980P and went through all of this.

You will NEED 4 holes for the US taillight- three for bolts and one for wires.

Sometimes there are two more towards the bottom for the rear "skirt' mudflap. The license plate goes on the taillight bracket with two bolts.

There was a summer of citrus, should this be a summer of P?
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Also, 2nd ave scooters in PHX makes the stickers, so you can order them. (The metallic emissions and vin ones) and they are not too pricey. much easier and cleaner than trying to mask/preserve the originals.
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dsnyder586 wrote:
Also, 2nd ave scooters in PHX makes the stickers, so you can order them. (The metallic emissions and vin ones) and they are not too pricey. much easier and cleaner than trying to mask/preserve the originals.
Nice, thanks! this will make things much easier. I'll order them before I start stripping them off
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dsnyder586 wrote:
Holy smokes- Sorry I havent chimed in- I JUST finished my 1980P and went through all of this.

You will NEED 4 holes for the US taillight- three for bolts and one for wires.

Sometimes there are two more towards the bottom for the rear "skirt' mudflap. The license plate goes on the taillight bracket with two bolts.

There was a summer of citrus, should this be a summer of P?
i wasn't intending on using the US taillight, ordered a euro style one to figure out which of those to keep. in addition, there are two square holes at the very bottom vertical bit, those seem like i should keep
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Also Also, I tried a "new" trick and shockingly it worked. I sprayed my rubber pieces with silicone and put them in ziplock bags for a few days.

WOW. All but one became pliable and useable again. This from a bike that was outside in the desert for YEARS.
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ScottSA wrote:
i wasn't intending on using the US taillight, ordered a euro style one to figure out which of those to keep. in addition, there are two square holes at the very bottom vertical bit, those seem like i should keep
Ya, the bottom ones are factory for the mudflap. I have an extra you can have- it has a tiny split, but definitely useable. PM me. I also have a piaggio emblem for the horncast if yours is missing.
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