Modern Vespa

Great job !!

Cable and wire routing inside the headset:

Push in that throttle cable end

Having a cable trunnion on the throttle cable on that end is weird. I've never seen that before.

"Having a cable trunnion on the throttle cable on that end is weird. I've never seen that before."

https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Cable-Bits/TH-PB

Large carb setups will most likely use that cable setup…

I feel it's the easiest to adjust and get the exact length and tension you want.

Wouldn't that go at the carb end and not in the hole of the throttle pulley? I've always only seen a round cast head with the cable end embedded in it.

Goes on the throttle end.

With the cast cable, you can't cut to length (well you can, but it's a bit of work…)

With the cable in your image, the inner and outer are fixed pretty much.

With the trunnion, some folks solder the cable too for extra strength.

Interesting. On my small frame, I use a gear cable with a small trunnion at the carb. The cast end goes in the pulley hole in the headset.

The GS/SS are fixed length inner and outer with a larger cast end for the pulley and a small cast end for the carb end.

I use a pinch nut in the same basic setup, but with a larger pulley on both my smallie and my GL. You need the larger radius to get enough throw for the big carbs, and as others noted, it's the only way to get any meaningful adjustment.

Also, on the largeframe, it's an extra-long throttle cable so it'll reach.

I just prefer to use the cables that have a cast small nipple on the carb side. On a smallie SHB it's ok to use big clamp nipple, but on "real" carbs there is no room for it.

But boy oh boy. Goodies are finally here
Crank and something to mount on both ends.

Meanwhile on the budget 200 side. Got the Polinibox to replace the stock one.


Is it just me and my old Malossi that has the exhaust stub slightly angled more towards outside or is it a common thing?


Even pushing by hand is not enough to line up the mounting holes.


Introduced the exhaust to my angle grinder and took a wedge out to get the box high enough. Now it's just matter of welding it back together.


I'll likely have to also fit a slimmer spring for the cemter stand return...

Spring is not the only problem. The support of center stand is also fouling on the exhaust. Maybe it's just time to order that side stand.


Put on couple tacks, removed and laid some bead to fill the cut. Threw the box back in and checked that there is no tension before tightening the clamp.

You could move the center stand to forward of that rib with an MRP bracket (SIP) or make your own. More stable with the stand at that position as well.

I made some brackets like this for my GL, as well. Works great.

What's the top bracket attach to on the frame?

It doesn't attach to the frame there. The original center stand bolts hold the bracket. Stand and spring to bracket only.

I went the easy route and simply bought the MRP bracket for my Allstate. You can scroll to page 4 to see it in the thread below...

Project 61 Allstate 200 (now 208) with 2020 updates (Page 4)

Nice! Did you drill extra holes for the mount?

For the little stainless "exhaust spring hanger" bracket? No, both the MRP plate and the SIP bracket both had multiple holes predrilled in them. I did have to oval out a hole a little bit so that they would line up though.

Ah got you… from the photo looked like 2 separate pieces

In the frame. The plate mounts up on original stand holes, but are there new holes needed on the other side of the rib?

There are no additional new holes to be made. The front part of the plate just kinda "floats" against the floorboard. And that's why i installed a thin rubber sheet in between the floating portion of the plate on my project (you have to look close in my pictures to see it...if you can even see it at all).

That's just the thing I had in my mind. It's kinda bad place to just float around since sand will get between plate and the frame. Along vibration it will rub off the paint and recipe for rust is ready.

Center stand is essential for looks but I think I'm starting to lean towards a side stand. Pun intended

Since the ready re-location plates seem to be kind of half-ready products, I found the motivation to fab my own. Found a nice little profile plate from my scrap metal pin that originates from a CT device cabinet where it was used to mount an UPS.

Measure, cut, punch and drill couple holes


Dry-fit, rinse and repeat


Nice room for captive nuts.

Got the budget bigblock on a dyno yesterday. Did not have the transmission info on hand so curve is relational to roller speed.

Rolled the scoot to the shed so I can start the engine swap despite the rain.


Budget bigblock was rather quicly disconnected and drained of oil at the same time.


Hoisting the back from the ceiling made removing the engine a breeze.


And this is the stage I got today. It's always a surprise how much time is sunk on little details like rubber-mounting the CDI-coil, tapping the brake shield mounting holes, running new throttle cable with longer sleeve...


It also became clear that the travel of the original throttle roller is not going to cut it with the larger carbs. Looks like I have to mod the roller for longer throw to get the slide all the way up.

