GeekLion wrote:
I'm using an SIP Ultrastrong Cosa2 sport.
Anyway - really good clutch. I have same and after old six springs one it feel s like a very nice improvement.
Molto Verboso
![]() '13 LML Star 200, '81 50 Special, '81 P 150 X, '87 PK 50 Nuova, '84 PK 50 S
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GeekLion wrote: I'm using an SIP Ultrastrong Cosa2 sport. Anyway - really good clutch. I have same and after old six springs one it feel s like a very nice improvement. |
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The Dude
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roland87 wrote: Not Ultrastrong. It is SIP Cosa 2 Sport Clutch. Anyway - really good clutch. I have same and after old six springs one it feel s like a very nice improvement. * original post edited |
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GeekLion wrote: Next up was a new Fast Flow fuel tap from SIP. I went with the reserve light option, as I will add a light and/or digital gauge in the future. Lots of really nice touches on your scooter. |
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The Dude
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orwell84 wrote: What carburetor is that? One of the parts I'm considering for a mild engine using a Malossi reed case. Lots of really nice touches on your scooter. |
Ossessionato
![]() 79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62), 63 VBB (Storm)
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GeekLion wrote: Thanks! I'm running a Dellorto PHBH 30m. These carbs are a great upgrade and fairly easy to setup. I bet your scooter hauls ass... |
Hooked
1970 Sprint 150 & PX 200 / 225 and a shed full o shit
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The Dude
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PC73 wrote: Looking good! The P tailight looks way better IMHO |
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The Dude
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qascooter wrote: I think I'm going with one when I upgrade someday.... I bet your scooter hauls ass... running a Polini Box pipe now, so the power band it very wide. For fun I want to swap on a PM40 expansion chamber and see what happens... |
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The Dude
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Speaking of exhausts, I finished up installing the Polini box exhaust; and added spring mounts on the cylinder side.
![]() Custom Spring mounts. Chopped a nut in half, and zipped on both halves.
![]() Exhaust up! Springs hooked on to the cylinder and head.
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The Dude
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I extended and finished installing the Trailteck Tachometer wire.
I spliced and extended the preinstalled red wire, and added additional sheathing to cover; all the way back to the CDI. The tacho wire is then wrapped and tied to the spark plug wire. Works great and looks clean! I also made new connections on the cdi wires, and installed the new 8mm spark plug cable. The bright orange color is worth a few extra volts of spark!! ![]()
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The Dude
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Compression check: 145
measured with is a 1.0m (guesstimate) base gasket & a 0.5 (guestimate) head gasket. This is as I received it. I do not know the squish now. Malossi 210 cylinder kit, old style circa 1999. I'm not sure the exact head on here, not without pulling it to have a look. ![]() |
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The Dude
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roland87 called it.....
The fancy levers areAnotAsoGoodA The fulcrum point / grip point is to far away from the centerline of scoot. Atleast for my hands, they are not a good fit. I know others that run them happily. I swapped out both of the china special adjustable levers for the stock on MC side, and this oldschool Dogleg lever on clutch side. ![]()
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Molto Verboso
![]() '13 LML Star 200, '81 50 Special, '81 P 150 X, '87 PK 50 Nuova, '84 PK 50 S
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GeekLion wrote: roland87 called it..... The fancy levers areAnotAsoGoodA The fulcrum point / grip point is to far away from the centerline of scoot. Atleast for my hands, they are not a good fit. I know others that run them happily. I swapped out both of the china special adjustable levers for the stock on MC side, and this oldschool Dogleg lever on clutch side. |
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The Dude
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It's about time to swap out these old tires for something more betters.
I chose the Pinasco aluminum tubeless split rims, in black; and Dunlop Scootsmart Tires. The wheels are very nicely made, and much lighter than original steel. The tires are high speed rated, and very sticky. ![]() Wheels&Tires.... ASSEMBLE!
![]() Installing the Tire Valve. Using zipties as a pull-handle. A little tire mounting paste, and popped right in!
![]() Done and done.
![]() A generous amount of tire paste on the wide rim half and tire
![]() When dry fitting, I made alignment marks on the rim and tire with paint pen; to get the tire/rim exactly where I want it.
![]() Grease on the O-ring
![]() Bolted up! First step I used 5 long button head bolts to snug fit the 2 wheel halves. Then final torque with the 10 Allen head bolts.
