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My Fly 150 with EFI will randomly stumble and cough then often die mid-ride. Idles ok, and all electricals seem ok, no loose connections or short outs against metal. 8500 miles, maybe could use valves adjusted , but would that kill an engine mid ride ? Where and how to access fuel filter ( the tank on this year is in the floor).
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Check the valves first. If the valves haven't been adjusted before this then they are well overdue.
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Filter would be in the tank, attached to your fuel pump.

Would the valves cause an issue mid ride? No. You'd see issues on startup or it'd never run right. Should they be maintained, yes!
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Thanks...but I really needed also to know how to drop the tank and get to the filter...I figured it was in-tank, since I didn't see one in-line.

Under the floorboard there is a circular plate with I believe 6 small bolts, which I wondered if that is a way to lift the pump ( and filter ?) out for service.
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Cant tell you about the access hole in the bottom. Can you find a parts diagram online? Maybe that'll show what goes in there?
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Molto Verboso
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FlyBoyJIm wrote:
Thanks...but I really needed also to know how to drop the tank and get to the filter...I figured it was in-tank, since I didn't see one in-line.

Under the floorboard there is a circular plate with I believe 6 small bolts, which I wondered if that is a way to lift the pump ( and filter ?) out for service.
I think it is. See this drawing: https://www.easyparts.nl/explodedview/Genuine-parts-Piaggio-Fly-150-IE-3V-E3-2013-2017-(NAFTA)-Fuel-pump-m25845-d190854 (it is a dutch site but it is about the drawing)

I do not see a fuel filter, but it could be it is integrated in the fuel pump.

A question: why do you suspect the fuel filter to be the source of your problem?
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Peter..Thanks.
Mitch's YT vids are really good, and I had already removed those panels in order to see the circular plate.
I'm giving a photo here , so maybe a Vespa or Fly owner with a floor gas tank will recognize and give a definitive answer. It's obvious this is the main fuel hose, but can I just easily lift the pump and filter out in one piece ? No springs or goblins jump out...lol.???
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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Peter...For some reason I missed your link to the feul pump for sale...that was a great help !!
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Hi FlyBoyJim, I have a similar problem with the same fly150ie. How did you go with this?

Piaggio Fly 150 3Vie that is cutting out on idle or mid riding, trying to figure out what is going on with it. Spark good, tank full, starts and runs but intermittently misses/stalls on idle or dies while riding. Battery is a bit weak but still starts it. Rides fine with or without battery, just keeps cutting out regardless. Checked side stand switch seems to be fine. Guessing ECU/fuel pump/filter/injector/coil. Heard it might be a common problem on these so maybe someone knows the obvious culprit?
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MJRally wrote:
Would the valves cause an issue mid ride? No. You'd see issues on startup or it'd never run right. Should they be maintained, yes!
You're pulling crap out of thin air here. If you have a tight exhaust valve, it tightens more as the engine gets hot. This will absolutely shut the bike down.
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always start with the basics: things like making sure the air filter is good, the airbox is sealed, there are no cracks or leaks in the intake system. check the spark plug, especially if it has the screw in style nipple, check the HT cap these can wear and crack over time, check the HT lead and wires.

from there move on to things like checking the injection system: is the injector cracked, is the wiring intact, are the hoses in good condition, does the injector operate/spray properly. check and clean the idle bypass on the throttle body. ensure that the fuel pump is operating properly. check the pump relay for signs of corrosion or that it is properly connected.

make sure that your tank is venting properly. ensure that the fuel is top quality and good condition-- not stale or has a bunch of water in it.

check your valves, make sure they're within spec.

always double check your battery. make sure it is topped up fully charged and then test the charging system. the injected bikes are sensitive to battery voltage.

after all of that, then start digging deeper.

if you haven't established a baseline that all of the peripherals are operating as they should then you're just chasing ghosts.

but before all of that, if you haven't been in for a software check/update that should be the first stop. doing so may save you a lot of work for very little money.
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Abner_Bjorn wrote:
You're pulling crap out of thin air here. If you have a tight exhaust valve, it tightens more as the engine gets hot. This will absolutely shut the bike down.
I'm sitting next to a marine diesel engineer and I confirmed with him, valve specs loosen as the motor heats up. Where did you get your info?
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Lived it on two different Genuine Buddy 2-valve engines. Would run fine for 45 minutes, then would die and not start until the engine cooled. Pulled the valve cover and the exhaust gap was .001. Set them both at .008. Never had a problem again.
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Jesus! .001"?!? How would it even start let alone run like that?
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MJRally wrote:
I'm sitting next to a marine diesel engineer and I confirmed with him, valve specs loosen as the motor heats up. Where did you get your info?
Isn't the whole point of the gap to compensate for the valve stem expanding to fill said gap when it gets hot? Hence typically exhaust gap is larger because it gets hotter.
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znomit wrote:
Isn't the whole point of the gap to compensate for the valve stem expanding to fill said gap when it gets hot? Hence typically exhaust gap is larger because it gets hotter.
Oh man you guys made this man's day! 20 minutes later he finally explained valve lash is set for compression ratios and performance, not heat expansion. It's a factor, but not the factor!

