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Hooked
VBA1T/Px200 iris
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Great job !!
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Cable and wire routing inside the headset:
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
@grumpnut avatar
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Hooked
'58 VBA
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Push in that throttle cable end
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Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
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Having a cable trunnion on the throttle cable on that end is weird. I've never seen that before.
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"Having a cable trunnion on the throttle cable on that end is weird. I've never seen that before."

https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Cable-Bits/TH-PB
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nomadinsiam wrote:
Having a cable trunnion on the throttle cable on that end is weird. I've never seen that before.
Large carb setups will most likely use that cable setup…

I feel it's the easiest to adjust and get the exact length and tension you want.
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Wouldn't that go at the carb end and not in the hole of the throttle pulley? I've always only seen a round cast head with the cable end embedded in it.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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nomadinsiam wrote:
Wouldn't that go at the carb end and not in the hole of the throttle pulley? I've always only seen a round cast head with the cable end embedded in it.
Goes on the throttle end.

With the cast cable, you can't cut to length (well you can, but it's a bit of work…)

With the cable in your image, the inner and outer are fixed pretty much.

With the trunnion, some folks solder the cable too for extra strength.
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Interesting. On my small frame, I use a gear cable with a small trunnion at the carb. The cast end goes in the pulley hole in the headset.

The GS/SS are fixed length inner and outer with a larger cast end for the pulley and a small cast end for the carb end.
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
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I use a pinch nut in the same basic setup, but with a larger pulley on both my smallie and my GL. You need the larger radius to get enough throw for the big carbs, and as others noted, it's the only way to get any meaningful adjustment.

Also, on the largeframe, it's an extra-long throttle cable so it'll reach.
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I just prefer to use the cables that have a cast small nipple on the carb side. On a smallie SHB it's ok to use big clamp nipple, but on "real" carbs there is no room for it.

But boy oh boy. Goodies are finally here
Crank and something to mount on both ends.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
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Meanwhile on the budget 200 side. Got the Polinibox to replace the stock one.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Is it just me and my old Malossi that has the exhaust stub slightly angled more towards outside or is it a common thing?
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Even pushing by hand is not enough to line up the mounting holes.
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Introduced the exhaust to my angle grinder and took a wedge out to get the box high enough. Now it's just matter of welding it back together.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I'll likely have to also fit a slimmer spring for the cemter stand return...
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Spring is not the only problem. The support of center stand is also fouling on the exhaust. Maybe it's just time to order that side stand.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Put on couple tacks, removed and laid some bead to fill the cut. Threw the box back in and checked that there is no tension before tightening the clamp.
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Molto Verboso
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FINYoshi wrote:
Spring is not the only problem. The support of center stand is also fouling on the exhaust. Maybe it's just time to order that side stand.
You could move the center stand to forward of that rib with an MRP bracket (SIP) or make your own. More stable with the stand at that position as well.
Included a side stand on mine.
Included a side stand on mine.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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Ray8 wrote:
You could move the center stand to forward of that rib with an MRP bracket (SIP) or make your own. More stable with the stand at that position as well.
I made some brackets like this for my GL, as well. Works great.
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Ray8 wrote:
You could move the center stand to forward of that rib with an MRP bracket (SIP) or make your own. More stable with the stand at that position as well.
What's the top bracket attach to on the frame?
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Molto Verboso
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108 wrote:
What's the top bracket attach to on the frame?
It doesn't attach to the frame there. The original center stand bolts hold the bracket. Stand and spring to bracket only.
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FINYoshi wrote:
Spring is not the only problem. The support of center stand is also fouling on the exhaust. Maybe it's just time to order that side stand.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Put on couple tacks, removed and laid some bead to fill the cut. Threw the box back in and checked that there is no tension before tightening the clamp.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
I went the easy route and simply bought the MRP bracket for my Allstate. You can scroll to page 4 to see it in the thread below...

Project 61 Allstate 200 (now 208) with 2020 updates (Page 4)
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whodatschrome wrote:
I went the easy route and simply bought the MRP bracket for my Allstate. You can scroll to page 4 to see it in the thread below...

