Modern Vespa

I already use XL cover. It is almost same as V-range cover(with long arm)
And XL2 cover is one with geared push rod. And require al other XL2 parts.
You can't mix XL and XL2.
Only solution for XL(or V-range) cover if you want geared push rod is Crimaz kit and pressure plate with bearing.

Yeah, meant the "pk clutch cover that everyone uses for the fabbri clutch basket"… lol

I've only really come across the "new" XL2 cover and the v range with a long arm. I think I might have a normal PK cover back in the UK, but can't remember if it's just another v range cover.

I wonder are all the "new" XL2 covers the same as an original XL2 cover? Or there's some small differences in the space?

Kinda glad CM found all that research on smallie covers… or I'd be even more lost…

I think "new" XL2 cover have more space inside for modern clutches.

I have SIP v.1 XL2 cover, SIP XL2 clutch lever and SIP XL2 14.25mm push rod.
I tried mount it on my original Special crankcase with VMC gear tree, Ferodo XL2 Sport clutch and Piaggio XL2 pressure plate. Gear tree was shimmed with 0.5 spacer.
Then it turned out that I need 2 mm clutch cover spacer and I can assume that it is because I have 14.25 mm pushrod. If I'd have 12.25 push rod then I don't need clutch cover spacer.
Ok, I put 2 mm clutch cover spacer. And the problem was that clutch drags hard when I pull the lever. Also it was very hard to adjust cable tension between kickstart lever slipping and that the clutch somehow works.
Then I disassembled all again. And noticed that when lever is pulled pressure plate rests again clutch basket nut on gear tree.
Went to FB with this problem and Cristian "CRIMAZ" Mazelli said that Crimaz pressure plate will solve my problem. Ok, I ordered it. Mounted it and nothing changed maybe a very little.

I was tired about all this madness and put back single spring V-range clutch but with Crimaz pressure plate. To be honest I didn't noticed any difference in work between Crimaz and original pressure plate.
Here you can find some pics of my clutch, clutch cover, etc.

Then I mounted my Ferodo XL2 clutch to the mate's PK XL2 with all original crankcase, gear tree, clutch cover and other XL2 bits and it work absolutely perfect.

Took me a while to digest that, but totally get your adventure with the clutch…

Weird that the pressure plate was hitting the nut on the Christmas tree.

What I found on my v range was that the clutch arm on the cover when moved all the way didn't move the brass pushrod very far… and it was new, I didn't want to invest in a new cover.

But there was no way that I could make it work. Same problems as you, no matter how much you adjusted, just stalled in 1st gear and jumpy clutch, high revs and it would half work.

Honestly, the clutch is probably one of the last things I would upgrade on a build, because you have to get into pretty serious power before you really outgrow the capacity of a stock clutch, especially with stiff springs.

It's also a relatively easy part to swap out, but if it's not slipping or chewing through plates on a regular basis, then I'd just run with it.

Disagree with that amigo.

Clutches are the key to buttery smooth gear shifts…

I'd definitely upgrade in some way the clutch, probably 4 plates and the stoffi springs that ray has. I'm not mega convinced having a one spring clutch, unless the engine was stock.

My little rubbish 112cc Polini already produces 12HP, which is more than stock et3.

But the last thing I would upgrade, would be the gearbox.

Very happy this evening.
Threw engine into chassis. I had very little free time so I even not put nuts on the engine stud and on the shock absorber bolt.
But one thing worried me. How exhaust fits with engine in chassis?
Checked. It fits absolutely easily and with lot of space everywhere!
Still lot to do before finish.

I did say upgrade the springs, and I totally get your point. What I was trying to say (at least in my own head) is that the clutch is either adequate or it's not, so don't upgrade until you know it's not adequate.

But, yeah, gear box is last-last, for sure.

Ah yeah agree with that…

I think we all went through "er yeah the clutch needs upgrading" when riding… lol

I love the cover for the starter hole.

All cables done.


And new selector cover.


Flywheel cover, CDI and wires on its places.


