Tue, 08 Nov 2022 22:16:13 +0000

Sergeant at Arms
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
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Sergeant at Arms
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
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Tue, 08 Nov 2022 22:16:13 +0000 linkquote
apologies I should have clarified.

set your TDC, verify by the flywheel mark AND the valve indication on the head & crown wheel. mark it in two places AND THEN DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES ROTATE THE MOTOR.

the worst that can happen is that you'll have to retime it.

anyway, post up pics of the cam and rockers. let's see how they look.
Tue, 08 Nov 2022 23:12:20 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 LX150 2015 GTS 2013 BV 350
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
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Tue, 08 Nov 2022 23:12:20 +0000 linkquote
I think I'd assumed not to touch it, but my brain sometimes has the attention of a 2 year old.

Okay, photo time!

Cams feel perfectly smooth, showing a bit of dulling of the shine.
One of the lobes on the shaft has a slight roughness when running your fingernail over it...


Never mind the hair...



Tue, 08 Nov 2022 23:31:14 +0000

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Tue, 08 Nov 2022 23:31:14 +0000 linkquote
fledermaus wrote:
From my initial inspection (watching it leak)-FWIW seemed most of the fluid was accumulating around the exhaust port- and dry inspection on the bench, I'm going with just the head gasket. Guess it helps I'm hovering around my peak comfort level as well....

Didn't get parts yet as I thought I'd wait to see what I found and decided to do at this point, so a bit slow for a few days.....also need to pick up a paint pen and maybe indulge in a few more bits for the toolkit.
Good idea just going for the top gasket, worst case scenario a good practice run for a bigger job but from what your guru said you probably won't have to revisit the lower gasket.

I think it's cool that you are taking on this job and agree with your statement about "learning the anatomy" of our scooters as we dig in deeper with maintenance and repairs.

Any idea what a job like this would cost all total, parts, labor, materials at a dealer or scooter repair shop?
Wed, 09 Nov 2022 01:12:52 +0000

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Wed, 09 Nov 2022 01:12:52 +0000 linkquote
Without having the parts in hand its hard to say for sure, but its looks pretty normal to me. Is there a reason you are disassembling the head? That is totally unnecessary for a head gasket replacement, or even a valve lash check.
Wed, 09 Nov 2022 01:49:06 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
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Wed, 09 Nov 2022 01:49:06 +0000 linkquote
kmev wrote:
Without having the parts in hand its hard to say for sure, but its looks pretty normal to me. Is there a reason you are disassembling the head? That is totally unnecessary for a head gasket replacement, or even a valve lash check.
Probably out of ignorance....I was following Robot's engine rebuild, assumed everything up to that point was needed to get to the gasket. TBH it wasn't that hard to pull the cams....perhaps as I'd had a couple of low oil episodes some years back, I was curious too....plus Robot's videos lead you down a certain path. If it ran to total disassembly I'd be sitting in the middle of a pile of parts by Saturday.
Wed, 09 Nov 2022 04:56:01 +0000

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Wed, 09 Nov 2022 04:56:01 +0000 linkquote
He's not disassembling the head. The head contains the valves, and he is not touching those. The camshaft and rockers have to be removed to get the head off to change the head gasket. They are not part of the head.

If there is galling on the camshaft lobe, there is almost certainly wear on the rocker. Is it enough to replace them? I faced the same question, and decided that there was enough wear to make it worth changing. At 20,000ish miles, mine wasn't going to make it another 20,000 miles. I wanted to do the job like I expected it to last the next 50,000 miles.

My cam shaft looked like yours, and my rocker looked like this:



Wed, 09 Nov 2022 05:04:15 +0000

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Wed, 09 Nov 2022 05:04:15 +0000 linkquote
rdhood wrote:
The camshaft and rockers have to be removed to get the head off to change the head gasket. They are not part of the head.
Sorry, but that is a gross misunderstanding of how this engine is assembled. The camshaft and rockers absolutely DO NOT need to be removed to remove the head. If you want to inspect them, fine, but all you need to do is remove the cam chain, head bolts, and one coolant hose. That's it.
Wed, 09 Nov 2022 05:16:54 +0000

Sergeant at Arms
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
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Wed, 09 Nov 2022 05:16:54 +0000 linkquote
I'd replace that cam, and the rockers, personally.

the rockers *might* be okay, but I like to keep them as matched sets if possible.

more than likely the follower has wear (like a dip in it). the cups on the adjusters look slightly suspect, but I can't pass judgement without having them in my hands and a straight edge.

could you knock that all back together and run it, sure. I just don't know how long it would go before getting brown and round.
Wed, 09 Nov 2022 05:26:33 +0000

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Wed, 09 Nov 2022 05:26:33 +0000 linkquote
CaliforniaCruising wrote:
Any idea what a job like this would cost all total, parts, labor, materials at a dealer or scooter repair shop?
depending on labor rate somewhere in the 800~1200 range all in would be my guess.