Project 61 Allstate 200 (now 208) with 2020 updates (Page 4)
Nice! Did you drill extra holes for the mount?
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FINYoshi wrote:
Nice! Did you drill extra holes for the mount?
For the little stainless "exhaust spring hanger" bracket? No, both the MRP plate and the SIP bracket both had multiple holes predrilled in them. I did have to oval out a hole a little bit so that they would line up though.
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Ray8 wrote:
It doesn't attach to the frame there. The original center stand bolts hold the bracket. Stand and spring to bracket only.
Ah got you… from the photo looked like 2 separate pieces
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whodatschrome wrote:
For the little stainless "exhaust spring hanger" bracket? No, both the MRP plate and the SIP bracket both had multiple holes predrilled in them. I did have to oval out a hole a little bit so that they would line up though.
In the frame. The plate mounts up on original stand holes, but are there new holes needed on the other side of the rib?
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FINYoshi wrote:
In the frame. The plate mounts up on original stand holes, but are there new holes needed on the other side of the rib?
There are no additional new holes to be made. The front part of the plate just kinda "floats" against the floorboard. And that's why i installed a thin rubber sheet in between the floating portion of the plate on my project (you have to look close in my pictures to see it...if you can even see it at all).
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That's just the thing I had in my mind. It's kinda bad place to just float around since sand will get between plate and the frame. Along vibration it will rub off the paint and recipe for rust is ready.

Center stand is essential for looks but I think I'm starting to lean towards a side stand. Pun intended
⬆️    About 1 month elapsed    ⬇️
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Since the ready re-location plates seem to be kind of half-ready products, I found the motivation to fab my own. Found a nice little profile plate from my scrap metal pin that originates from a CT device cabinet where it was used to mount an UPS.

Measure, cut, punch and drill couple holes
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Dry-fit, rinse and repeat
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Nice room for captive nuts.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
⬆️    About 7 months elapsed    ⬇️
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Got the budget bigblock on a dyno yesterday. Did not have the transmission info on hand so curve is relational to roller speed.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
⬆️    About 3 months elapsed    ⬇️
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Rolled the scoot to the shed so I can start the engine swap despite the rain.
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Budget bigblock was rather quicly disconnected and drained of oil at the same time.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Hoisting the back from the ceiling made removing the engine a breeze.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

And this is the stage I got today. It's always a surprise how much time is sunk on little details like rubber-mounting the CDI-coil, tapping the brake shield mounting holes, running new throttle cable with longer sleeve...
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

It also became clear that the travel of the original throttle roller is not going to cut it with the larger carbs. Looks like I have to mod the roller for longer throw to get the slide all the way up.
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Tacked the layers together so they will not separate after I cut them off
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Cutted off, piece added between and tacked again to see if it fits
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Short roller now long
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

The final fit was so close that I had to grind some powdercoat off since the roller just barely touched the headset after tightening the holder bolt.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Ran some wires for the DC rectifier and mounted the thingy in the side compartment. Couple kicks and it's alive!
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
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Today it was the turn of ignition timing. Initially I just set the stator plate in the middle to get it running.

I don't really trust any markings that are already on the flywheel and stator plate so I engraved my own mark on the rotor after finding the TDC. Also added a piece of reflector tape to get a reading with my laser tachometer.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Engraving marks also on the block side to for TDC and 20 BTDC
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Set the idle to ~4000rpm from the throttle cable adjust nipple with help of tachometer.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Initial advance was way too hight at around 25 degrees. After one coarse adjust and a little touch up after that I ended up at preferred 18 degrees @ 4000rpm just to be on the safe side.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Started off with stator plate at the center, ended up here. Hope this image can be a starting point for someone else fitting a Vape Sport too. Also added an engraved line on the block and some marker to show where I was initially happy.
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Then it was time for some BRAAAP
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Sounds great.

Pedestrian compared to the smallie though… lol
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