![]() Final torque and Pin, before mating up the new wheel.
![]() Perfect fit!
![]() Here you can see the condition of the old tires and wheels. Worthy upgrade!
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The Dude
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Next up - refresh the front disk brake system, starting up top with the Grimeca Master Cylinder.
![]() The MC was leaking when I re acquired this scoot, and the hydraulic line was a snug fit through the headset top at best
![]() Spiegler brake line. Slight kink/tweak in the line as it passes through. It does not seem to cause an issue.
![]() All clean and ready to rebuild with fresh seals
![]() Rebuilt and back in place. New switch, and boot. I added clearance to the headset top for the brake line, as much as possible without breaking through or weakening it.
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The Dude
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Next stop is the stopper! Time to rebuild the caliper.
![]() Front disk as aquired. Pads are very worn, brake bleeder leaking, and overall just kinda rough.
![]() I decided to not only rebuild the caliper, but also swap it out for one in overall better condition. Old Caliper on top, newer Caliper on the bottom. I had to weld on socket to get the rusted Allen head bolt out.
![]() Reference photo for the direction of clip. Arrow goes in same direction as tire rotation.
![]() Caliper dissasembled and ready to build. It's 2 seals for the pistons, and an O-Ring.
![]() New caliper assembled and dry fit. Old caliper in my hand. Notice the rub mark where the hub studs made contact.
![]() The old hub studs and new longer button heads bolts hit the caliper in the same spot.
![]() Contact point marked and ready to file
![]() Caliper clearanced for the hub with room to spare. There is plenty of meat here to grind away, carefully.
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The Dude
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I used my MityVac to bleed the brakes. I highly recommend this method! It was very straight forward, quick, and easy to manage by myself. Took about 15 minutes!
![]() Bleeding the brakes with MityVac. The shock is unbolted to drop the hub down, for easier access to the caliper bleed screw.
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The Dude
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Along with fresh brakes front and rear, I'm doing new shocks too. On the front I went with BGM PRO, and the rear I used an SIP Performance shock; because I already had it in stock. I'm using Clauss Studios bushings for the front shock, to coordinate with the Clauss bushings in the rear.
![]() New BGM Pro shock, included hardware; and the Clauss Studios top bushings.
![]() Tightening up the lower bolts. Tight fit, but a great fit!
![]() Using a magnet tool to hold the nut & washer in place while installing the bolts.
![]() Installing the bolts
![]() Looks good and fits well. After setting spring pre-load, its very obvious how improved the suspension is from the old stock shocks.
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The Dude
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Just a glamor shots of the fancy new front end
![]() SoFreshSoCleanClean
![]() ![]() OldNbusted
![]() functional but... due for refresh
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The Dude
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With new brakes suspension tires, and alot of everything else.... Its time for a shakedown run!!!
I took the ole P out for a shakedown run around town, with great success! It was going well so I ended up cruising around for 60 miles or so! The weather was perfect, sun shining; and the P was running great the whole way. Started out easy, and the further I went the more I pushed it! Running through gears, feeling the carb; listening and using my butt gauge to feel the feels. I need a slight carb adjustment, as it drops a bit low @ Idle after running then slowing to a stop. Minor stuff. Overall I am happy with this build, and pretty much done with all the major parts of this build. Now its time to rack up the miles! ![]() We are finally out on the town, breathing fresh air tainted with the sweet sweet smell of 2stroke love
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bodgemaster
![]() 63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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Looking good!
Love your your work, clean, functional, no frills. Top marks! … but maybe the rear hub deserves some fresh paint to go with the new rims?
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Love this thread!
Do you happen to have the original color code/swatch? Had pretty good results with a micro brush touch-up. If nothing else, you can prevent rust creep. |
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The Dude
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SoCalGuy wrote: Looking good! Love your your work, clean, functional, no frills. Top marks! … but maybe the rear hub deserves some fresh paint to go with the new rims? I did think about painting the rear hub, but left it atleast for now. I'll go back thru and deal with paint touch ups later. TBH, I like the contrast of old rough and New shiny. Ray8 - thank you! I actually still have a can of paint from back in the day, so matching paint is not an issue. Micro brush is a good idea, I have plenty of brushes to choose from. |
Molto Verboso
![]() '13 LML Star 200, '81 50 Special, '81 P 150 X, '87 PK 50 Nuova, '84 PK 50 S
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Nice P and great work. Watching this thread with pleasure. Congratulates with your first ride out!
