Modern Vespa

then how you spotted it?

By the seat. I maybe wrong but SS originally have single seat.
Here you can find lot of about VIN numbers, some model descriptions and technical data.

I just noticed this.
AFAIK PK XL2(and other similar models as FL, FL2, HP4) is also called Cosetta. So if it is PK XL2 fork then you can't straight mount any other handlebar on it.

This is how XL2 steering tube looks.


And this XL type that you need

Yes i know... when i bought it i didnt knew it but i can take it to a welder with the old fork and cut the upper part and weld it on this one. Its an extra cost but i didnt knew it before i buy it

I'm not sure but there maybe a problem with steering column lock.

i hope not. in my mind it is so easy! a very easy conversion to do. IN MY MIND.
i think there wont be any problem. its like buying this product from SIP
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/adapter-steering-column-zip-quartz-et2-steering-column-in-vespa-frame-top_13399331

I'm not sure but ignition lock maybe on different height on XL and XL2

when the time will come to check i will let you know. at the moment i have a really stuborn gear change twist grip. it is stuck and it doesnt move at all.... wd-40 by itself dont do the job

finally i managed to un stuck the gear change tube after about 2 and a half weeks? now i have to grind and sand every sport there is rust and after that i think i will let it as it is. the only things i think i must do it to spray the frame underneath with epoxy primer and maybe something else to protect from rust and at the rest of the frame maybe something that will cover and protect the bare metal to rust again and then a clear laquer or satin finish varnish? dont know. also tried to sticker bomb the handlebar cover but the result its not very good. either is the quality of the stickers or the plastic cover its not shinny anymore and stickers dont stick as the should. also at the corners and curves cannot fit em really good.

Nice to see some progress. Personally I left it as is without stickerbombing. Just clean and prevent rust and maybe some local painting.

Can you please take measurings of rear light?
I noticed that rear light on my PK S is in very bad shape, inner part tears apart slowly. I decide to order new one but with brake light(my don't have it) but it seems that light with brake lamp is much bigger. And I not like it.

O M G... thought it would be easier

Plastic tub and a gallon of diesel fuel would help clean that technical term "gunk" up a bit.

Oven degreaser and a power washer…

Unfortunatelly i wont open this engine. i will try to make it work as is. lack of knowledge and tools so.... i will continue with petrol, wire brush and spatoula . i wont fit the malossi parts in this engine. this will be a "test" engine. i ll try with almost nothing to spend, make an engine run... impossible huh?

Save yourself the disappointment and open up the cases while you have the engine out.

Even if you get the thing running, you will likely have to pull it again shortly due to worn cruciform. Pulling and fitting back the engine on a smallframe is not a small feat. Splitting the engine once you have the lump on the table is well worth the trouble.

Bad main bearings can lead to damaged sealing pad -> big hassle
Bad cruciform -> gears jump and will eventually eat your gear cogs too

chances are high your seals need replacing and the cruciform as well. I second the do it now vote.

Ah yes, bad seals too... Might get a running engine with them, but never a well working one.

It might be a nuisance to pull the cases apart if it's fitted with two ball bearings on the crankshaft. To make life easier, fit a two-piece NU-type bearing on the flywheel side.

thanks for your replies guys but unfortunatelly i dont have the tools i need to do this. not even a flywheel puller. also i think making a rebuild on the engine will need extractors and some other tools. if i am gonna pay 150-200euro for buying tools then i can give it to a mechanic and get out of trouble

The "special" things needed for rebuilding a smallie engine are basically flywheel and clutch puller which both are going to set you back for ~10eur/piece.

Other basic stuff include a propane/butane torch for getting bearings off the magneto side case.

these will cost far less than the mechanic

a monthn ago my mechanic asked me 120 euro with out the spare parts. just a rebuild, if he asked me the same its a good price to let him do it that pay for it.

Just for compare. Provided that I got the smallframe engine "on the table" I ask from $150 to 200 for rebuilding includes engine cleaning, cases porting, squish adjustment, gearbox shimming, ignition timing, silent blocks change, some other works like exhaust fitting etc. so the "customer" receive back engine that ready to p'n'p in the chassis.

I agree with FINYoshi about flywheel and clutch pullers. But I also can add the puller for drive shaft needle bearing, pair of circlip pliers, feeler gauge set... chunks for bearings and seals and torque wrench will also not be superfluous. I also prefer heat gun instead of torch.

Apart from the needle bearing puller, I consider all these things as basic tools

But then again, it is just a matter of perspective which will likely blur as the addiction to engines grows stronger

You'd be surprised… you would've thought… but apparently, circlip pliers aren't basic tools… I don't know anyone with a decent set.

I feel like everyone is using 2 screw drivers here. Lol

I'm not hammering anything, so crankshaft remover and primary basket holder and large G clamps are a must for me.

its not the latest pics but ull get an idea.... engine although i fitted a new 102cc cylinder kit needs rebuild. also i have a small issue with the indicators. probably if i switch the wires can be solved.. i will try to update soon