OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
Also, a little shameless self-promotion, but I did a number of youtube videos as I was fumbling my way through paint & bodywork.

Fixing the GL and the VBB RestoMod both cover a lot of paint and bodywork (mis-)adventures.
These are brilliant and show the struggles of the home DIY'er perfectly 👍 I definitely learnt something from them.
@socalguy avatar
UTC

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7814
Location: So Cal
 
bodgemaster
@socalguy avatar
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7814
Location: So Cal
UTC quote
It's not my thread, it's by a forum guy named Lynnb who was unbodging a bodge. He'd never done body work or used a spray gun before. He asked a lot of the same questions you're asking. Got a great result.
@colinbelgium avatar
UTC

Addicted
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6T
Joined: UTC
Posts: 722
Location: Belgium
 
Addicted
@colinbelgium avatar
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6T
Joined: UTC
Posts: 722
Location: Belgium
UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
What's that you say about appliances?
What detergent did you use ? Regular all in 1 tablet ? I'm afraid to turn the aluminum black because of phosphates
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Innovator
63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3, 63 Lammy S3 Riverside
Joined: UTC
Posts: 12830
Location: Nashville

241 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Innovator
@chandlerman avatar
63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3, 63 Lammy S3 Riverside
Joined: UTC
Posts: 12830
Location: Nashville

241 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
ColinBelgium wrote:
What detergent did you use ? Regular all in 1 tablet ? I'm afraid to turn the aluminum black because of phosphates
No, that was pre-tablet. Probably the gel/squeeze Cascade, if I had to guess.
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Innovator
63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3, 63 Lammy S3 Riverside
Joined: UTC
Posts: 12830
Location: Nashville

241 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Innovator
@chandlerman avatar
63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3, 63 Lammy S3 Riverside
Joined: UTC
Posts: 12830
Location: Nashville

241 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
I just realized I forgot to include the forum threads that go with those videos...

Time to Go Plaid...the VBB resto-mod project and 63 GL: M1XL motor rebuild adventure

And this is a general discussion of paint and bodywork: paint how to thread

So lots of good tribal knowledge all around here.
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
Thanks for these.

Did another 6 hours of sanding today. What a pain in the ass that is! I'd say I'm 70% done. My wrists and forearms are like pop eye 😂 I can see why professionals charge over £1000. If fact, I'm not sure how any one can do that full time at all!
@orwell84 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4039
Location: northern New York
 
Ossessionato
@orwell84 avatar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4039
Location: northern New York
UTC quote
Best not to count the hours…or the money spent.
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
The trouble is, other people remind you

Bit of light bulb moment this morning while letting my son customise some cars in GTA.

They have a sort of Vespa/Lambretta model which you can infinitely custom with colours, lights, seats, livery etc.

For anyone trying to decide the above, this is a great tool.

Going to have a play around this morning to help me finally make a decision 😀
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Innovator
63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3, 63 Lammy S3 Riverside
Joined: UTC
Posts: 12830
Location: Nashville

241 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Innovator
@chandlerman avatar
63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3, 63 Lammy S3 Riverside
Joined: UTC
Posts: 12830
Location: Nashville

241 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
So did you decide to go with or without the guy following you everywhere holding a shotgun? Razz emoticon
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
There was a chandlerman engine mod I added so managed to give him the slip

Started working on the cowls today. Didn't think I needed to do any more welding for a bit. Wishful thinking 😤
Grrr
Grrr
This is rusted solid. Presumably the best course of action is to just heat up the bend to make it straight, remove and make good?
This is rusted solid. Presumably the best course of action is to just heat up the bend to make it straight, remove and make good?
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XL2 Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) 125 Super '72 DanMotor 150 Super and '04 Bajaj LML hybrid
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10116
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XL2 Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) 125 Super '72 DanMotor 150 Super and '04 Bajaj LML hybrid
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10116
Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
Quote:
... Presumably the best course of action is to just heat up the bend to make it straight, remove and make good?
I'd try heating it up and hitting it good w/ PB Blaster or Kroil, then wiggle pivoting it free before I would attempt that.
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
Was thinking it could be a pain to mask up to Epoxy primer though so wanted to remove it completely. That little bend at the end will stop that.
@orwell84 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4039
Location: northern New York
 
Ossessionato
@orwell84 avatar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4039
Location: northern New York
UTC quote
Japtastic wrote:
There was a chandlerman engine mod I added so managed to give him the slip

Started working on the cowls today. Didn't think I needed to do any more welding for a bit. Wishful thinking 😤
Wow. I just figured out why my cowls are so hard to get on and off…
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
The other side just about moves but is very close to seized as well.
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
Well, cowls are not fun to prep! Took flipping ages! But decided it's best to shoot the cowls first to get some practice before the frame. Got one fully prepped now ready for some paint tomorrow, hopefully.