I just did one and the bill came to a tick under 7 all said and done.
Wed, 09 Nov 2022 13:55:20 +0000

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Wed, 09 Nov 2022 13:55:20 +0000 linkquote
kmev wrote:
Sorry, but that is a gross misunderstanding of how this engine is assembled. The camshaft and rockers absolutely DO NOT need to be removed to remove the head. If you want to inspect them, fine, but all you need to do is remove the cam chain, head bolts, and one coolant hose. That's it.
Sure, you can just pop off the gear with the chain to remove the head, and avoid taking off the cam shaft and rockers. But why? His bike has 20,000 miles on it. He previously had a water pump go that turned his oil to chocolate milk. It is self evident why it is best practice to NOT do what you are suggesting.... he found galling on the cam shaft. In fact , the ONLY way I would do what you are suggesting is if the bike blew a head gasket in the first 3000-7000 miles and did not overheat. You are only saving 10 MINUTES by not taking those out and inspecting those parts. I wouldn't call it a gross misunderstanding of anything.

Further, I repeat that those parts are not part of the cylinder head. Purchase a new cylinder head and see what you get. OP is not taking the cylinder head apart.

And I'm with Greasy. I would replace the cam shaft and rocker. Its another $200-$300 for the camshaft and $150-$200 each for the rockers . If only one lobe is galled, I would replace only the rocker doing the galling, but that is me.

And speaking of chocolate milk, there is always the possibility that when the water pump failed, the head overheated and slightly warped, and that is the reason for the subsequent head gasket failure. If it blows again in 1500-3000 miles, the head is highly suspect. I bought a low miles (under 10,000) used head for $50 and sent it to ScooterWest for inspection (about $80 IIRC). The OP might strongly consider packing up that cylinder head and sending it to them. It's another $80 to have it done, but it sure gives peace of mind and it beats pulling the engine again.
Wed, 09 Nov 2022 15:14:17 +0000

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Wed, 09 Nov 2022 15:14:17 +0000 linkquote
I asked the OP why he was disassembling the head. All of what you state above are valid reasons for doing so, but they certainly do not NEED to be removed to replace a head gasket, as you stated.

And in any overhead cam engine, all of those components are definitely parts of the head. Purchase configuration is irrelevant.

I'm not going to argue these points any further, I just want to correct the misinformation for others who may read or need this information. The majority of people here looking to replace a head gasket on their own have never removed a head on any engine. I recommend against making it more complicated than it needs to be for someone who has trepidation on doing it the first time.
Wed, 09 Nov 2022 17:17:35 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
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Wed, 09 Nov 2022 17:17:35 +0000 linkquote
Okay, guess I jumped the gun on my parts order. Anything else I should be looking into, replacing while I'm at it? Ordered new O-rings for the head studs, assuming they get replaced? The video was from a complete tear down. Are cylinder stud nuts reusable, or should they be replaced?

Looks like you all are in for a bigger adventure, lol.

Thanks for all the comments and advice. I know it's not so easy not having your hands on something, but then again if you don't touch it you don't have ownership so it's easier to walk away when things go south.

In the meantime, as I have the rear brake off, I'm still not satisfied with it after changing fluid, so will play with that, bought sintered pads a while back just in case, and if I'm over 50% worn, they'll go in. Figured as long as I own them might as well enjoy them for the next 7-10 years.....

Taking care of a bit of underside rust as well, so keeping busy.
Wed, 09 Nov 2022 17:46:22 +0000

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Wed, 09 Nov 2022 17:46:22 +0000 linkquote
greasy125 wrote:
depending on labor rate somewhere in the 800~1200 range all in would be my guess.

