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Long time lurker here, had a P200e with 18 growing up in Austria. Moved to the US in the early nineties and settled in Naples.
For my fiftieth birthday my wife bought me a 1980 P200e after she saw me looking online for Vespas for a couple of years.
The Vespa is in great shape body wise, I changed the 20/20 carburetor for a 24/24, took the tractor light off and installed a european style light. The seat I changed for a Streamline seat from Germany.
And then hurricane Ian showed up and flooded our garage with 3 1/2 feet of water. I finally got the time to disassemble the Vespa and the motor. Surprisingly very rust, considering the fact we were flooded with saltwater.
I am very busy at work right now but I will post my progress as I reassemble the Vespa. I will also need advice from all of you. Now let me add some pictures
The day of my birthday
The day of my birthday
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The way she is now
The way she is now
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Wow, great job! One of my favorite colors and it still looks mint.

Did you hose it down w/ fresh water soon after it drowned? And flush out the tunnel then or now? I would suggest considering either Ospho or BoeShield T-9 treatement in there afterwards to kill any possible future corrosion. Here's links:

https://www.ospho.com

https://boeshield.com/why-boeshield-2/

Your motor, do you know if your rotary valve was closed?
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The inside of the motor has little rust except the crank shaft bearing and all other bearings. I drained the oil one day after the hurricane, took the spark plug out and poured oil into the cylinder, kicked it over a couple of times, washed the body and stashed it away since I had to work on the house.
General idea is to give her a tuneup with a long stroke crank, original cylinder and head.
I already have a couple of questions:
How can I clean up the rotary pad without damaging it, it has no scratches, nothing a fingernail get's caught in
How can I clean up the rotary pad without damaging it, it has no scratches, nothing a fingernail get's caught in
Ditto
Ditto
Same
Same
That's all that's left over of the brass washer in the clutch, small pieces I found on the back of clutch. The motor only has 2800 miles on it
That's all that's left over of the brass washer in the clutch, small pieces I found on the back of clutch. The motor only has 2800 miles on it
Is that bevel normal on the oil gears?
Is that bevel normal on the oil gears?
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the bevels are supposed to be there.

on the rotary, I'd hit it with some WD and green scotch brite and give it a touch up and call it done.

other than than cleaning it all up, new bearings and seals with fresh consumables all the way thru and you should be set!
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Yes Voodoo, hosed it down, the rust treatment you mentioned is exactly what I had in mind too!
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Thanks greasy, was not sure about it, what about the clutch washer, any idea what ground it down in 2800 miles?
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nopantsflyer wrote:
Thanks greasy, was not sure about it, what about the clutch washer, any idea what ground it down in 2800 miles?
they're both supposed to have that chamfer.
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BBQ rack and tail light look great on that bike; why remove it?

the saddle seat from the 50/60's looks wrong. not sure why people install those.
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that bike did very well for being submerged, seems like your actions following the hurricane saved it. looking forward to seeing it back together.
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nopantsflyer wrote:
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... what about the clutch washer, any idea what ground it down in 2800 miles?
Lets see the mating parts from your clutch. If you are gonna pep up the motor w/ a longstroke crank etc, take a look at this or even consider a Cosa clutch version.

Honda CR80 clutch disk page, what have you got?
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Amazed... My p200 sat in 3 feet of water during Hurricane Harvey. It took me 3 or 4 weeks to get to it, and was pretty well f&%#d. Glad yours in in OK shape.
Yes... love that color!
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Sorry for the late reply, I only have the weekend to work on the Vespa, will take some pictures of the clutch parts, the seat and the BBQ rack including the crash frame and the plastic turn signal grill and the metal headlight grill came with it.
I want the Vespa to look like the one I had when I was 18!
Yes, the color is great, I will not be as stupid as I was when I was young and rattle can it grey!
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Voodoo, I only want to do a light tuneup! I now, famous last words , do you think I need a stronger clutch?
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The wire harness is toast, all the electrical connections are badly corroded. I guess I should get a DC system? Lots of questions, this restoration will keep me busy for months!
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nopantsflyer wrote:
Voodoo, I only want to do a light tuneup! I now, famous last words , do you think I need a stronger clutch?
For me it's more like 'Why not?' because it's so cheap and easy to do if you're 'improving' your motor anyway and your longstroke crank will have you fiddling w/ squish, spacers and lots more work than this simple modification that most of us converts now swear by. I know that I will never buy the stock style 7 spring corks again! Stubborn emoticon But read the article and make up your own mind, if you are lucky your old clutch may still work fine cleaned up as is if that ruined washer doesn't mean more trouble.

Re your wiring: I like that my European P200 came w/ no troublesome unnecessary battery and I think same for most older Euro Ps. DOT regs here required emergency lights for breakdowns at night so a battery was required to import.

