Modern Vespa

Hello!


What to do if the opening on a newly installed headset is too wide to be able to tighten and fit it well onto the steering column?

Where was the headset made? Is it new original, used original, or new reproduction?

New reproduction. I think there are no new original headsets available any more.


But anyways it ascended to the Vespa heaven at 40Nm.

wow. what a bummer. I was literally just about to warn you about over tightening it. I have one that's broken just the same.

it's NOS, so I just can't bring myself to throw it out.

That's a total bummer. You might try looking for a used original one. New stuff just isn't what it's cracked up to be (pardon the tasteless pun).

Would a shim material have worked wrapped around post and say epoxied to headset side. Then maybe a gentle squeeze and let it setup?

First it was my carb and now this, your spidey senses to warn are weak these days…

I kid, I kid. You're just a bit too slow

Low temp alloy solder repair?

Wow, someone would really try to repair that?

It was just a waste of paint.

I'm sure it's been done.

to do it right, unless it was some ridiculously rare piece the economics of a safe repair would swiftly outstrip any savings over sourcing another piece.

Sent it to Indo, they will fux it reet arp

Update on the Headset Saga:


I was able to get a replacement, a used original headset with 3C code written in it. There's a mysterious cutout at the shifter side of the speedo pit.

















Closeup at the 3C code









I cut off the century-old handgrip and removed some mummified hockey tape.













The mysterious cutout in closeup

I imagine that it fits correctly. That clamp is designed to just barely close and bind up an already snug fit. There is no flex in cast alloy.
I am curious as to what the 3C code signifies. No clue on the cut-out but it sort of looks factory in the picture.

What's the torque setting for the retaining bolt actually? I don't want to overtighten it later.

I don't have the spacific torque but I snug it up to where the headset binds to the column and it doesn't turn with the wheel held from moving, and then just a bit more to set it. There really isn't a whole lot of force on it and if it moves, just give it a bit more. There should be a flat washer and a spring washer under it. Lock washers should not be put against alloy.

The funny thing is that when I looked around the web for pics I found that many of these headsets have the strange cutout but not all.

Kiwi VBC (& 1984 Japanese Smallies) have inserts in the bars for fitting bar-end indicators

Mysterious cut out: Where the return spring goes?

I was having the same loose issue with my repro headset. I fixed it using some HVAC stainless tape. Just thin enough to get the headset back on. Perfect. Too late for you sorry but maybe helpful for someone