I just did one and the bill came to a tick under 7 all said and done.
Thanks. This job looks a bit beyond my pay grade right now but am getting more comfortable and competent wrenching on the 150cc Vespas as time goes on.

Looking to get a used 300cc, can't decide whether to get a
new used 2020+ for $6-7kish range or a really clean 2012ish era for $4-5k range, finding some nice examples of both newer and older 300s trickling through.
Any suggestions?


This 2012 is what I'm coveting right now but I as much as I love wrenching and tinkering, I like riding a whole lot more

Wed, 09 Nov 2022 17:58:40 +0000

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Wed, 09 Nov 2022 17:58:40 +0000 linkquote
fledermaus wrote:
Are cylinder stud nuts reusable, or should they be replaced?
They are reusable BUT if you look at my pic of the grooved rocker above, you will also see a cylinder stud that just twisted off. I tried reusing/retorquing, and one failed. The thing is, if you have to replace a stud it becomes a bigger job. For your head gasket job, I would try retorquing the old studs (watch the ScooterWest video and note that there are different torque methods for old vs. new). If something twists off, THEN deep dive to the base gasket, take out all 4 studs, clean holes and install new studs and rebuild on up with new gaskets.
Thu, 10 Nov 2022 00:27:41 +0000

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Thu, 10 Nov 2022 00:27:41 +0000 linkquote
CaliforniaCruising wrote:
Thanks. This job looks a bit beyond my pay grade right now but am getting more comfortable and competent wrenching on the 150cc Vespas as time goes on.

Looking to get a used 300cc, can't decide whether to get a
new used 2020+ for $6-7kish range or a really clean 2012ish era for $4-5k range, finding some nice examples of both newer and older 300s trickling through.
Any suggestions?
I'll keep it short as to not thread hi-jack

it's a fairly straight forward job. I'll hesitate to say it's simple, but there's not a lot of ticky-tacky fiddly stuff to worry about. however, the attention to detail needs to be very on point. if you have room and tools and patience, can follow direction and understand a workshop manual the job is doable.

personally I'd go for the older bike. but a deal is a deal in my book!
Thu, 10 Nov 2022 00:29:30 +0000

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Thu, 10 Nov 2022 00:29:30 +0000 linkquote
rdhood wrote:
They are reusable BUT if you look at my pic of the grooved rocker above, you will also see a cylinder stud that just twisted off. I tried reusing/retorquing, and one failed. The thing is, if you have to replace a stud it becomes a bigger job. For your head gasket job, I would try retorquing the old studs (watch the ScooterWest video and note that there are different torque methods for old vs. new). If something twists off, THEN deep dive to the base gasket, take out all 4 studs, clean holes and install new studs and rebuild on up with new gaskets.
I'll second it.

reuse what you've got. pay close attention to the torque spec and pattern.

if something pops off, re-set and start again with fresh stuff. it's not like you gotta get it on the road immediately.
Thu, 10 Nov 2022 02:07:48 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 LX150 2015 GTS 2013 BV 350
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Thu, 10 Nov 2022 02:07:48 +0000 linkquote
greasy125 wrote:
it's not like you gotta get it on the road immediately.
You've got a point there. It's been stunningly beautiful and warm for early November so far but the party's almost over. We'll have a high of 34 on Sunday....and I don't think I'm one to wimp out too easily for weather, but, man, when you have excuses, you snatch them up.

Looked over the carnage tonight. Gotta say I feel pretty okay about things, and haven't even resorted to beer. I know reassembly isn't going to be a cakewalk, but with a bit of coaching here and there, I see a path to the finish line.

I noticed the original clamp on the coolant hose to the cylinder head. Seeing as I have time, it's a good time to pop on a gear clamp, I guess?

Probably see a delay in reassembly as it's going to take an extra week to get parts in..

Curious, with the wear on the cam enough to replace it, I'm wondering what else is lurking deeper down. Do cams get beat up early in the wear process, or are we just avoiding a total tear down for practical reasons? Not asking for more work, mind you, just like to worry, lol.

