Ossessionato
![]() 79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
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Posts: 4618 Location: Florence, OR |
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Here's an idea - hook up your old switch and turn on the key. You should be able to push the button and see the light go off...
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Fatbear5 wrote: ' The neutral light stays on through all 4 gears even when the brown wire is disconnected. No, I don't know how. I was tinkering with the wires and pulled the neutral bulb out of the speedometer. There were a lot of sparks and a little bit of blood and now it is working fine. I put it back together and all is good... and I'm not asking any questions. Next step is the headlight. It used to work and now it doesn't. I guess I'll start tinkering with the wires again and hope for sparks. |
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The neutral light wasn't working again yesterday, it stayed on through all 4 gears, but this morning it is working as it should... and again, I'm not going to ask why.
I did some checking and it looks like the Neutral indicatorand the Speedo lamp take a 3 watt bulb and the turn signal and high beam indicators take a 2 watt bulb. I have a bunch of 4 watt bulbs and I'm wondering if I can use them in place of the 2 and 3 watt bulbs. Any thoughts? My other P200 (Spermy) uses LEDs and I may change Red Rover over to them but I want to get everything working on the stock setup before I do that. |
Johnny Two Tone
![]() '15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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Posts: 9004 Location: San Diego, CA |
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sdjohn wrote: working then not working = intermittent short of the brown wire |
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Fatbear5 wrote: Yeah, that makes sense. I guess now its a matter of chasing wires... damn! I'm going to replace the spring and ball bearing but is there anything else I should do while I have it all apart. Everytime I start the engine, I get a LOT of smoke. The attached pic doesn't really show it well, but I can't get my video to post. ![]() |
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Fatbear5 wrote: Everytime I start the engine, I get a LOT of smoke. The attached pic doesn't really show it well, but I can't get my video to post. How many kicks to start it cold? |
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This morning it was one kick. Usually it's two or three. Choke is full on.
Often, it is harder to start when it is warm and sometimes I can't start it at all. I have no idea why. |
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Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
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Posts: 418 Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA |
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If it's harder to start warm you may have a fuel leak at the carb causing the atmosphere in the carb box to be rich. Take the lid off and have a look inside for evidence of fuel laying around. Usual suspect is the carburetor filter cover. Freak Moped has excellent videos explaining this issue and the easy fix.
Hec |
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No, no fuel leak. Everything is tight and the engine started on First Kick this morning. I'll check it later in the day to see what happens. I thought about a bad petcock but the one that I have now is new to me and it checked out before I installed it.
I'm still planning to replace the oil pump check valve when things warm up (Yes, I know we're warmer in Fresno than in Beaver Lake) |
Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, PX200 O tuned, PX181 M1XL, PX125 O tuned and some motorbikes
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4827 Location: London UK |
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Poor hot starting and white smoke. How's the gear oil level? These are the first signs of a work main seal. Worth a check.
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Gear oil is topped up and I replaced all the seals as part of the rebuild and I think I did them properly. Virtually no mileage on them. I'm hoping that a replacement oil pump check valve will solve the problem.
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Fatbear5 wrote: If anyone is upgrading to a SIP Road 3.1 and has a Road 2,0 or a Road 2.5 that they want to get rid of, I'd be interested in buying it for Red Rover. |
bodgemaster
![]() 63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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Posts: 7223 Location: So Cal |
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I have been starting Red Rover every morning (one or two kicks) and running it for a minute or two just to keep it fresh. Yesterday it wouldn't start until close to a dozen kicks and then it ran very slugishly. When it stopped running, I found a large puddle of oil on the clutch side. I don't know if it was 2 stroke or transmission... I can't tell the difference. I cleaned up the oil and today I started the engine up again using starting fluid and during the brief time it ran, it spit out oil on the clutch side.
I'm thinking that the clutch side seal might have failed except that I just replaced it and the new one has less than 15 minutes usage. True, it could have failed due to faulty workmanship (not the first time) but I'm wondering if it could be something else. Does the location of the spill give a clue? ![]() Oil splattered on tire and onto lift
![]() Most oil is directly below the exhaust but I don't think oil is coming from the pipe,
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Ossessionato
![]() 1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
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Posts: 4577 Location: Veria, Greece |
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SaFiS wrote: That's a float needle issue. Engine flooded overnight… |
Molto Verboso
![]() 1961 VS5T, 1981 P200E, 2003 Malaguti F12 Phantom,Rigid Frame Chopper, 2001 Harley FXDXT
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Posts: 1521 Location: Ventura, CA |
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SaFiS wrote: That's a float needle issue. Engine flooded overnight… |
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Oh. I didn't know the float needle affected the oil flow. I will replace the needle and the float before I start looking at the oil seal … much easier
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Fatbear5 wrote: Oh. I didn't know the float needle affected the oil flow. I will replace the needle and the float before I start looking at the oil seal … much easier Are you turning off the fuel tap overnight? |
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[quote="
Are you turning off the fuel tap overnight? [/quote] Yes, I always turn off the fuel tap whenever I park however I'm not 100% certain that it completely shuts off. After I replace the float and needle I'm going to pull the gas tank and check the tap. |
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Fatbear5 wrote: { Yes, I always turn off the fuel tap whenever I park however I'm not 100% certain that it completely shuts off. After I replace the float and needle I'm going to pull the gas tank and check the tap. |
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Fatbear5 wrote: { Yes, I always turn off the fuel tap whenever I park however I'm not 100% certain that it completely shuts off. After I replace the float and needle I'm going to pull the gas tank and check the tap. I know you've been starting it but if not riding and making the float go bumpity bump, it might get sticky. I would just clean it and see if that helps. Carbs get grungy from sitting. Before going through the trouble of pulling the tank, you could pull the hose off the carb and test whether the tap into a leaking. Either way, a properly functioning float needle should stop fuel flow all by itself. |
Molto Verboso
![]() '13 LML Star 200, '81 50 Special, '81 P 150 X, '87 PK 50 Nuova, '84 PK 50 S
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Posts: 1475 Location: Ukraine. Kyiv. |
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Fatbear5 wrote: I have been starting Red Rover every morning (one or two kicks) and running it for a minute or two just to keep it fresh. |
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My neighbor used to start his Harley up at 2am in the middle of the winter when he and his buddies were wasted. Then the CO alarms would go off. He is such a good guy, that I never complained.