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The Dude
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I've been able to twist the throttle for 400 miles on my 1979 P200E. All of those have been fun and very meaningful. Some solo, some with friends; and I've loved every moment.
Today I... had a nice ride over to a friends house, and when I got home I chased down a suspected leak. I had seen a bit of oil leakage on the case earlier, and on the ride I noticed the temps to be a bit higher than usual. I run a trailtek temp gauge positioned on cyl stud, with usual running temps around 270. Today got up close to 300. I returned home and dove deeper to discover a cylinder head leak. Typical... Pulled cylinder head+cylinder to see what was really happening. The head was definitely leaking-No biggie. I also realized that the head gasket was a wopping 0.8Mm thick, in addition to the 0.75MM thick base gasket; which seemed like an odd choice for this Old-School Malossi 210 cyl. This engine is running a Pinasco head, on the Malossi cyl; a choice made long ago due to repeatedly burning holes in pistons, which the head swap fixed that issue. I know more now than then, and there are obviously more parts tuning available now than ever before. A deeper dive revealed more. The crank is aftermarket, most likely Mazzy; and I belive to be stock stroke 57mm. (the last time I had this engine in possesion, it was a stock Piaggio crank). Also found some strange cut-marks on the Rod & a bit on the cyl base sealing surface area as well. It looks like P.O. used a hacksaw or sawzall (lol) to cut something off the cyl base.... there are gouges in the engine case sealing surface as well as on the rod near the wrist pin... very concerning IMHO; and could be a stress point for breakage in the future. Why the heck would someone SAW on the engine this way....IDK... regardless, I am feeling like it is something to be addressed, and NOT ignored; but that also means alot more work than just resealing the head gaskets... BUT I dont want a mole hill to turn into a mountain. Perhaps its ready for a crank update, regardless of what my bank account advises. I will measure the port timing, squish, compression, etc. But I'm also feeling like this might be a deeper dive into the cases than I had anticipated. I do not want to grenade this engine due to unwillingness to do what must be done. Pics below because it defintley did happen, and seeking advise from MV brain trust. Ya'll rock, incase ya didn't know. It ran great until it didn't, as it goes. ![]() Just back from the ride. Hot day today, but the ride was fun if not a bit sweaty.
![]() fresh oil leakage tipped me off to more greater bigger larger issues
![]() lil bit O oil seeping from the cylinder head.
![]() Pulled the head, and this thick 0.8mm gasket. MosDef leaking for a short while. Piston top burn pattern seems ok, and no burnt oil under piston.
![]() double nutting the studs to then remove the Malossi 210 cylinder.
![]() Pulling the cylinder revealed the 0.75 thick base gasket and the crank.
![]() "Made in Italy" crank. And a GeekLion in the wild sighting
![]() Cut marks on the crank rod, near the wrist pin bearing
![]() Cut marks / gouges on the case; left and right side near the ports
![]() Also, these rub/abrasion marks on the side of the Rod
![]() A bit of marks on the cylinder wall. All visioal, and none of these can be felt with a finger nail. This cylinder is 20 years old, with thousands of miles on it
![]() another angle of the cylinder, with some marking.
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Ossessionato
![]() 1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
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Shit Pinasco head on a Malossi?? And why the 0.8 gaskets top and bottom?? Maybe a 60 crank in there?? Try the cylinder without the gaskets and see if the piston is poking out. Also, cylinder looks like it started delaminating on top which will eventually fail, but normal for that many miles…
I'd go for a full split, new crank or rod, maybe rings and I'd still run that Malossi with a better head though (MMW or something better)… You're probably burning some gearbox oil too (oil sucker problem)…
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Ossessionato
![]() 79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62), 63 VBB (Storm)
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Woah...dude.....who or what hacked on that crankshaft? How'd the case marks get there - pry marks?