But I think most old Vespas here from before those regs do fine w/ no battery as long as motor is running - obviously better for 12V bikes like yours. Bottom line - see if you can find a battery free Euro diagram & harness if you don't mind going without motor off battery lights.
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Get a newer Cosa style clutch, lighter pull. Then if you up the power and need more spring you can replace say half with a stronger spring if you want. I one with a bunch of spring spots and filled it up with stock spring.
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V oodoo wrote:
Bottom line - see if you can find a battery free Euro diagram & harness if you don't mind going without motor off battery lights.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ncOdcIoikgpwRvAIOiDiR1UC5G6R-8Of/view?usp=sharing

Something like this?
⬆️    About 5 months elapsed    ⬇️
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I am back again, finished work on the house.
Excuse my writing, hurt my hand i have time for the Vespa again. Sent barrel and piston to hotrodal to get worked at, for the torque setup
Ordered this crank:

Long Stroke Crankshaft SIP PREMIUM
Long Stroke Crankshaft SIP PREMIUM
pin 16mm, valve timing: 125°/&#x200b;-5° post TDC, fine balanced, Connecting rod bearing: 16x20x20 mm<br />TUNING SPORT - powerful

and the Polini box exhaust.

i want change the the wiring to dc and led lights with battery. Which over the VAPE Electronic Ignition Kit P Series should i get, variable or Static DC, i don't want a high revving engine.
Which wiring harness should i get, or should built the harness from scratch? thank you for all your help and advise,
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Static Vape ignition only. Variable absolutely not needed

Maybe this loom will suit. But I think there can be some problems with switches due to US market model. Not sure.
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getting my shopping list to together, in regrades to clutch upgrades:
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/clutch-sip-cosa-2-sport-23-teeth-primary-65-teeth_93405000, is that good clutch?

with tubeless rims would you guys recommencement:
https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Rims/5581 saw these at scootermercato, or go one piece rims form SIP .

vape, will order the vape dc static ignition.

for jetting should i get this set, or would i get one for one,:
https://www.scooterworks.com/products/prima-si-main-jet-kit-10-pcs-vintage-vespa-stella-2t?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI79vOu6vWgw
awaiting all answer and suggestions, thank you, michael
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i did use the search function, have be reading for ignition systems, clutches for hour. My wife asked me already when i will be order parts, this does not happen very often ,
On the rims question, did not find to much new information. Sometime when i order parts i fret about it, i don't i think the long about after lot of relationship i had.
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i need both parts make this clutch work? looks a nice clutch, what about the split rims, versus the one piece tubeless, with is the best choice? thank you, michael
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nopantsflyer wrote:
getting my shopping list to together, in regrades to clutch upgrades:
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/clutch-sip-cosa-2-sport-23-teeth-primary-65-teeth_93405000, is that good clutch?
It is good clutch but VMC 10 Molle is much better. And if you go for it you need also buy gear cog separately because VMC clutch is sell without it.
nopantsflyer wrote:
with tubeless rims would you guys recommencement:
https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Rims/5581 saw these at scootermercato, or go one piece rims form SIP .
Once I have same rims but tube version. Not like it. Finish and paint not high quality. And rear rim was not stay last long. Maybe it is single case but who knows. If you want split tubeless - go for Pinasco.
I have SIP tubeless on two scooters - absolutely love them. KMT, Dellorto or SIP at least.
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thank you for all the advise , let me freshen up this threat with some pictures, i got the wire harness out, the green wire was crumbling everywhere. I want to convert everything over to a DC system, with all LED lights.

Enlarge the wire diagram to 18x24, and start to built my own wire harness, ignition will be Vape Sport DC. From the battery on, this is where i need your help
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
enlarge the wire diagram to 18x24, and to built my own wire harness,  ignition will be Vape Sport DC. From the battery on, this is where i need your help,
enlarge the wire diagram to 18x24, and to built my own wire harness, ignition will be Vape Sport DC. From the battery on, this is where i need your help,
i what to install  the fuzeblock right after the battery, with a 15 amp fuse, connected to the ignition switch and run all the wires there to all users
i what to install the fuzeblock right after the battery, with a 15 amp fuse, connected to the ignition switch and run all the wires there to all users
for example , i have six electrical circuit, i run wire to the headlight  and the tail light, next that the  turn signals, the horn, break light and so one. To i see this to simple? 
 
,
for example , i have six electrical circuit, i run wire to the headlight and the tail light, next that the turn signals, the horn, break light and so one. To i see this to simple? ,
here all the wire i bought so far, 20 gauge hookup wire and 18 gauge txl wire, should be thick enough? The green wire and the some the black wire and red wire i will use a heavier gauge.
here all the wire i bought so far, 20 gauge hookup wire and 18 gauge txl wire, should be thick enough? The green wire and the some the black wire and red wire i will use a heavier gauge.
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tho the ignition switch i only connect green to 8 and black to 7, and the wire to energize the fuseblock, to 6, or 5, is his correct?