Got some nice colours ready to go
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@socalguy avatar
UTC

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7814
Location: So Cal
 
bodgemaster
@socalguy avatar
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7814
Location: So Cal
UTC quote
If you want to practice, I'd suggest practicing on something like the gas tank.
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Innovator
63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3, 63 Lammy S3 Riverside
Joined: UTC
Posts: 12830
Location: Nashville

241 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Innovator
@chandlerman avatar
63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3, 63 Lammy S3 Riverside
Joined: UTC
Posts: 12830
Location: Nashville

241 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
Or the underside of the frame.
@orwell84 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4039
Location: northern New York
 
Ossessionato
@orwell84 avatar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4039
Location: northern New York
UTC quote
Backsides of cowls. Underside of mudguard. But, wow…look at you go!
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
Good tips, thanks. Will start on the back side first 👍
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
So, first stupid mistake, I'm sure of many. Forgot to add the thinners 🙈 and didn't twig that while trying to figure out why I was spraying/spitting a mixture of paint and cobwebs. I spent some time adjusting air, fluid etc and thought I had it dialled in enough so shot the back of the cowl. Actually came out similar to the factory finish. Very textured! 😂

Obviously no good at all for the other side so with the addition of the required thinners I'm hoping for a lot better results!

(Also, glad I went with the non-iso 2K paint as my beard does interfere with even the best fitting mask I can find)
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
Well after yesterdays cock up, I'm pretty pleased with the results on my second attempt for an amateur spray! The thinners made all the difference. Nice and glossy all over and not too much orange peel.

I have got a few runs to sort and some dust nibs. How successful can one be fixing these things after it's all cured?
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@orwell84 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4039
Location: northern New York
 
Ossessionato
@orwell84 avatar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4039
Location: northern New York
UTC quote
And that's why you start there first.

Often, that's where I put down the best coat…or the garage wall, a garbage can. Like my welding, it goes to shite when I point it at the machine itself.
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
Does this mean I can sand any drips and nibs 4 hours from the last coat and then re-coat anytime within the next 7 days?
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@108 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
V range 50s
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2427
 
Ossessionato
@108 avatar
V range 50s
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2427
UTC quote
I'd assume you're right.

But I'd check to make sure what touch dry and hard dry mean.

I doubt anyone is touching any paint after 15mins.

I usually wait for 24hrs before sanding drips/orange peel/dust nibs.

But I imagine it totally depends on the paint product.
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
Yeah will have to give them a call.

Seems odd that I can recoat up to 7 days as well, is that normal? I would have thought any chemical adhesion would be gone within hours?
@108 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
V range 50s
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2427
 
Ossessionato
@108 avatar
V range 50s
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2427
UTC quote
Maybe that's just the full cure time?

The topcoat TDS should mention something like 1-2 coats, @1-3mins flash time between coats.

As far as I know there's no chemical adhesion needed for a clear coat (that's if you're using clear coat).
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
So, found that most people wait 24 hours before sanding so that's what I did. Still need a definitive answer on the reshoot time.

Got rid of most the dust nibs with 2500 grit. Worked out really well.

Had to use 1500 on the runs but managed to nearly burn through in one area so will need to reshoot that soon.

Did a quick DA Polish after the sanding and I'll do some further orange peel correcting when I have time but for now I'm happy and proved to my self I can do it 😀👍
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Couldn't help it 😁
Couldn't help it 😁
@colinbelgium avatar
UTC

Addicted
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6T
Joined: UTC
Posts: 722
Location: Belgium
 
Addicted
@colinbelgium avatar
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6T
Joined: UTC
Posts: 722
Location: Belgium
UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
No, that was pre-tablet. Probably the gel/squeeze Cascade, if I had to guess.
I tested with an ecological tablet (no phosphate and no phosphatine), it works GREAT ! The aluminium is not corroded, doesn't change color. Just degreased and clean as f ! I' now confident to wash the engine block.

Just my 2 cents, could be helpful for others
@orwell84 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4039
Location: northern New York
 
Ossessionato
@orwell84 avatar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4039
Location: northern New York
UTC quote
That looks great. Probably less peel than the factory. If you flat back a whole painted part, you don't really have to worry about chemical adhesion. Just make sure the grit is coarse enough for another coat if it's not early in the recoat window. That window can vary a lot depending on temp, humidity etc.
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
Thanks, I'm well happy with the results and the ease of which the nibs came out.

Managed to speak to the paint manufacturer and I can re-shoot up to 7 days without flattening so that's good news for the little area I need to sort.

Next is getting the frame properly ready for paint. Much more challenging for sure!
@orwell84 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4039
Location: northern New York
 
Ossessionato
@orwell84 avatar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4039
Location: northern New York
UTC quote
Japtastic wrote:
Thanks, I'm well happy with the results and the ease of which the nibs came out.

Managed to speak to the paint manufacturer and I can re-shoot up to 7 days without flattening so that's good news for the little area I need to sort.

Next is getting the frame properly ready for paint. Much more challenging for sure!
I'd be happy if my paint came out that well, for sure.

