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Molto Verboso
1974 Rally USA 200 1980 P200e
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Molto Verboso
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Can someone point me in the right direction for wiring my new BGM 12v voltage regulator to my old 1974 key under the seat, 6v Rally USA componants please. IDK if I should keep the baterry or not. I swapped the bulbs.

https://www.scooterhelp.com/electrics/wiring/VSE1.wKey.Batt.Blinks.B1977.pdf

I have a blue and a black coming out of the engine to the junction box ?

https://www.bgm-tuning.com/en/product/bgm666pxl-zndung-set-bgm-pro-12v-touring-vespa-px80-200-1984-px125-150-2011-cosa125-200-lml125-150-2-takt-2300g/

BGM CDI Mount Kit S0-7676252KT
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⚠️ Last edited by gatekeep on UTC; edited 2 times
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UTC quote
6V or 12v bgm regulator?

For 6V you can use this- Possible 1/2 batteryless 1/2 battery 70's electrical system

For 12V I'd ground one yellow regulator wire so you get 12V out the other yellow one. Plug that into the regulator and follow the BGM instructions.
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does anyone know if the BGM rectifier is a setup as a bridge rectifier internally?

here's how the internals of the stock one is setup: https://modernvespa.com/forum/post2154187#2154187

to get 12V you normally connect the two yellow wires as the input to a bridge rectifier and leave the white wire unconnected.
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my best guess for the 74 Rally (not the same as a 77 Rally) assuming you will keep it DC.

diagram of the stock 74 regulator connections:
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
https://modernvespa.com/forum/post2151282#2151282


connect the two yellow wires from the harness to the two "AC" terminal.
connect the brown and green/white from the harness to the "DC" terminal.
connect the white from the harness (that goes into R-R) to nothing, tape it up so it does not ground.
connect the red from the harness (that goes into R-R) to nothing, tape it up.
connect the black from the harness to the mounting bolt and to "Earth" on the regulator.

Note: don't connect the the two yellow wires with the little jumper as shown in the BGM pictures. this jumper is only for AC.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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Molto Verboso
1974 Rally USA 200 1980 P200e
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oopsclunkthud wrote:
my best guess for the 74 Rally (not the same as a 77 Rally) assuming you will keep it DC.

diagram of the stock 74 regulator connections:
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
https://modernvespa.com/forum/post2151282#2151282


connect the two yellow wires from the harness to the two "AC" terminal.
connect the brown and green/white from the harness to the "DC" terminal.
connect the white from the harness (that goes into R-R) to nothing, tape it up so it does not ground.
connect the red from the harness (that goes into R-R) to nothing, tape it up.
connect the black from the harness to the mounting bolt and to "Earth" on the regulator.

Note: don't connect the the two yellow wires with the little jumper as shown in the BGM pictures. this jumper is only for AC.
what about the junction box with the new black and blue coming from the new stator?
what about the junction box with the new black and blue coming from the new stator?
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UTC quote
what kind of "New Stator" are you running?
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oopsclunkthud wrote:
what kind of "New Stator" are you running?
Possibly

https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Complete-Stators/217866
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Molto Verboso
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Oooohhhhhh! I'm an idiot Razz emoticon I thought you still had the Femsa stator installed. Disregard the above.

Did you change the crank to a P style? If not, that system won't work.

If you did, then I'd recommend going batteryless as this will produce 12V AC and that will cause issues with the old 6V DC charging system/ accessories.

For starters, get a jewelers screwdriver and go from the backside of the white plug and push the little barbs that hold the bullet terminals on the blue/black wires. Then switch to eye terminals so it will mesh with your harness. Blue is AC out, black to ground. You'll also have to make a little jumper from the purple wire in the junction box to the second green slot on your new CDI (kill switch wire).

Then on the regulator side, yellow to AC in, black to ground, DC to nothing, and the AC out connect the harness green and green/white to it. If its not right, use the supplied Y connector and then do AC in/ green/green&white out off that.
⚠️ Last edited by MJRally on UTC; edited 1 time
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Quote:
what about the junction box with the new black and blue coming from the new stator?
Looks to me like the usual P style stator wiring, a fat blue w/ unregulated 12V and a black ground, the rest for the CDI. The two yellow wire stators I've seen are older 6V, and I've converted mine to 12V as described above.
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Molto Verboso
1974 Rally USA 200 1980 P200e
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UTC quote
MJRally wrote:
Oooohhhhhh! I'm an idiot Razz emoticon I thought you still had the Femsa stator installed. Disregard the above.

Did you change the crank to a P style? If not, that system won't work.

If you did, then I'd recommend going batteryless as this will produce 12V AC and that will cause issues with the old 6V DC charging system/ accessories.

For starters, get a jewelers screwdriver and go from the backside of the white plug and push the little barbs that hold the bullet terminals on the blue/black wires. Then switch to eye terminals so it will mesh with your harness. Blue is AC out, black to ground. You'll also have to make a little jumper from the purple wire in the junction box to the second green slot on your new CDI (kill switch wire).

Then on the regulator side, yellow to AC in, black to ground, DC to nothing, and the AC out connect the harness green and green/white to it. If its not right, use the supplied Y connector and then do AC in/ green/green&white out off that.
Thanks ! Yes, the crank has been changed along with the bulbs to LED. Did you have to change the fuses to 12v do I even need the fuses now ? Did you have to change the blinker to 12v?
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Molto Verboso
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*** UPDATE... Clap emoticon Everything works too well . I put LED's in and left the old flasher relay(they stay on more then they flash). Can someone please send me a link to what they replaced it with please? also the Rally horn sounds worse but noway I'm changeing it out. Any solution for the horn?
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A resistor of the correct size in series with the horn will drop it down to 6V.
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Great! Where did you ultimately connect things?
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Molto Verboso
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MJRally wrote:
Great! Where did you ultimately connect things?
I connected everything exactly like Patrick recommended on the regulator/rectifier side and what you recommended on the junction box. I also found a new 12v LED flasher. The blinkers work great! I'm going to have to figure out the horn situation.
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Molto Verboso
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oopsclunkthud wrote:
A resistor of the correct size in series with the horn will drop it down to 6V.
Can I get rid of the fuse box now? I want to clean it all up.
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gatekeep wrote:
Can I get rid of the fuse box now? I want to clean it all up.
Do you mean the stock fuse box?
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I personally find that one of the best looking parts of the stock system and did my best to keep it. I also added a fuse on the lead to the battery as well for safety.

You need at least one fuse between the battery and any loads.

Also, if you decide to remove the stock fusebox I would gladly take it off your hands.
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Molto Verboso
1974 Rally USA 200 1980 P200e
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
Do you mean the stock fuse box?
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I personally find that one of the best looking parts of the stock system and did my best to keep it. I also added a fuse on the lead to the battery as well for safety.

You need at least one fuse between the battery and any loads.

Also, if you decide to remove the stock fusebox I would gladly take it off your hands.
Thanks, Patrick I will look for another one I have a lot of Rally doubles.
I don't have a battery anymore. Do you need anything else?
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UTC quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
Do you mean the stock fuse box?
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I personally find that one of the best looking parts of the stock system and did my best to keep it. I also added a fuse on the lead to the battery as well for safety.

You need at least one fuse between the battery and any loads.

Also, if you decide to remove the stock fusebox I would gladly take it off your hands.
First time seeing that fuse box, same fuses my old VW bug used.
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