OP
@bernietime avatar
UTC

Hooked
P200, Stella, P150S, CH80
Joined: UTC
Posts: 106
Location: San Diego, California
 
Hooked
@bernietime avatar
P200, Stella, P150S, CH80
Joined: UTC
Posts: 106
Location: San Diego, California
UTC quote
So I've been running a PX disc brake fork on my rally for the last couple of months... fenderless.

I had some time this weekend and an extra fender to mess around with. The biggest issue for figment is the higher shock mount—similar to that of a PK fork.

So, what I did is I cut out the inner bracket of the fender and relocated outside of the fender. The dimensions and bends of this bracket were near perfect. I cut a line down right before the side bolt mount. Then I slowly starter tacking it in place.

I've probably have around an hour left of small spot welds and grinding until this is ready for a skim coat of bondo and paint.

PS, look how many colors my rally is!
PPS, look my rally is electric Crying or Very sad emoticon
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OP
@bernietime avatar
UTC

Hooked
P200, Stella, P150S, CH80
Joined: UTC
Posts: 106
Location: San Diego, California
 
Hooked
@bernietime avatar
P200, Stella, P150S, CH80
Joined: UTC
Posts: 106
Location: San Diego, California
UTC quote
Also please ignore my off-centered, incorrect horn bezel Facepalm emoticon
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8959
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8959
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Ideally you'd cut down the fork by around 30-40mm, which will put the relationship between the wheel and guard into a more Rally-like alignment. Then you can fit a PK shock to get the swing arm back to an angle that looks a bit more correct.

You can buy (or make) a top shock mount that brings the top of the shock in a bit closer to the wheel. The BGM shocks (and Malossi shocks) sort of taper towards the top, so that also can contribute to a far less bulky mudguard bulge.

I've done all this on my Super, which if you recall has an even narrower width across the top of the guard than the Rally. And not much additional bulge needed at all.
UTC

parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5578
 
parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5578
UTC quote
Ginch wrote:
You can buy (or make) a top shock mount that brings the top of the shock in a bit closer to the wheel. The BGM shocks (and Malossi shocks) sort of taper towards the top, so that also can contribute to a far less bulky mudguard bulge.
Yes you can do that, but it's a really bad way of making a shock fit under the mudguard. The reason being is that when the shock is mounted at an angle like that, it puts quite a bit of side load on the shock shaft and shock seals when the suspension is cycled. It will then also transmit an unequal side load (though not as much) on the caliper carrier bearings and lower fork link bearings.


SIP sells a 10mm offset upper shock plate that will remedy the problem. https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/shock-absorber-base-plate-af-parts-front-top-la-keuk_17488900 There's zero way to work around not having a fender bulge and having a correctly working suspension. Yes, probably hundreds and hundreds of people have swapped disc brakes on oldie Vespas and haven't had any problems. Same situation for the shock when installing a wide tire kit, except i have read about cases where the rear shock's shaft has snapped off when the suspension was cycling (it also happed to my rear shock as well).

Some people are turned off by the bulge, but for things to work properly down there the bulge must be embraced!
UTC

parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5578
 
parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5578
UTC quote
bernietime wrote:
So, what I did is I cut out the inner bracket of the fender and relocated outside of the fender. The dimensions and bends of this bracket were near perfect. I cut a line down right before the side bolt mount. Then I slowly starter tacking it in place.

I've probably have around an hour left of small spot welds and grinding until this is ready for a skim coat of bondo and paint.

ummm...when you say "skim coat" of bondo, do you actually mean a Texas spread?
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