I agree with SaFIS - time to split the cases and new crank. Hey, I've gotta clean case if you need it
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The Dude
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SaFiS wrote: I'd go for a full split, new crank or rod, maybe rings and I'd still run that Malossi with a better head though (MMW or something better)… You're probably burning some gearbox oil too (oil sucker problem)… Probably a few improvements along the way too. |
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The Dude
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qascooter wrote: Woah...dude.....who or what hacked on that crankshaft? How'd the case marks get there - pry marks? I agree with SaFIS - time to split the cases and new crank. Hey, I've gotta clean case if you need it |
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The Dude
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Style Maven
![]() '74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XL2 Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) 125 Super '72 DanMotor 150 Super and '04 Bajaj LML hybrid
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YOUR first P reminds me of MY first P, old 'Snake Eyes', my first serious 200. Almost like a first 'serious' girlfriend...
Quote: ... Also found some strange cut-marks on the Rod & a bit on the cyl base sealing surface area as well. It looks like P.O. used a hacksaw or sawzall (lol) to cut something off the cyl base.... there are gouges in the engine case sealing surface as well as on the rod near the wrist pin... very concerning IMHO; and could be a stress point for breakage in the future. Why the heck would someone SAW on the engine this way....IDK qascooter wrote: Woah...dude.....who or what hacked on that crankshaft? How'd the case marks get there - pry marks? ... Best plan is probably to take a skim cut to clean it up & compensate w/your spacer. But money & hassle suggest you fix it like you would a scarred rotary pad. I cut a 3rd port in an old 150 motor - a few gaps filled w/ epoxy, filed down & lapped flat are still working fine when welding and remachining was too much money & hassle for me ![]() Doesn't look like a saw cut here, it reminds me more of Brinnell hardness testing aluminum samples. But if you MUST, a strip of hardwood or plastic is your friend!
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Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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Nedminder
![]() 62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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Assume you will probably open up the inlet a bit - you know my fave numbers.
![]() Gracious, is your girlfriend mad at you?
What's that?
Your married?
Exactly!
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The Dude
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charlieman22 wrote: Assume you will probably open up the inlet a bit - you know my fave numbers. |
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The Dude
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Diving in and compiling the parts list. Thankfully nothing unexpected so far.
EFL gear stack is in excellent shape. Cruciform has some minor wear, that will be replaced while I'm in there. Primary gear teeth all good, I will most likely open and replace springs... * maybe its time for an Upgear ring... Selector bearing in good condition. Crank bearings will be replaced along with the new crank. Gear oil was thin and mixed with fuel. Safis called it - oil sucker. My 60mm stroke bell crank is being checked for true, at Hot Rod Scooters with the one and only Hot Rod AL! That will come back to me with 2 freshly machined cylinder heads. One for a box pipe, the other for expansion chamber. I like to have options. Most likey the wasp will stay this way for a few weeks or more, until I have all the new parts and am ready to build. I'll pull the lump to clean and build, but this way keeps it as a roller to move around the shop. Pondering wether to upgear or not. Current gearing is stock, with a #22 Cosa clutch cog. Currently running a older Polini box pipe, but that may change. Pulls well through all gears, nice and torquey. tops out full tilt just shy of 80. Probably just leave it as is, but worth pondering... ![]() Breakin it down. I liked seeing Qascooter's method of little buckets for organization - because I've been doing the same for years! I save alot of these diary buckets for all kinds of uses!
![]() So far looks good
![]() Bit o wear n tear. Easily replaced.
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Johnny Two Tone
![]() '15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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if you're topping out near 80, I'd leave well enough alone. you will reduce the fun factor while chasing a few useless MPH that you don't need.
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The Dude
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Planned upgrades for this build. Some already happening, some just hypothetical
Crankshaft: 60m stroke mazzy bellshape Cylinder head machined for Malossi Vape DC variable ignition New exhaust (which one?....) new primary springs new cruciform I'll also be ordering other miscellaneous parts at the same time, like a few rubber bit and possible a new seat, headlight unit, few rubber bits, etc. ⚠️ Last edited by GeekLion on UTC; edited 1 time
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The Dude
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sdjohn wrote: if you're topping out near 80, I'd leave well enough alone. you will reduce the fun factor while chasing a few useless MPH that you don't need. |
Ossessionato
![]() 79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62), 63 VBB (Storm)
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Looking good brother!
Tomorrow Chris and I are going to pull the jug off Ruby and replace the rings. The cylinder base has been leaking and I want to just seal it up, and might as well do the rings - almost 12k miles so far... You are always welcome! |
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