Tacked the layers together so they will not separate after I cut them off


Cutted off, piece added between and tacked again to see if it fits


Short roller now long


The final fit was so close that I had to grind some powdercoat off since the roller just barely touched the headset after tightening the holder bolt.


Ran some wires for the DC rectifier and mounted the thingy in the side compartment. Couple kicks and it's alive!

Today it was the turn of ignition timing. Initially I just set the stator plate in the middle to get it running.

I don't really trust any markings that are already on the flywheel and stator plate so I engraved my own mark on the rotor after finding the TDC. Also added a piece of reflector tape to get a reading with my laser tachometer.


Engraving marks also on the block side to for TDC and 20 BTDC


Set the idle to ~4000rpm from the throttle cable adjust nipple with help of tachometer.


Initial advance was way too hight at around 25 degrees. After one coarse adjust and a little touch up after that I ended up at preferred 18 degrees @ 4000rpm just to be on the safe side.


Started off with stator plate at the center, ended up here. Hope this image can be a starting point for someone else fitting a Vape Sport too. Also added an engraved line on the block and some marker to show where I was initially happy.


Then it was time for some BRAAAP

Sounds great.

Pedestrian compared to the smallie though… lol

Summer has gone by in a flash (again) and this thing has been just on the road without problems and once in a car show as eye candy.


Also got on a dyno. RPM pickup did not work and I think I botched the total gear ratio calculation so the RPM range is likely not accurate. Might also be running a tad rich.


There has been an annoying running of fuel from the foam air filter along the right side floor panel all the way up to brake pedal. Made a small mod to confirm it is that and not leak from exhaust or head.


Previously the filter was just zip-tied on the carb but now the tube runs inside the frame. It is funny how the intake growl now comes out of the headset opening at the front. Overall it is more silent now but there is also a noticeable penalty on engine power. Might see if I can jet around it or just ditch the whole Keihin PE28 and replace it with PWK 33.


After the mod floorboard has been clean so theory confirmed.

If it's a touring build, you theoretically want the smallest carb you can get away with for maximizing range. Theoretically.

It's been my experience that finding an air filter that doesn't choke off the carb is damn near impossible. On fast bikes, I just don't run one. I'm considering what my air filter options might be on my Lammy, but I may have to cut the cowl to get enough airflow, at which point I'd just put a big ol' pod filter on it and go on.

Why have a filter in there?
Can't imagine anything getting to the carb from there aside from dust.

Btw I've seen a few big hp builders open these holes on the oldies. I'm not sure if that helps with a bench seat(?).

Agreed. The only time I've ever sucked anything noticeable into my intake, it was a screw off the Venturi, so it was already past the airbox filter at that point anyway.

Dust is the enemy I'm trying to combat here. Every time I go on a ride means total of 9km on a dirt road

Also when the weather is best for riding, the amount of dust is also the worst.

I'm also trying to avoid frame mods as much as possible. Though this was also the case with the white smallie until I lopped a big chunk off to make room for the Parmakit intake

Can't say there is too much room for a big carb

You gotta choose...do you want a large carb, or do you want a pristine frame/paint under the cowls?

I will say that my largeframes have all fit a PWK34, even if I had to tilt them outwards a little to make it happen.

Next, you can deal with the fuel nipple angle/location. It's going to be VERY prone to airlock due to the inevitable overhead loop in the fuel line, and probably a tendency to not feed when you're below a half tank, so you're going to need a fuel pump or plan to stop and buy gas 4x more than you do now (2x for the carb, 2x for not being able to flow from the bottom half of the tank).

Yeah. Slight tilt should do the trick with snakehead style slide cap. Fuel pump is almost unavoidable also after this point I'm afraid.

But power-junkie has to have his fix eh?

LOL! Yep.

I'm able to run a PWK36 without a pump on my smallie, but the tank sits over the carb, so it has plenty of head height, even when almost empty.

The largeframe has the tank next to the carb once you move away from the SI, so you're kind've forced into the fuel pump there.

If you have the means and the will, converting the intake nipple to be horizontal is a worthwhile endeavor. It'll get rid of that big air lock in the arch, which tends to cause fuel starvation issues even with a pump.

Started to do some maintenance on Orange. Found some witness marks of coil bumping into the cowl. White wire insulation is cracked so now is the prime time to address that.


Malossi ø34 intake rubber is in and carb fits nice inside it. Fan shroud has to be modified to make it sit low enough though.


Tight, but looks like it will fit in.


Regarding fuel pump, Facet 60104 looks nice:
https://races-shop.com/low-pressure-fuel-pumps/1330-low-pressure-fuel-pump-facet-posi-flow-01-028-bar.html

Anyone running electric pump here?