Modern Vespa

I've stripped down a few VBB front forks + hubs before, but with this dingy neglected one here, it's a tad different and one shaft is so stubborn to get out.

I haven't come across this exact setup where the two shafts are held on the trailing link end with a thin bracket and bolt. The one that holds the bottom of the suspension spring and also acts as the pin for the brake shoes is just giving me fits. Which way does it have to move? I've used heat, I've used oil. It moves about 1 inch either way then sticks. I don't want to get too medieval on it.

This pin doesn't have a flange at the brake drum side like ones on other vvb fork assemblies did, so it's not obvious that it gets hit from the drum side or from the trailing link side. Who's remembers?

Bump...

Is it correct to hit it from this side? Or the drum side?

It comes out through the swingarm side (so hit it from the drum side). I have that same fork design on my VBB and it was also a complete PITA to get out.

Well that looks incredibly not fun......

Thanks. The shaft will probably become a "consumable" and will have to be replaced.

The other style VBB fork/hub is way preferable and more straightforward. The shaft ends that are held on by lock washers and a nut on the trailing link end each have a recess that will receive a narrow drift. You can carefully whack them out.

You can EASILY break the casting with too much force. A bimetallic reaction occurs between the steel pin and the zamak ? casting. Wire brush and file ALL the visible corrosion off of the pins. Use a lot of heat. Be careful.

Thanks for the good advice, garncarz.

It's always traumatizing when you find yourself having to wham away at something stuck, knowing that it's just cast "pot" metal or whatever that you're faced with. Lots of these project bikes haven't been apart in ages and corrosion is all too common, at least in the northeast. Hope you were able to replace that.

I used lots of heat and PB Blaster to get my pin out. Smoothed it out with emery paper before it went back in.

You can use the later VBB/Super style swingarm assembly with the OG fork, too, if it comes to that.

While the Vespa factory never used anti-seize, I recommend using it on the pivot bolts when installing.

Also:
early exhaust bolt -

Definitely. Great suggestion.

Jonathan, have you had success removing a seized broken exhaust bolt? I have one on a rough engine case. Also a seized long case bolt on the same motor.

My garage right now. I buy in quantity

Many exhaust bolt repairs, here are two:

Exhaust bolt hole repair
broken exhaust bolt in the case repair

You have to remove the bolt and the surrounding material, then TIG weld the entire area up and start over. It is very invasive procedure, but can be done with factory results.


I removed the long bolt for Swiss1939 on this board.

Oddly, not everyone likes the smell of PB Blaster. Am I the only one whose wife bitches and moans--I mean offers constructive criticism--every time PB Blaster is used in the garage or basement?

Nope. She didn't like it when I dabbed a little behind each ear for date night, either.

I tried to get my wife to wear Hoppe's #9, no luck.

I bought CARBINE Men's Body Spray, she isn't impressed with it either.

https://www.humphreyshandmade.com/collections/mens-natural-body-spray/products/carbine-men-s-body-spray-gun-oil-scented-all-natural-perfume-room-and-linen-spray-2-oz-witch-hazel-fragrance-steampunk-2a-rifle

Most women prefer melee weapons. Have you tried AXE body spray instead?

This is too hilarious. I asked her just today what she thought of the fragrant PB Blaster and lucky for me she likes it. What she's not crazy about, though, is when I heat the living sh*t out of some filthy oily old parts with a torch and it wafts into the house.

Speaking of that, bloody hell! Finally wrestled that little devil out of the front hub. Lucky I didn't break anything but I guess I won't be re-using that pin. The brake shoe circlip would never stay on now.

Old spice krakengard.
Litttle on the pita and then just a strike across the chest.
Everyone at Xmas will comment on how nice u smell at Xmas.
🙂

Nice job!

Thanks. I'll just note too (in case others scratching their heads in the future find this thread) that this really took time and an insane amount of persuasion. It went against every instinct of restraint and "do no harm" to valuable vintage components.

Use LOTS of heat, penetrating oil, and waiting. Then brief sessions of knocking it this way and that with proper fitting drifts and a copper hammer, all the while carefully supporting the base of the trailing link on 4"x4" blocks, etc. Clean off the rust residue and metal dust as you go. In the end, I had to clobber it so ruthlessly to push it thru that it's a miracle the hub didn't shatter.

Like Gick said, I'll definitely incorporate more anti-seize into my rebuilds as well going forward to help the next guy.

Amazing nothing broke. Wouldn't be surprised if the PO put copper slip on it and thought he was doing you a favour.