OP
UTC

Lurker
LX150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3
Location: Chicago
 
Lurker
LX150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3
Location: Chicago
UTC quote
Hey Everyone -

Long time lurker and finally got courage up to take on some of the stuff needing fixing. Thanks for a great community that has been a great resource. Got almost all the right parts ordered and dove in this weekend.

I have run into one particular problem I am curious to see if anyone has any fixes for.

The turn signal switch had been broken off the mounting posts from the rear handlebar cover. See pictures attached. Is there a way to fix this using the current cover or do I need to find a new cover? I found one on ebay that matches the blue I have but it is $175 so want to exhaust if I have other options first.

Also, the top of the gearbox dipstick broke off - any clever ways to get this out? Was thinking maybe glue something to the top and use that to get it out.

Thanks for all your help in advance!
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Gearbox dipstick
Gearbox dipstick
@steelbytes avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
2019 GTS300 Supertech E3 60,000km
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5706
Location: Batmania aka Melbourne, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@steelbytes avatar
2019 GTS300 Supertech E3 60,000km
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5706
Location: Batmania aka Melbourne, Australia
UTC quote
beneteaulx150 wrote:
The turn signal switch had been broken off the mounting posts from the rear handlebar cover. See pictures attached. Is there a way to fix this using the current cover or do I need to find a new cover?
I would think a lump of epoxy where the mounting posts were and then drill a small diameter hole into that would allow you to rescrew into place. maybe scratch up the surface of where the epoxy will stick to the cover so as to give it extra good purchase (after cleaning). Otherwise could drill a hole from the outside of the cover and put a bolt through
@znomit avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
LX190 Friday afternoon special, [s]Primavera[/s], S50, too many pushbikes
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Posts: 10345
Location: Hermit Kingdom
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@znomit avatar
LX190 Friday afternoon special, [s]Primavera[/s], S50, too many pushbikes
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10345
Location: Hermit Kingdom
UTC quote
Did the dipstick break because it was stuck?
@berto avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
2006 LX150 (carbed) | 2007 GT200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1928
Location: Toronto
 
Molto Verboso
@berto avatar
2006 LX150 (carbed) | 2007 GT200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1928
Location: Toronto
UTC quote
beneteaulx150 wrote:
The turn signal switch had been broken off the mounting posts from the rear handlebar cover. See pictures attached. Is there a way to fix this using the current cover or do I need to find a new cover?
Assuming the cover is ABS plastic like other panels, you should be able to use plumber's cement to chemically "weld" those studs back on. Here's an example where I did similar with glovebox mounts: A repair for broken glove box hinge mounts
beneteaulx150 wrote:
Also, the top of the gearbox dipstick broke off - any clever ways to get this out? Was thinking maybe glue something to the top and use that to get it out.
Maybe penetrating oil and a punch+hammer to gently rotate it out by tapping on it in the right way?
UTC

Hooked
LX150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 204
Location: Belle City
 
Hooked
LX150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 204
Location: Belle City
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I might carefully drill a couple of small pilot holes part way through the dipstick and then install some self tapping screws that could be turned with a wrench.
Or use an adjustable pin spanner.
Or if I were in a hurry I might heat up a big old slotted screwdriver with a MAPP gas torch and push it into the dipstick part way and turn it after it cools down.
@steelbytes avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
2019 GTS300 Supertech E3 60,000km
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5706
Location: Batmania aka Melbourne, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@steelbytes avatar
2019 GTS300 Supertech E3 60,000km
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5706
Location: Batmania aka Melbourne, Australia
UTC quote
for oil stick: dremel cut slot with small diam cutting wheel and then flat screw driver. don't cut full width as you'd damage the metal thread of the casing
⚠️ Last edited by SteelBytes on UTC; edited 1 time
@slowpoke avatar
UTC

Hooked
1952 allstate (early), 1958 allstate, 2009 S150, 2001 ET2
Joined: UTC
Posts: 226
Location: CT
 
Hooked
@slowpoke avatar
1952 allstate (early), 1958 allstate, 2009 S150, 2001 ET2
Joined: UTC
Posts: 226
Location: CT
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Abs plastic cement will be able to make a chemical bond for a new mounting bracket for the headlight switch. As far as your rear dipstick I would only replace it once you need a new rear tire. To remove it most likely will cause some plastic to get inside the case. It is easy to remove the side panel if needed to but requires the exhaust and rear tire removed first.
@abner_bjorn avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
2007 GT200, 2008 Yamaha C3, 2009 BV250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1146
Location: Denver
 
Molto Verboso
@abner_bjorn avatar
2007 GT200, 2008 Yamaha C3, 2009 BV250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1146
Location: Denver
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I've had great results casting those sheared mounting tabs with original jb-weld. Scuff the area real well and clean with alcohol. Make a form. Use a straw, or I often drill a hole through a paint stick, cut a little square and tape it in place. Mix the jb-weld and pour into the form. It's self leveling, so you have to let the piece rest in the correct position. 24 hours later remove the form, and drill your holes. I like the idea of using a dremel tool to cut a slot on the dipstick. If it broke off while you were trying to unscrew it, glue will not work.
OP
UTC

Lurker
LX150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3
Location: Chicago
 
Lurker
LX150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3
Location: Chicago
UTC quote
Wow! Thank you all for the great responses.

1. The tab for the gearbox oil dipstick was gone. Not sure how long it has not been on there. Likely will try the dremel tool idea.

2. Abner_bjorn - For the form - are you basically saying make a mold for the JB weld? Something about the same size as what snapped off?
@abner_bjorn avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
2007 GT200, 2008 Yamaha C3, 2009 BV250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1146
Location: Denver
 
Molto Verboso
@abner_bjorn avatar
2007 GT200, 2008 Yamaha C3, 2009 BV250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1146
Location: Denver
UTC quote
That is exactly what I'm saying. The first photo is a headset mounting tab on a Buddy. I can't show you the repaired piece because it is on the scooter, but it was one of these. The long skinny post in the center of the photo with a hole in the middle of it. The piece had cracked in two about 9mm from the top. I used scotch tape to create the shape I wanted, and poured the epoxy into it. Once it was cured, I tuned the height with a file, and drilled the new hole. Be sure to drill in steps starting with a very small bit. Photos 2 and 3 are of a sheared alignment tab on a Buddy 50 front fender I'm rebuilding. I took a 1" square of paint stir stick with the thickness of the height I wanted. I drilled the correct diamter hole at close to the same angle. I was able to flip it over to the tab that hadn't broke to fine tune the form. Once I was happy with the form I taped it on all 4 sides in place. I drilled a 1/16" hole in the center of where the new tab was going all the way through the fender to give the epoxy more purchase. I'm repainting the fender, so this was not an issue. I mixed and poured the jb-weld and let it dry 24 hours. I used an exacto knife to dissect the wooden form, and fine tuned the nub with needle files.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
⬆️    About 2 months elapsed    ⬇️
@technomama avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
Vespa et4 leadier 125, Vespa Lx 50 2t
Joined: UTC
Posts: 86
Location: Vilnius
 
Enthusiast
@technomama avatar
Vespa et4 leadier 125, Vespa Lx 50 2t
Joined: UTC
Posts: 86
Location: Vilnius
UTC quote
I used to fix these hard plastics with a soldering iron with a sharp pointy tip. Tightly hold broken parts together and do the mess with hot tip around an area of the broke so the material from both parts fuse together. Smooth it out so no deep and weak areas afterward, and you're done! Epoxy would not hold that good, but it may work too.
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