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@delaadam avatar
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P150S Strada, Lambretta 150 LD
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@delaadam avatar
P150S Strada, Lambretta 150 LD
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Have a 1983 Vespa VBX1T, P150S Strada. 3 port. (This bike was made for the Indo. market) The new crankshaft I bought didn't fit. This orig. crank has 25mm shoulders on both the flywheel and clutch sides to fit into the bearings and some other maybe not so common, shoulders on it. Does anyone know of a replacement cranks with the same specs? Or something that would work? See photos. Thanks!
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Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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Before the crowd answers, Are you certain the old crank shaft doesn't have a bearing race still on the fly side?
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P150S Strada, Lambretta 150 LD
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@delaadam avatar
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Here is a photo of the flywheel side- on my old Crank. If the race is pressed on, it still totals 25mm round And fits well into the bearing. The New crank I bought (that doesn't fit), had a race pressed on and it was 28mm round. Obviously, not able to sit into the bearing that is installed in the case.
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Sergeant at Arms
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
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can we get some pics of the bearings & races, new & old as wells as the cranks?

I can't tell from the pic of the crank if the race is still on there because of the angle and shadow.
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@delaadam avatar
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P150S Strada, Lambretta 150 LD
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@delaadam avatar
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See below photos of the New Crank with the race pressed on making it 28mm on the flywheel side. ( the clutch side was 25mm and fit well). The bearing pressed into my case, and a photo of the old crank with the 25mm shoulder.

I am thinking, possibly trying to remove the pressed on race on the new Crank and with out it, it may fit. But I don't want to destroy a new crank that I can return if this is not an option. Thanks !
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Hooked
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
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Why would you replace the crank but not the bearings !? In my opinion, start fresh with new bearings.
Order the right ones and go !
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@delaadam avatar
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P150S Strada, Lambretta 150 LD
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UTC quote
The bearings seem to be fine. There are 2 issues with the old crank:
1) the woodruff key slots are totally worn and the keys slip and keep getting sheered off causing the timing to be off.
2) The fly wheel side threads are stripped and a mess so the flywheel can not be properly tightened which again cause the timing to be off and the bike not to run.

I was advised to replace the crank and that would solve those 2 issues. The bearing size that fits this bike is the same for the clutch and fly side (25mm opening). I can not find a bearing that fits the case that has a 28mm opening to accommodate the new crank I bought( it has a race pressed on making it 28mm round), hence the issue...
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Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, PX200 O tuned, PX181 M1XL, PX125 O tuned and some motorbikes
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Jet Eye Master
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New cranks must be fitted with two new seals and two new bearings. However, doesn't seem like you brought a new crank (eBay?). Those 28mm bearing rings are part of the PX bearing. They do come off but takes some skill.
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DelaAdam wrote:
The bearings seem to be fine.
For the cost of bearings why take the chance? And how much life is left in them, change them now and you've got a line in the sand.
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Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
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Either a bodge job on the fly side or they used bigger bearings for that market. Check the overall dimensions. If they're 25x52x15mm then replace the one already in with a NU205 to make things easy. You'll also need to replace the race on the crank you bought. And as everyone said, new bearings, seals and I'd say a cruciform is a must since the engine's split...
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P150S Strada, Lambretta 150 LD
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The crank is new. I bought it from ScooterWorks.com (Mike there has also been very helpful trying to trouble shoot this issue, but we don't have a solution)

Here is a #NU205 bearing photo that fits my case. It is shown with the race not pressed in.

Here's the question: Is the race about 28mm on it's outside? If so, I am thinking I can press in the new bearing and then the 28mm size race that is pressed on the new crank will fit in?

Thanks!
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@safis avatar
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@safis avatar
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NO!! Whatever you decide, you need to remove the race that's on the new crank. Crank is 25mm at the center. The race it has on it's from a split type bearing that's 25x38x15 mm and common on P/PX engines. Your case half is different. It was either bodged (enlarged) or it's common for that market. If the dimensions of the bearing currently in, match the NU205, replacing it with it will make future splitting easier...
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@delaadam avatar
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UTC quote
Got it! Ok - What is the best way to go about removing the pressed on race - on the new crank? Appreciate the info and advice!
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Jet Eye Master
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UTC quote
DelaAdam wrote:
The crank is new. I bought it from ScooterWorks.com (Mike there has also been very helpful trying to trouble shoot this issue, but we don't have a solution)

Here is a #NU205 bearing photo that fits my case. It is shown with the race not pressed in.

Here's the question: Is the race about 28mm on it's outside? If so, I am thinking I can press in the new bearing and then the 28mm size race that is pressed on the new crank will fit in?

Thanks!
The crank with the 28.7mm ring on in your picture is not new. It actually looks fairly used.

That bearing is as a T5 if you are shopping.
@safis avatar
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Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
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@safis avatar
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UTC quote
Jack221 wrote:
The crank with the 28.7mm ring on in your picture is not new. It actually looks fairly used.
I thought so too. Why would a new crank have a race installed. And the area where the fly seal works looks pretty worn...
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UTC quote
SaFiS wrote:
Why would a new crank have a race installed.
What he said.
@colinbelgium avatar
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VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
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UTC quote
I have never seen a new crank with a race installed, race is coming with the new bearing ! Weird…

Or, maybe he wrote new as new to him but could be and probably is 2nd hand
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'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '65 VBB, '66 Allstate SF, '66 180SS, '58 LD 125 (150)
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UTC quote
DelaAdam wrote:
1) the woodruff key slots are totally worn and the keys slip and keep getting sheered off causing the timing to be off.

FWIW.....

The key only indexes the crank to the flywheel for timing purposes and if the tapers of the crank and flywheel hub are properly matched and the nut is torqued to spec, there is, technically, no need for the key. If it shears, the issue is with the interference fit of the crank and the hub. On the other, straight end of the crank shaft the key is critical.

Also, as far as I know, bearings all come in whole numbered (Metric) increments.

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