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@zachyzach avatar
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I began a preservation build project over the winter using the best parts from a pile of U.S.-import 1964 VBB2s with original paint that I've found over a few years around me in New England.

The frame came from a neighbor in 2020. She has a popular antiques business and she travels for picking (Vespa frame was found in a PA barn), while the rest of the project -- including the motor -- are from two other VBBs I pulled out of barns and storage lockers.

Everything I'm using is original Piaggio VBB: cowls, mudguard, headset & tubes, fork/front hub, front & rear light assemblies, all switches & hardware, yada yada, with body bits being the stock '60s Max Meyer blue, just needing TLC and a whole ton of it!

The frame was resprayed xx?? years ago with metallic blue paint, but the old robin's egg blue color was hiding underneath.

I have some prior restoration experience, since my current rider is a different original-paint VBB, with mildly tuned 177cc Pinasco kit, which I built from the frame up last year (no thread for that one, unforch...).

This current project here is my 6th engine build and 2nd complete scooter resto down to every nut, bolt and grommet.

But some tasks, such as the scope of body work/+ weld repairs, stripping spray paint off the frame, priming and blending new touch up paint in to fade with the original color, and restoring the floor rails and installing (NOS) rubber, are kinda new to me.

For the motor, headset and fork/hub, I'm keeping the build stock where possible and using decent new consumables, ya know: Italian wiring harness, points & condenser, new Mazzucchelli crank, bearings, kickstart gear, and cables & new stock style exhaust. I bought new 8" wheels 'cause I didn't have 2 good originals left anymore.

Cylinder and piston are Piaggio 150cc, but it's going to be dome piston not deflector, and I honed the cylinder walls and am replacing the rings. STock dell'orto 20/17c for this VBB.

Here is my starting point and then some of the tasks I've finished (and I'll add photos as I'm able):
I'm naming this VBB bitsa "Cindy" after my neighbor, who provided the frame. It was over-sprayed with a metallic paint, which I've removed to get to the good factory paint underneath.
I'm naming this VBB bitsa "Cindy" after my neighbor, who provided the frame. It was over-sprayed with a metallic paint, which I've removed to get to the good factory paint underneath.
What a mess! So much crud, twisted floor rails, and dents everywhere. But good bones to begin working with.
What a mess! So much crud, twisted floor rails, and dents everywhere. But good bones to begin working with.
VBB2 motor, never been touched.
VBB2 motor, never been touched.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Clean up only beginning here...
Clean up only beginning here...
⚠️ Last edited by zachyzach on UTC; edited 4 times
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The cowls, mudguard, headset and fork came from this guy -- another blue '64 VBB that I call "Ludlow."

Oh yeah, and motor as well. It was so dirty.

It had some scoring in the crank recess, as it turned out, which I later repaired, but the pad itself was fine.

Simultaneously, late in the year I started cleaning up "Cindy" with oil eater and a power wash. then I began removing floor rails to prep for stripping the spray paint from the frame and grabbing the hammer and dolly.
Ludlow and friends, several years ago. Ludlow's frame was super farmer-bodged with lots of drill marks presumably to get at the cables or wires inside the horncast and legshield part of the tunnel, so I didn't use it for this project
Ludlow and friends, several years ago. Ludlow's frame was super farmer-bodged with lots of drill marks presumably to get at the cables or wires inside the horncast and legshield part of the tunnel, so I didn't use it for this project
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After the first (or second?) cleaning up of the cases...

Also, looking over some 150 cylinders and 57mm pistons...

Meanwhile, inside the frame it looks pretty clean. Rust is minimal and surface based. It will later receive a scouring and an Ospho-ing session or three.
Some gouges and crunches are visible and will need attention...
Some gouges and crunches are visible and will need attention...
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The tunnel isn't all that spooky, rust wise!.
The tunnel isn't all that spooky, rust wise!.
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⚠️ Last edited by zachyzach on UTC; edited 1 time
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At the same time, I started in on the mudguard and fork assembly. Whether due to A.D.D. or just awaiting motor parts coming in the mail, I don't recall. Can anyone relate?

