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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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The Dude
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Squish is set and tope end sealed up. I used a 0.3mm base gasket + 1.5mm head gasket to get the squish right at 1.1mm. Light skim of Yamabond on the base, and a very light skim of Copper RTV on the head. I'll let it cure overnite then its Leakdown test time.
All together and waiting for the Leakdown test
All together and waiting for the Leakdown test
Checking the squish. Solder set right across the wrist pin .
Checking the squish. Solder set right across the wrist pin .
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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The Dude
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Well.... air leak down test failed. The clutch side crank seal leaks on the outer edge. Which means I get to break it all down again, and replace that. While I wait for a new seal to arrive, I'll keep busy with other things...

I'll admit that I believe this to be builder error. As we know, there are 2 types of clutch side seals for 2 different types of cases, rubber edge and metal edge. I'll admit that I have used these 2 different seals interchangeably in either type of case, without issue before. I know I know... it's sacrilege, but if it works it works. This time it obviously didn't work, so now I wait for the correct RUBBER edge seal. Lesson learned Facepalm emoticon
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UTC quote
The exact reason why I stock both types on my shelf at home
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UTC quote
GeekLion wrote:
Well.... air leak down test failed. The clutch side crank seal leaks on the outer edge. Which means I get to break it all down again, and replace that. While I wait for a new seal to arrive, I'll keep busy with other things...

I'll admit that I believe this to be builder error. As we know, there are 2 types of clutch side seals for 2 different types of cases, rubber edge and metal edge. I'll admit that I have used these 2 different seals interchangeably in either type of case, without issue before. I know I know... it's sacrilege, but if it works it works. This time it obviously didn't work, so now I wait for the correct RUBBER edge seal. Lesson learned Facepalm emoticon
I started using locktite 603 after a new seal failed. Sometimes they just leak.
UTC

Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, PX200 O tuned, PX181 M1XL, PX125 O tuned and some motorbikes
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Jet Eye Master
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UTC quote
orwell84 wrote:
I started using locktite 603 after a new seal failed. Sometimes they just leak.
Great for metal seals. Much less good for all rubber!
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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The Dude
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UTC quote
orwell84 wrote:
I started using locktite 603 after a new seal failed. Sometimes they just leak.
I also used 603, but still leaked. A new proper rubber seal should do the trick.
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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UTC quote
Well…..since I live in Oregon, when it rains it rains and rains and hails and rains then dumps out like Hurricane Harbor. Or however that saying goes.

My new rubber seals arrived, along with a variety of cylinder gaskets. Thanks to Qascooter for the backup assist from his personal stash. Clap emoticon

I got down to splitting the cases to fix my not-so-rookie mistake. I got all the gasket surfaces clean, and old seal removed ready for install. When I noticed something…not great… a tiny crack near the rear intake stud hole. Further inspection confirmed, there is a crack running vertically along the hole.
Even further inspection revealed paper thin aluminum, which opened up into a void. Nice.

This was already previously repaired with a helicoil, which has heldnup fine for a while, clearly no longer. That rear stud is 50% of the holding power, and if it wont hold a thread, it wont seal. and I think this thing is toast.
Fresh seals and various gaskets
Fresh seals and various gaskets
Case splitter doin its thing. Love this tool!
Case splitter doin its thing. Love this tool!
Clean cases ready for reassembly.
Clean cases ready for reassembly.
Cracked case, rear intake bolt hole, and open void at bottom of crack.
Cracked case, rear intake bolt hole, and open void at bottom of crack.
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UTC quote
Damn dude - that sucks! Are you going to have it rewelded?
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The Dude
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UTC quote
qascooter wrote:
Damn dude - that sucks! Are you going to have it rewelded?
I'm not sure yet, still processing the new data. Re-welding also means re-machining, tapping the hole and decking the surface. Which also means much more time, as I'd have to send it out. Plus, I am less confident about longevity.

