Modern Vespa

Hi to everyone, I want to remove the led stop Lights fotm mp3 2014. I want to "steal" power for the Top box led

No need to remove the rear lights. The wiring for the rear lights runs behind the rear fender panels.

You just need to remove the grab handle and the fender. That's all.

BTW, it is a very bad idea to "steal" power from a vehicle that uses a Canbus electrical system such as your MP3.

Use the correct power breakout box aka power distribution module instead.

Here is an example

https://denalielectronics.com/products/elc-00-30000

Thanks for the replay, you mean the fender for the co passenger right? Then how can I remove the fender?

There is only the rear fender(s).

As I said before, remove the metal pilion grab bar, and then you can remove the fenders using a couple of Torx screws.

Be very, very careful with the painted plastic fenders. They are very delicate and fragile. Otherwise you will likely break the mounting tabs.

I only removed the right fender when I did my 3rd brake light install (when viewed from the back of the bike)

Thank you very much for the informations

I recently completed a similar Givi Maxia 3 top-case install with an installed "Admore E55 top case lighting kit" option recently this April 2023. I wish I took more pictures of the processes, I've attached the only picture I have from near the end of the project when I'd just finished soldering in the main 3 wires for the lighting kit to the rear-led running lights.

Its been a few weeks and a few hundred miles of riding since it was installed. No issues have surfaced yet. All lighting on my Mp3 (headlights, turn-signals, etc) has been updated to LED with the appropriate Euro spec turn signal flasher also installed.

This Admore system provided multi-LEDs that covered running-lights, brake-lights, then left/right turn signals mounted in the top box. It has an umbilical cable that contained a micro-controller with brake flasher (brake modulator) that needed to be wired into the Mp3.

The way I wired it into my 2016 Mp3 500ie Sport.

* Per sbaert you must be very careful and methodical in loosening then removing panels. I ended up not wholly removing the panels for fear of causing damage, rather I loosened it enough that I could safely access the wiring.

* Use electrical wiring safe cleaner to remove dirt and grim from the wires then let it dry completely before carefully pealing back the wiring covers.

* I opted to steal power from the existing brake and turn signal lighting. The Admore LEDs were very low wattage and trying to connect it to the main harness was beyond my skill level. It seems to have worked out fine.

* I selected the left side brake-light / running light for tapping into. This has a proprietary 3 wire water sealed plug that I wasn't going to risk tampering with. Of the three wires, one is running light, the other is brake lights and the center third wire is a common ground. Use the volt meter and some testing to figure out which is which then clearly label it before doing anything permanent.

* For the turn signals, the procedure is the same, use a volt meter to figure out which wire is which and then clearly label it as such.

* I opted not to sever the original wires to tap into them. Rather I removed a bit of insulation from a mid-point on the wire; the mid point because if I had messed up I could easily splice in a patch to fix it.

* Take care to plan how the wires will lay against each other so the resulting joint will not be under stress that would risk a future short, disconnect, or put stress on the wrapping leading to corrosion.

* The factory wires are very thin stranded copper wires. Make the connection with similar gauge stranded copper and solder it together for conductivity and strength.

* Once connected use good quality electrical tape with tight wrapping to seal it back up and protect against the elements.

* Fitment tests are important. Do several of them to plan how the wires will run, if any holes need to be drilled in the plastic (where, size, etc), and to make sure you have a plan for how it will all go together. For my installation it turned out did need to drill a pass-through hole in the plastic and do a bit of cable routing. Because of all the fitment tests and careful planning while moving at a slow, methodical pace it all worked out and fit together first try.

While your own wiring harness for the top-case LED lights will be unique, here is how it worked out for the Admore E55 kit. Make certain to test the wiring is correct BEFORE soldering anything together. Especially test all electrical connections, test LEDs light up, test everything before cutting or soldering.

* Blue and Red wires go together. Solder the Blue and Red together into a single wire. Recall the 3 wires that connect to the Mp3s brake lights. This single wire (combo Blue and Red) connects to the Running Lights wire.

* Purple Wire. This is the brake light and has a flasher in it. Recall the 3 wires that connect the Mp3s brake lights; connect this wire on its own to the one dedicated to brake lights.

* Black Ground Wire. From the same 3 wire connection to the brake lights. The middle central wire is the ground. Connect this Common Ground to Common Ground.

* Yellow and Green wires. These are the turn signals. You'll need to do some experimenting to figure out which is which then connect accordingly.

* Putting it together and the hole drilled in the plastic cover.
Look closely at the attached picture. You can see the hole drilled in the cover plastic so it would thread nicely up through the rear-grip bar gaps. I could have just run it outside the panels or took the long way around too. Drilling the hole (done very carefully with the plastic supported from behind) allowed for a cleaner look and setup. Make sure to do a fitment test to mark out where to drill the hole so you get a good result. You may have to (as I did) pre-route the wires through the various holes, passages, etc prior to putting it carefully all back together for it to all work.

Thank you too, already made it