This type of mess is so common on these northeastern U.S. Vespas due to general moisture in the air, humid summers, wet cement floors in garages. Wooden barns are better for drier storage, if the roof doesn't leak -- like mine does.

Then stripped down the headset. Something (like a mirror holder thing?) could have been strapped over the paint years ago.
Rust-seized screws of course
Rust-seized screws of course
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First time opened in  59 years
First time opened in 59 years
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New fork/ hub bearings will be coming... also find a better original dampener and clean up the spring, new brakes and then reassembly.
I take more pics than I will ever use, but then sometimes you do find em useful
I take more pics than I will ever use, but then sometimes you do find em useful
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A lot of these VBB shocks are stamped GL
A lot of these VBB shocks are stamped GL
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With the front end all done, it's back to the cases. Began cleaning up the gauges gouges and chips. Filed, smoothed.

Rotary pad not so bad. Heated cases with a gun, cleaned with acetone, then skimmed the crank recess imperfections with JB Weld. Cured for days in the shop.

Replaced shock mount and swingarm rubber buffers.[/u]
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⚠️ Last edited by zachyzach on UTC; edited 1 time
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Good work and great documentation!

I'm in. Popcorn emoticon

Let me know if there are any pieces you need that you don't have. I just might...
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Touched up the stator and replaced points & condenser.

Installed main bearings on new crank.

Rebuilt motor and closed it up. I like the ScooterWest hot plate method, especially for VBB crank installs into the case.

Years ago I compiled a hand written cheat sheet from various sources (NSM Tips n Tricks, including from Oopsclunkthud and others) for steps to rebuild VBB engines that I keep on a cork board in my shop. I think this is my 4th such VBB motor (plus some Ps and supers).

Motor done. Started. Runs ok! (now, awaiting a finished frame, which is in progress!)
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
To install the main bearings, I use wrenches under the webs on the whole thing over a bench vise. This is some other old crank not the Mazz...
To install the main bearings, I use wrenches under the webs on the whole thing over a bench vise. This is some other old crank not the Mazz...
A little heat for the flyside seal...
A little heat for the flyside seal...
Protect the clutchside seal
Protect the clutchside seal
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⚠️ Last edited by zachyzach on UTC; edited 1 time
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V oodoo wrote:
Good work and great documentation!

I'm in. Popcorn emoticon

Let me know if there are any pieces you need that you don't have. I just might...
Nice of you, Terry! Thanks for the offer. I guess I'm fortunate that I can't immediately think of anything.

I'll be back later with more recent progress pics.
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External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Love it, especially the shut off valve overkill! Clap emoticon

So, I love me some old shabby paint! ...first up for the frame, what's the plan?


PS "... compiled a hand written cheat sheet from various sources...". How about posting up a pic so I can download it to my important stuff folder, my memory ain't what it used to be.
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V oodoo wrote:
Love it, especially the shut off valve overkill! Clap emoticon

So, I love me some old shabby paint! ...first up for the frame, what's the plan?

PS "... compiled a hand written cheat sheet from various sources...". How about posting up a pic so I can download it to my important stuff folder, my memory ain't what it used to be.
You got it. My list is nothin' fancy and my writing does seem small without my readers on my nose. But still, it helps me get ready for the big event.
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I'm changing the title to reflect the bitsa parts nature of this project. I'm lucky I have everything to complement the frame, at least I think so..., so far.

Also, body pieces are in the original paint, which I LOVE and prefer to modern paint jobs with these early 8" bikes.

Here's the glove box side cowl I'm using. Good shape but needs light rust treatment and some touch up paint. Photos show before I started cleaning the cowl up.
The "before" pic.
The "before" pic.
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On the frame, the metallic paint doesn't look too thick on here. Where's the acetone and a rag (and a mask and gloves)?

I started hammering out the dents and creases and folds in the frame over the winter and spent a while getting the floor back in shape too. A good body tool kit was a must.

I used whatever shop punches and drifts I could find also to straighten the floorboard edges. Also I just used my arms and sometimes a heavy shot hammer to bend and cajole different areas to move back where they used to be. Not many pics of this phase.