Greasy, could you elucidate this for me? "more than likely the follower has wear (like a dip in it). the cups on the adjusters look slightly suspect" When I read it I just nodded like I knew what you were talking about, but my mind was actually kinda blank... Edit: Okay, as I used to tell my daughter, "Google is your friend." Still fuzzy, but basically the opposite side of the cam contact...
Thu, 10 Nov 2022 13:59:41 +0000

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Thu, 10 Nov 2022 13:59:41 +0000 linkquote
Just follow along on the scooterwest video and you'll have it together in an hour and a half. It's straightforward. The hardest part, if just doing a head gasket, is making sure you get the chain on in exactly the right place. Everything else just goes together like a puzzle.
Thu, 10 Nov 2022 14:08:34 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
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Thu, 10 Nov 2022 14:08:34 +0000 linkquote
This thread is by far the most interesting since the beginning of the month. Kudos for Dave for taking on such a project. And there is lot of interesting feedback.
Thu, 10 Nov 2022 23:19:14 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
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Thu, 10 Nov 2022 23:19:14 +0000 linkquote
I've seen a few cams that came out looking like yours. I've got one that was left over when someone put a Polini cam in a GTS 300 with 4K miles, more or less. The cam looks about like yours does, and I know there was nothing wrong with it when it was pulled. The coating on it wears off and it looks a lot worse than it is. Personally, I would probably use it again.

That said, I do have the European cam for the GTS, which is exactly like the one you removed. I am amazed how expensive they are.
Fri, 11 Nov 2022 01:14:46 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
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Fri, 11 Nov 2022 01:14:46 +0000 linkquote
Okay, guys, I have a bit of a dilemma...I respect your opinions, especially you, greasy, and Motovista....and appreciated your opinion George, in the sense that you only stand to lose a sale if I don't replace.

I realize the disadvantage of not having your hands on it, as greasy said. Photographs are great, but......

So, anyway, my inspiration tonight is that I'm taking one of our cars into the shop tomorrow, and I've got a pretty good relationship with my mechanic....I know he does cars, not PTWs, but I've got to think things are pretty similar at least looking at wear/damage. If I'm wrong, let me know. I'm sure he'd take a look for me. Sound reasoning? There's also another mechanic in town who I don't know, but he comes recommended to consider working on stuff for me (other than the fact that he doesn't know Vespas...but brakes, etc?). Wish I could teleport to your shop, greasy, with a 6-pack, or hell, a case under my arm (and some cat treats) but that ain't happening.

A friend/patient who's been inside of motorcycle engines, was wondering why I wasn't doing the base gasket at the same time to be sure....my rebuttal was that I couldn't see any leakage there-it was running from higher up, and looks good on inspection. Of course I don't want to complicate things unnecessarily. Guess if I'm wrong, I have to go back in, but my gut tells me I'll be good.

BTW, temps are going to drop 30 degrees by tomorrow, so moving forward, fortitude will be tested. I was impressed that Mrs. fledermaus suggested I bring it down into our basement laundry room to work on (we have ground level access). I thought it was a great idea, though the scooter is on the lift on a jack, and even if I could get the scooter down, the lift is almost as heavy, so, maybe the garage will be just fine....
Fri, 11 Nov 2022 01:45:00 +0000

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Fri, 11 Nov 2022 01:45:00 +0000 linkquote
fledermaus wrote:
I was impressed that Mrs. fledermaus suggested I bring it down into our basement laundry room to work on (we have ground level access). I thought it was a great idea, though the scooter is on the lift on a jack, and even if I could get the scooter down, the lift is almost as heavy, so, maybe the garage will be just fine....
When I get suggestions like that, it's usually that I take everything down to the basement and stay there.

On your own, it's very difficult to wheelbarrow a Vespa, and surprisingly easy for them to get away from you and fall over. If you do that, use something like tie downs to strap the handlebars so the wheel can't flop from side to side.

I think your plan is sound as far as having someone with experience look at the cam. I would be willing to bet that if it was their own bike, and they'd seen Vespas day in and day out, most mechanics wouldn't replace the cam.
Fri, 11 Nov 2022 02:05:43 +0000

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Fri, 11 Nov 2022 02:05:43 +0000 linkquote
I'll second Motovista on it. on *my* bike, I probably would send it. on a client bike, replace.

but again, dependent on what the rockers looked like.