Tor the hi beam and turn singal indicatior, these should work:https://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle-lights/car-boat-light-bulbs/ba9s-ba7s/ba7s-led-bulb-1-led-ba7s-base+color-Cool~6500K+packamt-Single

foe speedometer and neural light, should work:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/ba9s-led-bulb-1-led-ba9s-retrofit-car-ba9s-x-x-xvac-car+color-Cool~7000K+packamt-Single?utm_campaign=Child+-+Organic+Shopping&utm_source=LED+Light+Bulbs+-+Univ

for the head light, i want to get this unit,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VK7FR3/ref=nosim?tag=modernvespa-forum-20,

chandlerman wrote about 2020, thank you , will report back with pictures about my progress
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My 100 sport I just did has identical wiring.
Vape static dc. If you haven't already bought the Sport, don't add that complication. Sport is for racing. "Static" also has a curve, but closer to the Ducati.

"I'd" bail out of the fuse block plan and just get a simple inline fuse. New switches, and build a harness off what you have (length, gauge).

https://www.amazon.com/Inline-Fuse-Holder-Waterproof-XIOGZAXI/dp/B0C9V75JNR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=XFLUFTL7MGJC&keywords=inline+18+gauge+12v+fuse&qid=1706663378&s=industrial&sprefix=inline+18+gauge+12v+fuse%2Cindustrial%2C188&sr=1-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Switches/164873
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One subject of built my one wiring harness, i have been defeated, biggest problem was the crimp connections, especially, i could not get good connections, especially two wire are joint in one quick connect, now have ca 160$ of wire and tool, for other projects, )
i think about this wire harness,
https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Wiring-Harness/182309,
and modify it as necessary, or should i get this one:
.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/wiring-loom-sip-premium-conversion-to-sip-performance-by-vape-dc-ignition_86131120?usrc=Wiring Loom
even though, it is more money.

i also need both handle bar switches new, are they good for all full DC system? or i have get different ones?
Also tried new led for  high beam indicator, but could not them to light up, they look the same, the old bulb, would light up, but the led not, anybody used they already ?
Also tried new led for high beam indicator, but could not them to light up, they look the same, the old bulb, would light up, but the led not, anybody used they already ?
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hi there , slowly moving ahead, has a question about the front hub bearing, i have a closed one, Scooter Mercato shows a open one,https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Bearings/S-07135
is this the right one?
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one more for today, under the Front hub nut, there is no washer, the nut sits directly on the bearing?, thank you
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nopantsflyer wrote:
one more for today, under the Front hub nut, there is no washer, the nut sits directly on the bearing?, thank you
Yeah.

In answer to your previous questions:
Sealed bearing is better there(?).

The SM harness and switches will work fine on your DC conversion. You'll have a few extra wires in that harness with the Vape DC (not an issue). You can also feed the headlight and taillight off the switch vs the old system and blank the purple wire as well.

You'll need to add the connectors (two sizes) vs the SIP harness.
Easier to pull, but more work/time/possible frustration.
Good luck!
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hi me again, with more questions, some many of you write really entertaining, it a really pleasure read your postings, i had a stroke in the middle of December, i ware really lucky, my wife caught it early enough, i an fine, i drive my ktm 690 again, i some trouble with some speaking , my writing is my biggest problem, , i lost how to write some word, so please hang in there with me!`took me 20 minutes so write all that, it rally sucks )
how to use the crank shaft puller correctly? i have six attachment, one fits the crank, i assume, the outer one are for different craft shafts  ,
how to use the crank shaft puller correctly? i have six attachment, one fits the crank, i assume, the outer one are for different craft shafts ,
not the pieces fits on the other side of the crank shaft, i could press the bearing race with the puller, like i  read here
not the pieces fits on the other side of the crank shaft, i could press the bearing race with the puller, like i read here
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
what does this piece do?
what does this piece do?
somehow i went   this that , after i got the bearing out
somehow i went this that , after i got the bearing out
did i really fuck up front hub , or can i still  use it?
did i really fuck up front hub , or can i still use it?
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nopantsflyer wrote:
One subject of built my one wiring harness, i have been defeated, biggest problem was the crimp connections, especially, i could not get good connections, especially two wire are joint in one quick connect, now have ca 160$ of wire and tool, for other projects, )
i think about this wire harness,
https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Wiring-Harness/182309,
and modify it as necessary, or should i get this one:
.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/wiring-loom-sip-premium-conversion-to-sip-performance-by-vape-dc-ignition_86131120?usrc=Wiring Loom
even though, it is more money.

i also need both handle bar switches new, are they good for all full DC system? or i have get different ones?
Some thoughts...