Painting the frame is daunting…all those angles and curves. Fortunately, it's always possible to flat down runs or nibs, or do touch ups.
@colinbelgium avatar
UTC

Addicted
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6T
Joined: UTC
Posts: 722
Location: Belgium
 
Addicted
@colinbelgium avatar
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6T
Joined: UTC
Posts: 722
Location: Belgium
UTC quote
Japtastic wrote:
Thanks, I'm well happy with the results and the ease of which the nibs came out.

Managed to speak to the paint manufacturer and I can re-shoot up to 7 days without flattening so that's good news for the little area I need to sort.

Next is getting the frame properly ready for paint. Much more challenging for sure!
Before re shooting, make sure you scratch the surface with a 400 grit in order to make the new paint adhere well to the old one.
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
UTC quote
The frame looks so great! This will turn out nice.
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
Thanks all, I'm hoping so!

I'm nearly ready to stone chip the rear arch and floor but the inside of the supports still bother me that they are unprotected.

I'm contemplating making a hole in each and feeding the gun attachment down there to coat it all. The only thing holding me back is that they coated the new floor with oil to stop it rusting while being stored and shipped. I'm also presuming the oil is inside the supports but can't confirm. I, of course, can't prep the surface under there so not sure how well stone chip would hold. I don't want to make it worse but pumping a load of stone chip down there for it to flake off and trap water. What do you reckon?
You can see bare metal in there
You can see bare metal in there
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
UTC

parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6199
 
parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6199
UTC quote
If the chip coating doesn't stick to the inside of the channels (because of oil or what not), then that could leave a possible pathway for water to seep into and not let escape. Did you not clean that area before you primered the frame? I'd be more tempted to fog inside the channel with just primer and paint. The reason being is that the thicker chip coating would probably seal off small drain holes, and you want any sort of water that gets in there to be able to get back out very easily.
@orwell84 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4039
Location: northern New York
 
Ossessionato
@orwell84 avatar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4039
Location: northern New York
UTC quote
Honestly, I wouldn't use stone chip at all, especially not inside the frame or floor supports. Paint should protect the underside and wheel arch well enough.

I would just spray some waxoyl or WD40 in the supports every so often…after you paint it, of course.
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
whodatschrome wrote:
If the chip coating doesn't stick to the inside of the channels (because of oil or what not), then that could leave a possible pathway for water to seep into and not let escape. Did you not clean that area before you primered the frame? I'd be more tempted to fog inside the channel with just primer and paint. The reason being is that the thicker chip coating would probably seal off small drain holes, and you want any sort of water that gets in there to be able to get back out very easily.
Yeah this was my concern as well. Didn't want to make it worse by trapping water in there. Those supports are pre welded on so no way to clean inside.
UTC

parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6199
 
parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6199
UTC quote
Japtastic wrote:
Yeah this was my concern as well. Didn't want to make it worse by trapping water in there. Those supports are pre welded on so no way to clean inside.
For cleaning, i'd squirt lacquer thinner in them and swish the frame around a bit. Then do that a few times.
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
 
Hooked
ET2 + PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 162
Location: London, UK
UTC quote
orwell84 wrote:
Honestly, I wouldn't use stone chip at all, especially not inside the frame or floor supports. Paint should protect the underside and wheel arch well enough.

I would just spray some waxoyl or WD40 in the supports every so often…after you paint it, of course.
It's very common to do the stonechip in the UK as our roads are generally pretty rubbish, full of stones, salt and rain a lot of the year. This will be mainly used in fair weather but you can never be 100% sure it won't pee it down at any moment over here 😂 I'll have a think about the floor and rear arch.

I like your idea of spraying WD or similar down the supports every so often so will do that instead of any spraying paint or stone chip down there.
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Innovator
63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3, 63 Lammy S3 Riverside
Joined: UTC
Posts: 12830
Location: Nashville

241 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Innovator
@chandlerman avatar
63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3, 63 Lammy S3 Riverside
Joined: UTC
Posts: 12830
Location: Nashville

241 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
I'd spray some Ospho/Phosphoric Acid inside the supports before doing the paint prep. That's what I did on both of the scoots I've painted and

That'll galvanize it, which will probably protect it better than trying to squirt paint in there. Of course, you could shoot paint in there after you galvanize it, too. Nothing wrong with that.

Modern Vespa is the premier site for modern Vespa and Piaggio scooters. Vespa GTS300, GTS250, GTV, GT200, LX150, LXS, ET4, ET2, MP3, Fuoco, Elettrica and more.

Modern Vespa is made possible by our generous supporters.

Buy Me A Coffee
 

Shop on Amazon with Modern Vespa

Modern Vespa is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com


All Content Copyright 2005-2026 by Modern Vespa.
All Rights Reserved.


[ Time: 0.0156s ][ Queries: 4 (0.0076s) ][ live ][ 343 ][ ThingOne ]