I did the same to the cowls and front fender. Speaking of the mudguard and the frame itself, there were a half dozen small splits here and there in the metal. So I rolled out the ancient Snap-On mig welder to do some repairs and then ground down the welds as best I could. I didn't stop to take very many pics.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Underside of frame near where motor bolts in...
Underside of frame near where motor bolts in...
Working on getting the settings right -- the sheet metal is so thin (~1mm) in some places
Working on getting the settings right -- the sheet metal is so thin (~1mm) in some places
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A pretty low voltage mig setting
A pretty low voltage mig setting
Meanwhile the frame is looking more original over time...
Meanwhile the frame is looking more original over time...
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Left side cowl caked on grime cleans up nice with careful use of a power drill and various bits with brushes.

Some Ospho treatment for the cowl interior. Getting ready to tape off the cowl for some touch-up spray primer later on.

With the frame and all of the body panels really (headset too), what I'm going for in the final result is to preserve as much original paint as I can, and then fade in some repaired areas with custom matched paint sourced locally.
Partway done...
Partway done...
That's even better.
That's even better.
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Ospho-treated. Let it dry a day or two.
Ospho-treated. Let it dry a day or two.
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VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
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Great job ! Clap emoticon
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ColinBelgium wrote:
Great job ! Clap emoticon
Thanks Colin!
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VNB VSC VMA VSX - o9c vmb vse
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Wow
What a fantastic reclamation of the OG paint. Very impressive all around.
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Thanks Birdsnest!

Progress has been slow tackling the occasional rusty spot and rips and dings in the metal while not effing up the OG paint goodness beneath the PO's rattle can treatment.

What has worked best for me is rubbing away the metallic layer using acetone and hand sized strips of old terry cloth towels. I sometimes beefed up the unpainting process in a couple spots using 000 steel wool, or a brass brush. For rust on the floor board, some drill & wire and/or nylon wheel action.

I had welded small splits on the mudguard and tail of the frame along the way, too. Don't have many pics of that I guess.

Getting there!
Can see a blend of OG color under the spray paint
Can see a blend of OG color under the spray paint
Easy does it with these.
Easy does it with these.
Remnants of a running-in sticker on legshied; starting to reach some bare metal on floorboard too
Remnants of a running-in sticker on legshied; starting to reach some bare metal on floorboard too
I want to leave as much alone as possible
I want to leave as much alone as possible
Periodically, I remove the acetone/paint residue with denatured alcohol and shop rags. Then, sanding the metal with fine grit wet/dry (maybe 180 and then 320?) and priming bare areas.
Periodically, I remove the acetone/paint residue with denatured alcohol and shop rags. Then, sanding the metal with fine grit wet/dry (maybe 180 and then 320?) and priming bare areas.
Mudguard front, I think?
Mudguard front, I think?
... and rear.
... and rear.
Light coat of filler primer on L cowl inside before I later blend in some topcoat paint over that.
Light coat of filler primer on L cowl inside before I later blend in some topcoat paint over that.
Filling. 
Sanding.
Filling. Sanding.
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Filling to smooth out the surface for topcoat and floor rails later on.

And sanding...
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Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
I like this spot putty. Dries crazy fast tho.
I like this spot putty. Dries crazy fast tho.
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Molto Verboso
Vespa
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Vespa
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Wow digging this
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64 V90 survivor '65 Allstate survivor. '75 V90 SOLD. '77 P200 SOLD
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Zachyzach
PM your mailing info and I'll send you a sticker. I have 2 originals paint ones and applaud your efforts.
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1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
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exmayor wrote:
Zachyzach
PM your mailing info and I'll send you a sticker. I have 2 originals paint ones and applaud your efforts.
Oooooo I need one of those for my bare metal Allstate! Can I get in on the mailing?
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exmayor wrote:
Zachyzach
PM your mailing info and I'll send you a sticker. I have 2 originals paint ones and applaud your efforts.
Thanks Ex M.
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exmayor wrote:
Zachyzach
PM your mailing info and I'll send you a sticker. I have 2 originals paint ones and applaud your efforts.