Although I hate walking away from something like this, I could go nuclear and swap the cases for another set from the stash. These also already have material added for a big reed. The pad wash thrashed, otherwise cases are untouched as far as porting.
Backup cases from the hoard.
Backup cases from the hoard.
TIG welded material added for opening up a reed intake.
TIG welded material added for opening up a reed intake.
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UTC

Molto Verboso
'07 GTS250, '07 LX150, '81 P200E, '78 P200E, '74 VBC1, '64 V90 and 3 Ciaos
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UTC quote
Damn man, that stinks!

I'm leaning towards Camp Weld too. My biggest concern would be cleaning the heck out of it first to ensure minimal porosity/inclusions and best penetration.
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UTC quote
Wow sucks about the cases but better to find it now than further down the line. And so great you have another in the stash! It has provided Clap emoticon
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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UTC quote
Collecting (aka focused hoarding) does have its benefits. I was kinda saving these other cases for another project, but nothing specific; so I guess this is what they are for
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
MF! Definitely not enough meat to support a stud there. If it were mine I'd weld it up, leave it proud, tap and helicoil. Any welding will be softer than the original casting so extra metal will help and hopefully won't change performance enough to cry about. My 2c.
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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UTC quote
BajaRob wrote:
MF! Definitely not enough meat to support a stud there. If it were mine I'd weld it up, leave it proud, tap and helicoil. Any welding will be softer than the original casting so extra metal will help and hopefully won't change performance enough to cry about. My 2c.
I agree. Although anytime I've had welding done in this area the gasket surface has warped. Hard to tell till its on the mill being cut
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
GeekLion wrote:
I agree. Although anytime I've had welding done in this area the gasket surface has warped. Hard to tell till its on the mill being cut
That's the bummer part, definitely going to be some warpage after welding. Nature of the game. These crazy scoots have us by the tonsils at times. And people say boats are money pits. At least my boat feeds me if I do my part.😁
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UTC quote
So…. I did a thing
Italian Lion
Italian Lion
Malossi VR One in the Lions Den
Malossi VR One in the Lions Den
So much room for activities
So much room for activities
Big Ole Hole
Big Ole Hole
MRP Reedblock for RD350 reed. The 4 bolt mounting on these cases is a nice improvement.
MRP Reedblock for RD350 reed. The 4 bolt mounting on these cases is a nice improvement.
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UTC quote
For the record, I'm not completely abandoning the old cases. They are simply moved to the Deal with Later pile.
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UTC quote
Those look amazing! Congrats and good call
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UTC quote
Wooohooo! Now this is getting really good! Popcorn emoticon
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UTC quote
I think you made a great choice. My decision to buy the same case was easier as I didn't have a case to start with. Even if I had an ok spare stock case, I still would have considered it worth it.
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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The Dude
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UTC quote
orwell84 wrote:
I think you made a great choice. My decision to buy the same case was easier as I didn't have a case to start with. Even if I had an ok spare stock case, I still would have considered it worth it.
I think so too. I'm tired of messing with the cases which all have issues. I'll see about fixing those for some future use.
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UTC quote
GeekLion wrote:
So…. I did a thing
Good lord that's crazy town! Good on ya!
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UTC quote
This is definitely in the "pay once, cry once" territory.

Which top end will you be fitting on this one? Keeping the Malossi Sport ?
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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The Dude
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UTC quote
FINYoshi wrote:
This is definitely in the "pay once, cry once" territory.

Which top end will you be fitting on this one? Keeping the Malossi Sport ?
100%! Keeping the Malossi Sport, 60mm bell crank, RD reed, 30phbh carb, efl gears, etc. Basically just moving all the internal components into these new cases.
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UTC quote
GeekLion wrote:
100%! Keeping the Malossi Sport, 60mm bell crank, RD reed, 30phbh carb, efl gears, etc. Basically just moving all the internal components into these new cases.
This is pretty much the combo I'm finishing up. The idea was something that could operate in the upper limits of the stock engine for a prolonged period in a reliable way. None of the components really push the performance envelope, but are all proven and have been around for awhile. Lots of feedback around from folks who have successfully set up similar combos. Hard and soft replacement parts are easy to find.

Of course, I enjoy following along with the newest and fastest. But at this point along the Vespa learning curve I'm happy to leave that to the more experienced and adventurous builders among us.

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