Valve and head heat expansion are already factored by the design and the metallurgy used.
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Thanks to all who have put in their help here.

Here in the Chicago metro area there is a 7 week backlog at a dealer, so I will have a look at

A./ Fuel pump / gunk in the tank ??

B./ Injector cleaning

C./ Valve gaps

I think I can manage those...A and B ...then C. if not a or b

The stumble and then cutout can be in under 1 mile, or in 8 miles, so I knida doubt heat is the key.

It's like you suddenly cut the throttle to ZERO , or an electrical short. Some times will start again in 2 minutes but run really poorly , some times will take 10 mins., run poor or run fair.

You guys are great - but don't fight ...LOL.
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FlyBoyJIm wrote:
Peter..Thanks.
Mitch's YT vids are really good, and I had already removed those panels in order to see the circular plate.
I'm giving a photo here , so maybe a Vespa or Fly owner with a floor gas tank will recognize and give a definitive answer. It's obvious this is the main fuel hose, but can I just easily lift the pump and filter out in one piece ? No springs or goblins jump out...lol.???
Yes, the black hose at the left is definitely the fuel hose. If you follow that hose from the tank to the injector, is there any fuel filter in the line?
(On the exploded views in the link I sent over I could not find a fuel filter anywhere)
If there is not, then the filter must be in the tank integrated in the fuel pump.

You can remove the bolts and simply lift the pump out. Check the exploded view in the link I sent. There is nothing funny there. It will be the surprise if you find there a fuel filter or not.
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FlyBoyJIm wrote:
(...)
The stumble and then cutout can be in under 1 mile, or in 8 miles, so I knida doubt heat is the key.

It's like you suddenly cut the throttle to ZERO , or an electrical short. Some times will start again in 2 minutes but run really poorly , some times will take 10 mins., run poor or run fair.

You guys are great - but don't fight ...LOL.
One thing: forget about the valves. Valves will not suddenly do funny things after a few miles.

What you describe is:
- or lack of fuel
- or lack of spark

It is not difficult to test what of both it is.

You have it already a bit disassembled. Is it easy to get to the spark plug and spark plug cap? If not then take a bit more pieces off so you have easy access.

Take a spare spark plug with you and just ride the scooter until it dies. Remove the spark plug cap and mount it on the spare spark plug, hold that to mass and start the engine. If you see the sparks it is most probably indeed a lack of fuel.
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I'd try the above before diving in much deeper.

siphon out what's in the tank to eliminate the possibility of bad fuel. then run the highest octane you can get your hands on with a fuel injection system cleaner (chevron makes a good one, use the extra in your car!). then ride and report.

still the same. go after the valves.

I had the same thing happen with a bike that had a cracked spark plug. you couldn't tell but when I removed it the whole thing just fell apart. so double check that and the HT cap.

good luck!
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greasy125 wrote:
I'd try the above before diving in much deeper.

siphon out what's in the tank to eliminate the possibility of bad fuel. then run the highest octane you can get your hands on with a fuel injection system cleaner (chevron makes a good one, use the extra in your car!). then ride and report.

still the same. go after the valves.

I had the same thing happen with a bike that had a cracked spark plug. you couldn't tell but when I removed it the whole thing just fell apart. so double check that and the HT cap.

good luck!
I indeed once had a spark plug that had internally somewhere a short cut. It is always a good idea to keep a spare spark plug of the correct type close at hand.

FlyBoyJim:
If you have a spare spark plug of the correct type, then first of all mount that one in your engine and check how the engine performs.
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MJRally wrote:
Oh man you guys made this man's day! 20 minutes later he finally explained valve lash is set for compression ratios and performance, not heat expansion. It's a factor, but not the factor!

Valve and head heat expansion are already factored by the design and the metallurgy used.
What?
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znomit wrote:
What?
Huh?
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MJRally wrote:
Huh?
That's a kinda arm wavy response.
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znomit wrote:
That's a kinda arm wavy response.
You asked a question and I asked a licensed professional for an answer. He gave me a technical one which I typed out.

Did that not answer your question?
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Let's keep the posts constructive. We are just trying to trouble shoot our cheap plastic wanna be vespas after which we'll then share the solutions. Those who will read this in the future who have the same model bike will have an easier time navigating to the cause in this thread if we stay on track. Very grateful for all the input. Let's just all agree that valve tolerances matter. VTM 😄 now get some shirts printed.
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Hi, did you ever find out the cause of the issue?
My scooter does the same thing. But it doesn't happen if I use additive in the fuel.
Thanks
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dbomfim wrote:
Hi, did you ever find out the cause of the issue?
My scooter does the same thing. But it doesn't happen if I use additive in the fuel.
Thanks
interesting.

have you gone through multiple tanks with this working strategy of using an additive?
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Robot over at Vespa of San Diego had that problem and he claims it was the computer. God only knows what that would cost.
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docjones wrote:
Robot over at Vespa of San Diego had that problem and he claims it was the computer. God only knows what that would cost.
looking at pics of a fly 150 from 2013 shows the ecu is combined with the throttle body (like in a gts300 etc) as a single unit. some people refer to this combined unit as the ecu or computer and some as the throttle body. so if robot replaced this unit then what I was talking about above could apply.
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