Ahem... How many of these have you got? I share the sentiment & could use a few too...Were yours custom made? I know it's been around for a while and your small size is perfect. In fact I bet many ppl here would like one, like the 60 on 8s sticker that one has to earn to get one from his Honor SoCalGuy, the official 60/8 Executive Administrator.

PS I also like the little Corradino D'Ascanio sticker you sent me some time ago. I took it to Greece to put on that old red smallie on the island that was my first Vespa(speaking of old paint...). We finally went back this year after 3 years away from the island mostly because of Covid.
Then I forgot it at my shop in Pireaus (south Athens) Livid emoticon.
way TOO BIG!
way TOO BIG!
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Photo update incoming.

Progress on the chassis:

No huge complaints on the floor underside. Pretty good shape!

I spent hours over the winter (and maybe spring?) months beating the frame back into its proper form. Whenever this bike was on the road before, it definitely was well-loved and got some knocks. I made repairs as I went.

Small rips welded and primed, mostly on seams and folds.

Good overall frame alignment -- no twist. The legshield & floor area is about ready for A) lite spot primer, B) spot touch-ups with topcoat, C) floor rails, legshield trim, badges, rubber grommets for cables and wiring loom.

Cosmetically speaking, a little ways to go, but in the end we gotta accept that with saving an original paint scoot, the final appearance won't airbrush out some dings and dents. C'est la vie.
Great shape but because of some bare metal areas, I decided I'll go ahead and primer and paint with the custom matched topcoat I ordered. I want that protection from road life.
Great shape but because of some bare metal areas, I decided I'll go ahead and primer and paint with the custom matched topcoat I ordered. I want that protection from road life.
I used an automotive primer over my little welds to protect the bare metal spots. The rest is factory original primer. It's hard to find a duplicate of this primer color off the shelf. Any suggestions? Will fade in topcoat later.
I used an automotive primer over my little welds to protect the bare metal spots. The rest is factory original primer. It's hard to find a duplicate of this primer color off the shelf. Any suggestions? Will fade in topcoat later.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Before more legshield sanding. I'll soon also blend in new topcoat and hope for a fade between it and original paint that's convincing to the eye from 10 ft away, if not closer!
Before more legshield sanding. I'll soon also blend in new topcoat and hope for a fade between it and original paint that's convincing to the eye from 10 ft away, if not closer!
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'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
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@zachyzach avatar
'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
Joined: UTC
Posts: 586
Location: Western Mass., USA
UTC quote
Most of the previous distortion in the floor from hard livin' is gone now.

Later, the original floor rails will need a lot of TLC, though!

With the frame interior and tunnel, I had cleaned and treated it well with Ospho, dried it out for a few days, then primed extensively with rust preventative paint.

Some battle scars will remain, others may get blended in with the coming spot applications of matching topcoat...
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
@zachyzach avatar
UTC

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'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
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@zachyzach avatar
'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
Joined: UTC
Posts: 586
Location: Western Mass., USA
UTC quote
Wanna see some new "original" paint on this, already, or not?!

Here's what I got. We have a regional chain here, Genden Carquest, that's linked to the Advanced Auto Parts retail locations. I think they mix up the best automotive 2k paint colors matched to your sample, compared to the other shops around me.

I got aerosol paints for this VBB partial paint job because I don't have a quality paint gun and really have no experience with them yet.

I've used an airless sprayer for big scale structural paint jobs like my 3-story hay barn, but that's it. Down the road with a future Vespa GL project, I'll delve into that world, though.

I will need to completely strip the GL frame and body pieces down to bare metal (it was rattle-canned dark blue, but that's got to go.) Any suggestions for complete paint removal, btw?