100% I'd encourage having someone that is knowledgeable have a look at it.

re: moving a motor-less bike-- unless you have another able body to help you it's a risky proposition. they can and do get away quick and there's really not much you can do once they start!
Fri, 11 Nov 2022 09:55:32 +0000

Ossessionato
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Fri, 11 Nov 2022 09:55:32 +0000 linkquote
Thank you for the on going entertainment and education.
Fri, 11 Nov 2022 16:03:19 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
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Fri, 11 Nov 2022 16:03:19 +0000 linkquote
lostboater wrote:
Thank you for the on going entertainment and education.
FWIW I'm trying like hell to keep it boring!
Sat, 12 Nov 2022 02:08:18 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
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Sat, 12 Nov 2022 02:08:18 +0000 linkquote
Soon, looks like it's going together as is. Took the cam to my auto mechanic today. His opinion was to use it.

I trust Fritz- first dealt with him when my SAAB had starting issues. Another mechanic had the car for a couple of months and my car still left me stranded. Called Fritz (recommended by a friend), who rescued me and had the car running in a day.

He's got an interesting story. German/Venezuelan, grew up in Venezuela, had some interesting motorcycle adventures there...including a crash or two, before moving to the U.S. His Spanish fluency has given him a niche market with immigrant Hispanics. Had family back in Venezuela until political turmoil forced them to flee, leaving behind a large farm among other things.

Anyway, should have time later this weekend to get back on things...
Sat, 12 Nov 2022 02:38:05 +0000

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Sat, 12 Nov 2022 02:38:05 +0000 linkquote
fledermaus wrote:
Soon, looks like it's going together as is. Took the cam to my auto mechanic today. His opinion was to use it.
I agree. I've seen worse, and those engines ran just fine for many miles upon reassembly. And in the unlikely event you have a problem in the future, you will have the added knowledge and skills from this repair to more easily deal with it. Just adjust the valve lash upon reassembly (it's easy with the engine removed) and you're good.
Sun, 13 Nov 2022 18:38:35 +0000

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Posts: 11035
Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 LX150 2015 GTS 2013 BV 350
Joined: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 00:46:39 +0000
Posts: 11035
Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
Sun, 13 Nov 2022 18:38:35 +0000 linkquote
Okay, going to see what I can get accomplished today. Of course we have a cold snap and I can nearly see my breath out there, but it's not terrible and worst case sitting a heater on the benchtop should keep my fingers from freezing.

Quick question from the pros...I wasn't sure if I needed to replace the O-rings on the studs, ordered a set just in case, but seeing that's near the beginning here, I'll ask while I'm searching my resources. TIA.
Sun, 13 Nov 2022 18:52:39 +0000

Member
2012 GTV300, 2007 GTS250
Joined: Fri, 27 Aug 2021 00:51:01 +0000
Posts: 35
Location: Madison WI
 
Member
2012 GTV300, 2007 GTS250
Joined: Fri, 27 Aug 2021 00:51:01 +0000
Posts: 35
Location: Madison WI
Sun, 13 Nov 2022 18:52:39 +0000 linkquote
Yes, replace them. You will see the old ones will be pretty flat.
Sun, 13 Nov 2022 19:22:52 +0000

Molto Verboso
GTS 300ie Touring 2013 - Signora D'argento & GTS 300ie HPE 2022 - Regina Arancione.
Joined: Sun, 03 Jun 2018 08:14:34 +0000
Posts: 1995
Location: Lancaster, U.K.
 
Molto Verboso
GTS 300ie Touring 2013 - Signora D'argento & GTS 300ie HPE 2022 - Regina Arancione.
Joined: Sun, 03 Jun 2018 08:14:34 +0000
Posts: 1995
Location: Lancaster, U.K.
Sun, 13 Nov 2022 19:22:52 +0000 linkquote
Don't forget the plastic bag trick so the new 'O' rings don't snag on the threads of the cylinder head studs.
Sun, 13 Nov 2022 20:25:54 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 LX150 2015 GTS 2013 BV 350
Joined: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 00:46:39 +0000
Posts: 11035
Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 LX150 2015 GTS 2013 BV 350
Joined: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 00:46:39 +0000
Posts: 11035
Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
Sun, 13 Nov 2022 20:25:54 +0000 linkquote
Touring300 wrote:
Don't forget the plastic bag trick so the new 'O' rings don't snag on the threads of the cylinder head studs.
Erm, not acquainted with that. Guessing covering the threads with plastic bag material to slide over? edit: Duh, yeah. Robot got it.