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Ossessionato
![]() 79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4618 Location: Florence, OR |
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qascooter wrote: Was it this guy? ![]() Actually the photo you posted is probably a dentist or proctologist on his weekend off. |
Ossessionato
![]() 79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4618 Location: Florence, OR |
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orwell84 wrote: Actually the photo you posted is probably a dentist or proctologist on his weekend off. ![]() |
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qascooter wrote: That's Chong, from Cheech and Chong... ![]() |
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roland87 wrote: What goal are you pursuing with this daily starts? I've replaced the float and needle and I blew out the oil channels around the oil pump, although I didn't replace the check valve itself. I'm going to try to get out to give it a test ride later on today to see if that resolved my oil leakage and smoke issues |
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Fatbear5 wrote: I'm going to try to get out to give it a test ride later on today to see if that resolved my oil leakage and smoke issues I took a two mile run this morning and while there was the usual (but smaller) cloud of smoke at startup, it dissipated pretty quickly and looked like any other two-stroke engine going down the road. So far, no new puddles of oil so fingers are crossed. Next project is to stop the oil leak where the ring nut screws onto the oil tank. I'm thinking plumbers pipe tape, or maybe pipe dope but I don't know how they hold up against oil. |
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Has anyone installed the Fiamm Freeway Blaster horn in a P200? Does it fit under the horncast?
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Fatbear5 wrote: Has anyone installed the Fiamm Freeway Blaster horn in a P200? Does it fit under the horncast? In the early '80s the Vespa of America accessory catalog had two of these with chrome grills bolted to the side of the horncast.
Positive
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Fatbear5 wrote: I'm going to replace the spring and ball bearing but is there anything else I should do while I have it all apart. Everytime I start the engine, I get a LOT of smoke. When I start the engine first thing in the morning, I blow a hell of a lot of blue smoke which tells me that oil is seeping into the cylinder for some reason. (My neighbors think I work for the Mosquito Abatement Department.) Suspecting the oil pump, I swapped the carb and carb box with pump, for a known-good setup from Spermy and now Red Rover is not smoking. I've started it several times a day for three days and I took it on a brief two mile run (it's still too damned cold for a longer ride) and so far so good. I need to give it some more time before I declare the problem identified but I'm hopeful. Assuming that I need to repair the oil pump, I have yet another problem. Last week I removed the oil pump and blew out the oil channels but I did not replace the check valve or the O-ring on the oil pump shaft (Number 13 on the attached diagram). I can order a new check valve and install it but I am not able to find the O-ring without buying the entire pump and I don't want to spend $150 to get a 29¢ O-ring. I haven't actually pulled the pump from the body so I don't know if I really need to replace the O-ring but chances are it is worn. Besides, other than the check valve, there isn't anything else on the oil pump assembly to replace… is there? I'm wondering if I can find the appropriate O-ring at my local hardware store. Is there anything else that I should look for on the carb/carb box/oil pump assembly? Alternatively, does any one have an old P200 oil pump that they want to sell? I'd welcome any suggestions. ![]() |
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I was wondering about this myself.
Maybe they are included in a carb rebuild kit? I don't know if a viton o-ring is required or if a hardware store ring is fine. You could also measure the id/od with calipers and order from McMaster-Carr. |
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Fatbear5 wrote: Is there anything else that I should look for on the carb/carb box/oil pump assembly? Alternatively, does any one have an old P200 oil pump that they want to sell? Is there ANYTHING else in the carb box that could be causing Red Rover to be blowing out clouds of smoke? |
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orwell84 wrote: I was wondering about this myself. Maybe they are included in a carb rebuild kit? I don't know if a viton o-ring is required or if a hardware store ring is fine. You could also measure the id/od with calipers and order from McMaster-Carr. |
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Fatbear5 wrote: I haven't been able to find a used carb box/oil pump to buy so I'm going to see if I can find an appropriate O-ring locally. Then I'll replace it and the check valve Is there ANYTHING else in the carb box that could be causing Red Rover to be blowing out clouds of smoke? |
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whodatschrome wrote: The O ring store usually has waaaaay more options than mcmaster...and usually for less $$ too. |
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