Before painting, I created several cardboard template cutouts to allow myself to fade in some topcoat on various sections of the bike without much overspray. It was essential to get a few solid coats on the topside of the floorboard, especially, to establish a good, strong surface for the floor rails.
This topcoat was a really good match. To get the right color, we scanned a clean sample part of my mudguard.
This topcoat was a really good match. To get the right color, we scanned a clean sample part of my mudguard.
This is the formula for my VBB's stock blue color.
This is the formula for my VBB's stock blue color.
I like it!
I like it!
OP
@zachyzach avatar
UTC

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'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
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@zachyzach avatar
'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
Joined: UTC
Posts: 586
Location: Western Mass., USA
UTC quote
Mostly original paint, too. Some other vantage points...
Engine compartment
Engine compartment
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Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@sdjohn avatar
UTC

Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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Johnny Two Tone
@sdjohn avatar
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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Location: San Diego, CA
UTC quote
it's working really well, good work!!
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@zachyzach avatar
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'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
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@zachyzach avatar
'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
Joined: UTC
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UTC quote
sdjohn wrote:
it's working really well, good work!!
Cool to hear. Thanks John!

Oh yeah, I remember that you suggested several months ago that I start a thread about a bitsa scoot project after I mentioned it somewhere, so that was good encouragement. I hope it might help someone else with some of the process on an early 60s largeframe resto, too.
@sdjohn avatar
UTC

Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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Location: San Diego, CA
 
Johnny Two Tone
@sdjohn avatar
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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Location: San Diego, CA
UTC quote
it's already really useful as I think about putting my vbb together.

appreciate the detail photos on the fork rebuild!

i have no original paint to save, but i've been staring at your photos thinking about how I might actually decide to paint my frame, and how I could pull it off. it's a much bigger job than cowls, but I think i might go for it.
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@zachyzach avatar
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'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
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@zachyzach avatar
'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
Joined: UTC
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Location: Western Mass., USA
UTC quote
sdjohn wrote:
it's already really useful as I think about putting my vbb together.

appreciate the detail photos on the fork rebuild!

You got it. I think I've done complete rebuilds on 2 VBB forks now, and stripped down a few more than that -- and I have a big photo library of the different tasks of the resto process , so if you need specific pics or tips as you go along, just let me know.

I look forward to seeing your VBB with your color of choice!
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@zachyzach avatar
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'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
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@zachyzach avatar
'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
Joined: UTC
Posts: 586
Location: Western Mass., USA
UTC quote
Painting done and a new stage begins: trim!

After I let the paint cure for a week, I brought out the rubbing compound supplies.

Trying to finesse the cosmetic look of old and new paint blending together. I've used these products lately -- it's what bought life back to the old paint on my regular riders: my BMW flat twin and '64 VBB.

With this new frame here, after "cutting" with compound on the old paint, I buffed it out and then brought out the waxes. Playing with these brands b/c that's what I've got handy. Really like Meguier's Ultimate Compound.

I already also waxed both cowls, headset and front fender. I'll wax the fork too for better h20 and road grit protection before installing it later. The Johnson paste wax is tough and lasts a while.

Now, floor rails and legshield trim begins!

The floor rails were brutalized in their former life, so that was a real task to straighten and clean 'em. My advice: take your time because this is when you'll have total access before rubber strips go in.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Dry fitting used rails to a used frame. Fun!
Dry fitting used rails to a used frame. Fun!
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@zachyzach avatar
UTC

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'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
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@zachyzach avatar
'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
Joined: UTC
Posts: 586
Location: Western Mass., USA
UTC quote
Bought a half dozen each of 3mm AND 4mm screws, washer and nuts for temporary fit of rails and end caps, but I'll use rivets to ultimately secure.

Oh, and the legshield trim must go on before the outer rails' end caps are riveted in -- end rivets go through the trim and floor, both.

I used the aluminum colored plastic legshield trim I got from Mercato and am happy with it. The reasons I tried it for this particular scoot are that it seems popular (see it in several videos, including scooterwest how-tos) and also I don't have the special tool for the aluminum metal trim yet.

It takes a lot of arm strength to get that baby on there; also a thin plastic card and very light taps with a rubber mallet helped but just once or twice. Then strapped it while I finished the rails over a few days...

With fixing bent floor rails, experiment with different toolbox bits, punches, drivers, and shiite like that. One fave way of shaping the rail to the nuances of the frame floor was little taps with an old (I think 3/8") socket extension, which was close to the correct rail inside width, and a rubber mallet.