More questions, coming one right after another at the moment.... not sure about cleaning the mating surfaces of the cylinder head....greasy had also recommended brake cleaner, and not sure what I'm actually cleaning along the way here. Edit: Umm, got it, at least for the head surfaces... Also, he'd recommended both red and blue Loctite. I'm not sure when and where that will come into use, so unless Robot comes up that, I'm open... I've watched his total teardown porn, which delayed me getting to the assembly portion I'll be using.

And now, my biggest concern, in that I (probably stupidly) rotated the drive shaft, getting TDC lined up. My white mark doesn't seem to correspond well with the piston being TDC. I know that the white mark moves relative to the cam gear, but still at best doesn't seem to come close. I don't think it can skip on the lower gear that easily, though I guess I can't rule that out. I know greasy suggested there was at least a remedy, but obviously this is a critical detail. Soo, while I can still see the top of the cylinder seems like the best time to get things sorted?

Last edited by fledermaus on Sun, 13 Nov 2022 22:48:53 +0000; edited 1 time
Sun, 13 Nov 2022 22:10:16 +0000

Sergeant at Arms
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
Joined: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 19:59:19 +0000
Posts: 12234
Location: The state of insanity, SoCal
 
Sergeant at Arms
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
Joined: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 19:59:19 +0000
Posts: 12234
Location: The state of insanity, SoCal
Sun, 13 Nov 2022 22:10:16 +0000 linkquote
fledermaus wrote:
Erm, not acquainted with that. Guessing covering the threads with plastic bag material to slide over? edit: Duh, yeah. Robot got it.

More questions, coming one right after another at the moment.... not sure about cleaning the mating surfaces of the cylinder head....greasy had also recommended brake cleaner, and not sure what I'm actually cleaning along the way here. Edit: Umm, got it, at least for the head surfaces... Also, he'd recommended both red and blue Loctite. I'm not sure when and where that will come into use, so unless Robot comes up that, I'm open... I've watched his total teardown porn, which delayed me getting to the assembly portion I'll be using.

And now, my biggest concern, in that I (probably stupidly) rotated the drive shaft, getting TDC lined up. My white mark doesn't seem to correspond well with the piston being TDC. I know that the white mark moves relative to the cam gear, but still at best doesn't seem to come close. I don't think it can skip on the lower gear that easily, though I guess I can't rule that out. I know greasy suggested there was at least a remedy, but obviously this is a critical detail. Soo, while I can still see the cylinder head seems like the best time to get things sorted?
yeah, the cleaning is fairly self evident once everything is apart and you're looking at it. I like just green scotch brite and brake clean. and then wipe down with a clean blue towel. clean clean clean enough to eat off of.

locktite- I use red for the cam plate screws and the screw for the decompression wheel. just a *drop* is all you need. I put a tiny bit of blue on the two long M6 head bolts. same with the intake and t-stat housing-- if you took them off. blue and red on other associated assemblies- motor/shock mounts, brake/swing arm mounts, transmission.

if you rotated the engine after you marked the chain and wheel those marks are now irrelevant. you'll have to time it from square one.

I mean, if it's all together still and you can remember how many revolutions you turned it I *guess* you could turn it back the same number and maybe hit on it to reset?

frankly I'd time it from scratch, just to be sure.

btw, do you have a straight edge?
Sun, 13 Nov 2022 22:54:28 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 LX150 2015 GTS 2013 BV 350
Joined: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 00:46:39 +0000
Posts: 11035
Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 LX150 2015 GTS 2013 BV 350
Joined: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 00:46:39 +0000
Posts: 11035
Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
Sun, 13 Nov 2022 22:54:28 +0000 linkquote
greasy125 wrote:
frankly I'd time it from scratch, just to be sure.

btw, do you have a straight edge?
As for the straight edge, somewhere I think I have a 6 inch machinist's ruler my dad had...I assume I need something reliably straight. If that doesn't do it, probably not.