Suddenly found rims reflective stickers set. I bought it in maybe 2004(!) for my Honda Giorno but not used don't remember why.
Since that time I changed few garages and houses but always kept stickers for idk why.
I was surprised that it still can be sticked. Maybe look bit stupid but it is not hard to remove when it start to annoy me.


Notice how good exhaust suits with chassis lines

Next question is about jets. Maybe Jack221 can help with what better to start?

It is SHBC 20 L and original PK air filter with addition holes drilled.

Cleaned carb and mounted original PK air filter with addition holes.
Jetting is:
110 main
55 idle

And engine starts from 3-4 kicks! I went for a ride despite cold and very windy weather! And was very pleased how nice and smooth scooter runs! For sure jets is need to be sorted but now it seems that it very close.

Done my first 32 km then back to garage and change old totally dead front shock and give a good service for front suspension and brakes - all was cleaned, checked and greased fresh.


New shock was in CIF branded bag but have Carbone sticker.

I like the sound of that pipe in the video. Those rim strips are like a neon light!😎 I would have a hard time hiding from the police where I live.😉 That's a really cool scoot, great job!

Again too cold for rides.
And I fixed dashboard bulbs.
When I got Snowball there was only one burned bulb in turn signal lamp. Changed it to new one and it blinked only when indicators was off Then I fixed that harness mess and lamp start to work correct.

In the blue signal lamp there was a plug instead of bulb holder. And one plug and one empty bulb holder without wiring in the speedo. Now I got all what I need and all lamps now works as it should.

I rode it for near 200 km now. And I can say that this cylinder was absolutely worth every cutting I did. Runs absolutely better than DR or Polini. And obviously can give more with better carburettor and exhaust.

It feels rich so i go to 108 main jet.

Love the malossi jet holder…

I need to get another one I think, there's not enough space in one, but I realised they're not fuel resistant.

The plastic melts when fuel touches it.

Few weeks ago I noticed leakage on the exhaust flange. Thought that it was gasket but no.
When I mounted exhaust first time I need to cut seam a bit otherwise it was impossible to torque the nut down. It was cut really little but seems that there was small hole.
So flange was re-welded and all assembled back today. Hope all will be ok.




Immediately after demount - flange is clear.


Same as gasket. Checked on both sides.


Possibly holes.

I also mounted MRP tool box.
Due to Polini exhaust it was need to be repositioned and drill new holes. Angle look weird but I decided to play it safe. Maybe later I'll lower the back of the box a bit. Anyway it absolutely enough to carry spare tube and air pump.

That sucks about the exhaust flange. Bad welding and no Quality Assurance, apparently.

I don't know that it will make you feel better, but the exhaust flange on my Quattrini is engineered such that you can't get an Allen wrench on the bolts if you don't grind it WAAAAAY back, and that's installing their own flange and exhaust!

even Quattrini... Obviously shame for non-$100 exhaust.

This Carbone shock absorber is absolutely crap.
It start to squeaks literally after the first 150 km.
But this is not the biggest problem. It works terribly. To be precise, it doesn't work! Transmits very strong knocks from really small bumps and pits on the road. The old worn original shock was much better!
I chosen it for it original look with plastic covers and for "Suspension STANDARD - like original and Grade A - perfect repair" as SIP states.
But now I regret that I did not buy the already tested YSS X-pro.

This is my second negative experience with Carbone shocks. First was Carbone Sport front shock for my LML. It holds for near 5000 km then died with massive oil leak.

*oil change reminder*

So I done already 800 km(50800 km on the clock) after engine rebuild. It is time to change gearbox oil.

As I said before - Carbone shock was absolutely crap.
So I go for YSS X-pro. I have that shocks on all my Vespas and never had any issues. I really wanted original looking shock for Snowball, but not for the price of so uncomfy and weird riding feelings.


Already tested it in different riding conditions and it is night and day compared to Carbone one.

Great PK!

Thanks Dan! The more I ride it - the more I love it.

Few days ago I have noticed some strange behaviour while driving.
It feels like fuel lack or maybe spark loosing when riding near top speed(90-100 km/h) on WOT.
There is some jerks and delays in engine working.
And it becomes worse if I continue to hold WOT.
If I close throttle for a few moments and then WOT again it turns better but not for a long time.
Hope it is not seizes...