The outside rails will never be ab-fabulous with this frame's outer floor minor ripples, but it's a huuuge improvement from "before."
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
An obsolete time card of one of my kids' helped snap the trim onto this really tight curved area .
An obsolete time card of one of my kids' helped snap the trim onto this really tight curved area .
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Began with the outside rails.
Began with the outside rails.
Customize a good dolly from a steel punch and "concave" it to match roughly a rivet head
Customize a good dolly from a steel punch and "concave" it to match roughly a rivet head
Secure a rail with screws, then remove one screw in rail's middle area, insert rivet and hold with a block/dolly, snip n file rivet to semi-flat before peening over from below
Secure a rail with screws, then remove one screw in rail's middle area, insert rivet and hold with a block/dolly, snip n file rivet to semi-flat before peening over from below
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
I think this is NOS vbb rubber, not certain. But it fits perfectly. It's 11mm wide, plus or minus, IIRC...?
I think this is NOS vbb rubber, not certain. But it fits perfectly. It's 11mm wide, plus or minus, IIRC...?
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
When all middle rivets are in the rail, you might put the first end cap in the rear, then fit rubber. With far side of rubber tucked into rail, then use a flat head for near side. Then tamp it down all along... Make it snug.
When all middle rivets are in the rail, you might put the first end cap in the rear, then fit rubber. With far side of rubber tucked into rail, then use a flat head for near side. Then tamp it down all along... Make it snug.
Tampa-tampa-tamp
Tampa-tampa-tamp
For outer rail front end cap, you gotta drill through the legshield trim... carefully. Just to the exact I.D. of an end rivet.
For outer rail front end cap, you gotta drill through the legshield trim... carefully. Just to the exact I.D. of an end rivet.
you're removing screws n nuts as you go, one rail at a time, from the middle to the outside
you're removing screws n nuts as you go, one rail at a time, from the middle to the outside
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Finis.
Finis.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@qascooter avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4597
Location: Florence, OR
 
Ossessionato
@qascooter avatar
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4597
Location: Florence, OR
UTC quote
Super nice ZZ. Cleaning the floorboard up and the fine job on the runners will serve this scooter and you well for the years to come! Clap emoticon Clap emoticon Clap emoticon
@sdjohn avatar
UTC

Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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Posts: 9004
Location: San Diego, CA
 
Johnny Two Tone
@sdjohn avatar
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9004
Location: San Diego, CA
UTC quote
wow, look at how that came out - you started here, as a reminder:

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@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 '72 DanMotor Super150 and '04 Bajaj LML hybrid
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@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 '72 DanMotor Super150 and '04 Bajaj LML hybrid
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Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
You've done everything well and the amazing results speak for themselves! It looks so right and your pics & comments are a Tour de Force in how to do floor trim that anybody needing to do same will appreciate for all of your excellent pointers. Clap emoticon
@spacecat avatar
UTC

Hooked
Vespa Primavera 1974
Joined: UTC
Posts: 225
Location: Nebraska USA
 
Hooked
@spacecat avatar
Vespa Primavera 1974
Joined: UTC
Posts: 225
Location: Nebraska USA
UTC quote
Thanks for the great photo documentation. I'm probably never going to redo the floor rails but I appreciate seeing what is involved with the rivets.
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@zachyzach avatar
UTC

Addicted
'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
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@zachyzach avatar
'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
Joined: UTC
Posts: 586
Location: Western Mass., USA
UTC quote
qascooter wrote:
Super nice ZZ. Cleaning the floorboard up and the fine job on the runners will serve this scooter and you well for the years to come! Clap emoticon Clap emoticon Clap emoticon
Thank you! I got a good deal of my inspiration in fact from your tips n pics from old blue Crusaire's restore thread where you did the rails so nicely, among other tasks.
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@zachyzach avatar
UTC

Addicted
'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
Joined: UTC
Posts: 586
Location: Western Mass., USA
 
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@zachyzach avatar
'64 VBBs, '74 BMW R75/6 airhead, '74 Bultaco Alpina 250, Lambrettas + projects
Joined: UTC
Posts: 586
Location: Western Mass., USA
UTC quote
sdjohn wrote:
wow, look at how that came out - you started here, as a reminder:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
Thanks! God, seeing that floor... it was a crazy mess!
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