As for doing it from scratch, at what point of assembly should that be done. Is it fairly straight forward, i.e. can you walk me through that? Or suggest a resource? The beer debt I owe you is getting pretty big.
Sun, 13 Nov 2022 23:07:06 +0000

Sergeant at Arms
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
Joined: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 19:59:19 +0000
Posts: 12234
Location: The state of insanity, SoCal
 
Sergeant at Arms
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
Joined: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 19:59:19 +0000
Posts: 12234
Location: The state of insanity, SoCal
Sun, 13 Nov 2022 23:07:06 +0000 linkquote
hold up. I gotta pull a valve body out of this POS car. I'll give you the full break down on both here in just a min
Mon, 14 Nov 2022 00:51:27 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 LX150 2015 GTS 2013 BV 350
Joined: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 00:46:39 +0000
Posts: 11035
Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 LX150 2015 GTS 2013 BV 350
Joined: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 00:46:39 +0000
Posts: 11035
Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
Mon, 14 Nov 2022 00:51:27 +0000 linkquote
greasy125 wrote:
hold up. I gotta pull a valve body out of this POS car. I'll give you the full break down on both here in just a min
No probs. Done until tomorrow night at the earliest.
Mon, 14 Nov 2022 01:04:44 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
MP3 500, GTS 250 (both 2008 MY), 2013 Piaggio BV 350, 2014 Can Am Spyder RT
Joined: Sat, 02 Mar 2013 22:00:49 +0000
Posts: 7131
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
MP3 500, GTS 250 (both 2008 MY), 2013 Piaggio BV 350, 2014 Can Am Spyder RT
Joined: Sat, 02 Mar 2013 22:00:49 +0000
Posts: 7131
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Mon, 14 Nov 2022 01:04:44 +0000 linkquote
fledermaus wrote:
No probs. Done until tomorrow night at the earliest.
What, no midnight oil being burnt?
Mon, 14 Nov 2022 01:17:58 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 LX150 2015 GTS 2013 BV 350
Joined: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 00:46:39 +0000
Posts: 11035
Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 LX150 2015 GTS 2013 BV 350
Joined: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 00:46:39 +0000
Posts: 11035
Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
Mon, 14 Nov 2022 01:17:58 +0000 linkquote
Madison Sully wrote:
What, no midnight oil being burnt?
Plenty of time... one of the percs of the end of the riding season I guess. Only rush is beating the really cold temps. Besides, I already had my beverage break.
Wed, 16 Nov 2022 18:28:16 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 LX150 2015 GTS 2013 BV 350
Joined: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 00:46:39 +0000
Posts: 11035
Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 LX150 2015 GTS 2013 BV 350
Joined: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 00:46:39 +0000
Posts: 11035
Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
Wed, 16 Nov 2022 18:28:16 +0000 linkquote
Just bumping this. Was thinking about going into this after the weekend, but Monday was a crap day and I didn't want to make it worse.

So, finally back with time and motivation. The most challenging part is in front of me, that is valve timing reset, as I have no idea what I'm doing (vs. the usual of having a vague idea, which has gotten me this far in life. )

So if greasy or anyone else wants to weigh, in, more than welcome!

I'm either over- or under thinking this. I understand getting the camshaft mark synchronized with the flywheel mark at TDC, which seems relatively simple. So matching the flywheel and cam marks assures that the valves coordinate with piston movement and spark? Is there anything else?
Thu, 17 Nov 2022 01:10:08 +0000

Member
2012 GTV300, 2007 GTS250
Joined: Fri, 27 Aug 2021 00:51:01 +0000
Posts: 35
Location: Madison WI
 
Member
2012 GTV300, 2007 GTS250
Joined: Fri, 27 Aug 2021 00:51:01 +0000
Posts: 35
Location: Madison WI
Thu, 17 Nov 2022 01:10:08 +0000 linkquote
fledermaus wrote:
I'm either over- or under thinking this. I understand getting the camshaft mark synchronized with the flywheel mark at TDC, which seems relatively simple. So matching the flywheel and cam marks assures that the valves coordinate with piston movement and spark? Is there anything else?
That's pretty much it. If you're uncertain, post pics of both timing marks here for verification.
Thu, 17 Nov 2022 01:39:32 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 LX150 2015 GTS 2013 BV 350
Joined: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 00:46:39 +0000
Posts: 11035
Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 LX150 2015 GTS 2013 BV 350
Joined: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 00:46:39 +0000
Posts: 11035
Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
Thu, 17 Nov 2022 01:39:32 +0000 linkquote
kmev wrote:
That's pretty much it. If you're uncertain, post pics of both timing marks here for verification.
Thanks. Have some time tomorrow....I'll see what I can get done in a cold garage.
   

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