What I done:
• Changed spark plug - not help
• Changed CDI - not help
• Check ignition timing with strobe - all was ok
• Check air hole in the tank cap - all was ok

Next I will check fuel tap(SiP fast flow 2.0), hose and carburettor.

Maybe someone have some suggestions?

yes, time the fuel flow from the tank, how much time for 1 pint? important for checking the tap and/or vent

after that - maybe going to need to pressure check that engine

Did flow tests with open and close cap. On this position maybe not very accurate but both times it was near 1 min. 20 sec. for 1 L(2 pints)

Carb was clear everywhere, anyway I give it good clean again. I also cut 3.5 cm of fuel hose. And went up on main jet from 107 to 109 because plug look bit lean as for me.

Tested today and nothing changed.

You mean compression test?

Not a compression test but a pressure test to see if you have leaks. You plug the exhaust and intake and apply gentle pressure (10 psi) and then see if it drops over time.

I haven't tool for leak test. BTW engine is absolutely clean and dry everywhere. So can assume inside case leak maybe. But engine done only 1500 km after full rebuild. Strange.

I changed fuel tap to OMG.
And done flow test again. For pour 1 L it needs 2 min 20 sec(!) So SIP tap obviously better. Anyway I had ride with OMG tap and all was the same for sure. Or even worse.

IDK what to do next...upset.

I decide do go back to SIP fuel tap. And noticed that it have only one hole on the top of plastic filter. I'm clearly remember that three other SIP taps I was hold in my hands had two holes.
On my tap it looks like obviously must be second hole but it was blanked with thin plastic production defects. So it was absolutely easy to made that hole.

Serious About Air Leaks

It's pretty easy to make the tester but I'm not sure how easy it is to get things in your area these days, given the war.

The fuel starvation problem still not sorted. But at east now I know that this exactly fuel starvation problem.

I changed spark plugs and caps, HT wires and CDI's, air filter, fuel hose, fuel tap, checked ignition twice. Cleaned carb.
Drilled bit large holes in the tank cap and soaked it in solvent for day then cleaned it with compressed air as best as I can.
Nothing really helps.

When tank is full scooter rides nice. But when there is +/- half - problem is appears. On the WOT it does not gain RPMs and if I holding WOT for a time it simply stalls. If I let go and then open the throttle again, it possible to ride but with lack of power and speed.
And the less fuel in the tank, the stronger the problem progresses.

If you begin from cold with 1/2 or less fuel in the tank, what happens? If there is fuel starvation with a cold engine, it will run absolutely terrible.

When it happens at wot next time, switch off the ignition immediately, stop and take a picture of the spark plug. There will almost certainly be a big clue there.

Yes absolutely terrible. Engine starts easy but working very unstable and often stalls after 10-20 seconds. When it comes warmer all turns better.

I assume you tested the fuel flow at the height of the carb and all was good.

This only leaves some problem with the float bowl. Maybe something blocking the float? Wrong float needle? Breather hole covered? Anything that affects fuel height in the bowl, that higher tank gravity would overcome. When you find it it will be a "d'oh" moment.

Today I will take off carb for clean and look it closely. Carb is almost new.

Breather hole you mean in the tank cap? Or there is another one in the carb?

Check all the passages in the carb for blockages.

I don't know the Dellorto side draft carbs, so I can't advise specifically what, but I assume it has a banjo, float bowl, float and float passage. Any of them could have something blocking it.

When I test fuel flow through a system, I do it including the carb's float. Remove the float bowl and test what flow would be 1) into the bowl; and 2) into the main jet itself (remove the float & needle and let the fuel run out into the venturi) if you *really* want to know your fuel flow.

When I was chasing fuel starvation on my P200, went through all the same troubleshooting you just have. In my case, I discovered that the Worb5 carb's float passage wasn't actually drilled like it was supposed to be. Once I drilled that out, though, my fuel starvation issues instantly resolved themselves.