The FZ1 fuse block is a nice piece of kit, but i would never use it in a vespa. It's a bit too large and there's absolutely no need to fuse that many circuits. Save that block for wiring up a coffee warmer on a BMW GS 1200.

US made TXL is pretty nice wire. Much better than what you'll find in a SIP harness.

Let's see pics of what you're using for a crimper and for terminals.

SIP's wire harness 86131120 would be a simpler way to go. The included fuse holder is kind of a joke though. I'd much prefer to use my own fuse holder.

For choosing a wire harness, i look at what i'm wanting to do with my scooter build. For one of my PK builds i installed a Piaggio PX wire harness, then modified it from there to work with my VAPE DC ignition. On my blue Allstate 208 i used a SIP conversion VAPE harness, used my own fuse holders (instead of what was included), and modified the harness a bit to work how I wanted it to work. On my old rusty VB1 200 i made my own wire harness out of TXL wire and floated the ground on the stock (not a vape) stator in order to get DC power.
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hi, whodatschrome, i bought two crimpers, one single crimper, with gave me the best results, my biggest problem, to combine two wire into one connector , i have the wire harness, https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Wiring-Harness/182309, is exactly my old one, seams good quality, hat to re crimp only a few connectors,
these are the crimpers
these are the crimpers
spade connectors
spade connectors
fuse holder
fuse holder
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hello, here is an update,
all pieces drying  in the sun, after ospho treatment and now i sprayed everything with  boeshield t-9,
all pieces drying in the sun, after ospho treatment and now i sprayed everything with boeshield t-9,
i fucked up my paint with spraying ospho little to much, it gotes all the streaks running done, i clay bar and used cutting compound, this  not remove  the streaks , any ideas
, anyone?
i fucked up my paint with spraying ospho little to much, it gotes all the streaks running done, i clay bar and used cutting compound, this not remove the streaks , any ideas , anyone?
at least, the tunnel, looks good, my wive bought this scooter an ebay for 2500$ in 2015, for my birthday,  she has no idea about vespa, but she sure picked a good one, had little rust before , hurricane Ian, flooded her with 3 1/2 feet of  saltwater,
at least, the tunnel, looks good, my wive bought this scooter an ebay for 2500$ in 2015, for my birthday, she has no idea about vespa, but she sure picked a good one, had little rust before , hurricane Ian, flooded her with 3 1/2 feet of saltwater,
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
is there supposed to   to bet  srew it that hole?
is there supposed to to bet srew it that hole?
i had problems, get in  the led in hi beam and turn indicator in the head light to work, in the end, i discovered on the socket, the plus and minus connector were wrong, plus was  minus and plus minus,now  they work great
i had problems, get in the led in hi beam and turn indicator in the head light to work, in the end, i discovered on the socket, the plus and minus connector were wrong, plus was minus and plus minus,now they work great
is this hub done, should i get a new one, or can this use it, will this gashes, tear up the oil seal of the other hub, thank, you, will you keep you  posted, michael
is this hub done, should i get a new one, or can this use it, will this gashes, tear up the oil seal of the other hub, thank, you, will you keep you posted, michael
UTC

parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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Ospho claims the best way to remove Opsho IS with more Ospho. I'm not kidding. Spay some more Opsho over what has dried and it will remove it. Get a sponge and give it an acid bath. Once that's done, then hose everthing off thoroughly. But first off, you'll have to remove any sort of wax shield that you applied.

Those blue hongdong crimpers will probably work just fine. The problem is you need different terminals that have longer legs on them (so that you can double up the wires in one terminal). I get a lot of my terminals and fuse holders here... https://www.cycleterminal.com/
OP
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Member
P200E
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Location: Florida
 
Member
P200E
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Location: Florida
UTC quote
tried the ospho treatment behind and area behind the license plate, did not worked i remove more paint , my stupidity, i should checked it a small area before a used ospho on the hole frame, i will have to live it,cont somebody tell if the front hub is okay, before i but new bearing it please
UTC

parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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UTC quote
nopantsflyer wrote:
tried the ospho treatment behind and area behind the license plate, did not worked i remove more paint , my stupidity, i should checked it a small area before a used ospho on the hole frame, i will have to live it,cont somebody tell if the front hub is okay, before i but new bearing it please
And you removed ALL the oils from the boeshield t-9 that you applied to the paint before you applied more ospho?
OP
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Member
P200E
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Location: Florida
 
Member
P200E
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Location: Florida
UTC quote
good morning, yes i this, wiped down whit alcohol, washed it, let it dry, sprayed on Opsho, let it sit for 5 minutes, greed scotch pad, and started scrubbing, dulled the paint ever further and hat some metal showing, may the paint was not the best!
OP
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Member
P200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 44
Location: Florida
 
Member
P200E
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Posts: 44
Location: Florida
UTC quote
and only applied boeshield t-9 only on the underside, in the tunnel and the inside the front fender
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