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My dear fellas,

I am a Spanish guy living in the UK, nice to meet you all!
I hope someone here can help me, I am so stuck!

After trying to find any info about it and after being failing for weeks I just...need help.
I am trying to add a LED spotlight to my non battery P200E.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I am going to keep the vespa AC, so I have bought a AC to DC converter only for that LED. I will add a capacitor as well to avoid flickering.

Converter:
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I have installed a switch for that spotlight
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I am thinking about taking the power from the wire box in the "nose" of my vespa. The green cables you see are coming from the new switch and I have created a new ground as well.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I have so many questions fellas...pfff
The main one is: How can I connect my converter? I see 2 red wires to AC IN but should I connect one of them to ground? What's the best wire from my nose box to take the AC? I am confused with this ac/dc converter.
Pfff please, I need help!
Thank you very much in advance to everyone!
Hugs from the UK
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Solved!
LED Spotlight working beautifully
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@sdjohn avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
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it would be good of you to tell us how you solved it so if someone finds the thread in the future they can understand.....
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Here is how I have solved it:
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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Did you wire in the capacitor?
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I didn't because I am using a G4 led, so it has an internal resistor and a little capacitor. If you are not using a G4 you should wire in a capacitor and a resistor to uncharge it when you switch of your light or turn off the vespa.
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Molto Verboso
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Seeing rectifiers with internal capacitors on Amazon Nerd emoticon

Did something similar on my Allstate/Vape AC.
Worked great all Summer. Super bright LED headlight until I rode during a heatwave (110F).

Tucked the rectifier away from the headlight in the headset, but I imagine vibration shifted it a little
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Lesson learned.
Lesson learned.
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Omg! Look at that!! How is that possible??
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Hooked
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Ray8 wrote:
Did something similar on my Allstate/Vape AC.
Worked great all Summer. Super bright LED headlight until I rode during a heatwave (110F).
Was the LED/headlight insulated from the chassis earth?
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Is there any fuse box on older models in order not to damage the rest of the electrical system when shit like that happens ?
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The converter melted itself. Old vespas have the head made of metal and the space is really narrow.I suspect the converter was inside the head, probably touching the metal, so during the heatwave receiving the heat from the sun directly...the plastic just melted.
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Tomorrow I am going to test something. I am going to insert my AC to DC converter on the Yellow wire, the one going to the lights and horn.
I know my horn will stop working because its a AC one, but I want to try something simple to put a BA20d LED headlight (and my spotlight). This way the conversion is 100% reversible and simple. If it works, I will buy a DC horn.
(Sorry my P200E diagram is in Spanish. Amarillo means Yellow)
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firekdp wrote:
Was the LED/headlight insulated from the chassis earth?
I connected it directly to the high beam and ground wires from the switch. Low beam wire blanked, so switch became on/off.

It fried against the headlight.
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parallelogramerist
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Keep in mind that those inexpensive Chinese AC to DC converters are rated for 36-watt max output, 25-watt continuous output.
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parallelogramerist
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I remember looking at the specs for the converters about 4 years ago at Superbright LEDs. I can only assume that all of the AC to DC converters that are built in China have pretty much the same specs.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/12v-ac-to-dc-converter-module-3-amps
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Molto Verboso
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Yorch1 wrote:
Tomorrow I am going to test something. I am going to insert my AC to DC converter on the Yellow wire, the one going to the lights and horn.
I know my horn will stop working because its a AC one, but I want to try something simple to put a BA20d LED headlight (and my spotlight). This way the conversion is 100% reversible and simple. If it works, I will buy a DC horn.
(Sorry my P200E diagram is in Spanish. Amarillo means Yellow)
Fascinating diagram.
Completely different approach vs the American market bikes!

I don't think your test is going to work.
Yellow is the pathway to the regulator. It's live 12v or so on your multimeter with the engine running, but it isn't the source of power. Blue is power from the stator. Yellow is to the regulator, that shunts/grounds power over 12v.

"If I were you" I'd get another one of those Chinese 5A badboys and tuck it the hell away from the headlight in the headset. Saves your AC horn.
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Ray8 wrote:
Fascinating diagram.
Completely different approach vs the American market bikes!

I don't think your test is going to work.
Yellow is the pathway to the regulator. It's live 12v or so on your multimeter with the engine running, but it isn't the source of power. Blue is power from the stator. Yellow is to the regulator, that shunts/grounds power over 12v.

"If I were you" I'd get another one of those Chinese 5A badboys and tuck it the hell away from the headlight in the headset. Saves your AC horn.
derp...i completely didn't see the 5A max on Yorch1's converter. Since that's the case, then it should be plenty to handle the power of a couple LED lights. It doesn't specify what the continuous amp rating is though.
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Ray8 wrote:
Fascinating diagram.
Completely different approach vs the American market bikes!

I don't think your test is going to work.
Yellow is the pathway to the regulator. It's live 12v or so on your multimeter with the engine running, but it isn't the source of power. Blue is power from the stator. Yellow is to the regulator, that shunts/grounds power over 12v.

"If I were you" I'd get another one of those Chinese 5A badboys and tuck it the hell away from the headlight in the headset. Saves your AC horn.
Yes I see the blue coming from the stator to the nose box. From the nose box to the horn switch. I can not see that blue wire going to anywhere else so...from where is the headlight taking its power? I am misunderstanding something, fella.
I would like only 2 LEDs, spotlight and Headlight. Is there any way to convert both of them with only one "bad boy" converter
Thanks Ray
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Molto Verboso
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Yorch1 wrote:
Yes I see the blue coming from the stator to the nose box. From the nose box to the horn switch. I can not see that blue wire going to anywhere else so...from where is the headlight taking its power? I am misunderstanding something, fella.
I would like only 2 LEDs, spotlight and Headlight. Is there any way to convert both of them with only one "bad boy" converter
Thanks Ray
Headlight power is the two highbeam/lowbeam (purplish/brownish) wires from the switch, which is fed by that blue at the nose.

Can't see a way around using another converter
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Do you have the video when the spotlight working? I'd like to use converter too
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I will record one for you today
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