OP
UTC

Enthusiast
GTS250, GTS300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 81
Location: San Diego
 
Enthusiast
GTS250, GTS300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 81
Location: San Diego
UTC quote
Greetings!!

Reaching out to the hive mind for tips on installing the GTS silent block into the bracket.

I've tried twice, once with the factory tool and other time with a press and ended up with the same results where the plastic outer shell cracked when installed near the groove? Both times the silent block and bracket were well lubed.

Finally gave up and purchased the bracket with block, however I am interested in replacing the silent block on my second GTS.

This video make it appear straightforward.. but this was not my experience.

Thanks in advance for your advice.
Old original Silent Block.  Not cracked and slides in with limited pressure.
Old original Silent Block. Not cracked and slides in with limited pressure.
Silent Block after installation and removal.  Cracked
Silent Block after installation and removal. Cracked
Top view of installed silent block.
Top view of installed silent block.
@steelbytes avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
2019 GTS 300 HPE w Malossi cylinder & cam
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8873
Location: Batmania aka Melbourne, Aus
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@steelbytes avatar
2019 GTS 300 HPE w Malossi cylinder & cam
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8873
Location: Batmania aka Melbourne, Aus
UTC quote
Curious, why were you doing this in the first place?
OP
UTC

Enthusiast
GTS250, GTS300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 81
Location: San Diego
 
Enthusiast
GTS250, GTS300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 81
Location: San Diego
UTC quote
SteelBytes wrote:
Curious, why were you doing this in the first place?
Swapping engines and thought while I had the engine off why not replace wear items. Reading through various posts the silent block is suspension part just like shocks/shock bushings and is designed to minimize engine vibration. In fact I have read posts where the replaced this with a solid bushing which resulted in an even firmer ride. On my 2007 GTS 250, the silent block looked quite worn and the rubber bushing appeared to brittle and cracked/
@steelbytes avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
2019 GTS 300 HPE w Malossi cylinder & cam
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8873
Location: Batmania aka Melbourne, Aus
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@steelbytes avatar
2019 GTS 300 HPE w Malossi cylinder & cam
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8873
Location: Batmania aka Melbourne, Aus
UTC quote
Fair enough. I have replaced the bushings at the top of my front and rear shocks (SIP) and am happy i did.
@syd avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
GTS300 Super (Mustard) GTS250 Super (Bulger)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5345
Location: Tempe, AZ
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@syd avatar
GTS300 Super (Mustard) GTS250 Super (Bulger)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5345
Location: Tempe, AZ
UTC quote
Might I suggest a press?
@greasy125 avatar
UTC

Sergeant at Arms
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
Joined: UTC
Posts: 15121
Location: The state of insanity, SoCal
 
Sergeant at Arms
@greasy125 avatar
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
Joined: UTC
Posts: 15121
Location: The state of insanity, SoCal
UTC quote
I freeze the bushing and heat the bracket.

make sure that the bracket is super clean and free of any burrs or knicks. then it's just like life: lube, pressure and angle of attack. I use a jack screw with two cups to draw it in slow and steady.
@juan_orhea avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
S150 '09, Beo 500ie '08
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Location: Bermuda
 
Molto Verboso
@juan_orhea avatar
S150 '09, Beo 500ie '08
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1589
Location: Bermuda
UTC quote
sdnyer wrote:
I've tried twice, once with the factory tool and other time with a press
Out of curiosity, what kind of press did you use that cracked it? In my limited press experience I've learned that proper alignment is as, if not more, important than pure PSI, and with many presses it's far more difficult to finagle good alignment of the parts than it is to get them mashed together with volcanic force.
⚠️ Last edited by Juan_ORhea on UTC; edited 1 time
OP
UTC

Enthusiast
GTS250, GTS300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 81
Location: San Diego
 
Enthusiast
GTS250, GTS300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 81
Location: San Diego
UTC quote
Syd wrote:
Might I suggest a press?
Yes, a press was used in one of the attempts
OP
UTC

Enthusiast
GTS250, GTS300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 81
Location: San Diego
 
Enthusiast
GTS250, GTS300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 81
Location: San Diego
UTC quote
greasy125 wrote:
I freeze the bushing and heat the bracket.

make sure that the bracket is super clean and free of any burrs or knicks. then it's just like life: lube, pressure and angle of attack. I use a jack screw with two cups to draw it in slow and steady.
Thanks for the tips greasy. I certainly lubed, and applied pressure.. but apparently failed on the angle of attack:). It is challenging to get it started and lined up as the bushing is by design a bit larger than the bracket. Still perplexing that the same also happened with the factory tool, but I suspect in both cases it was not properly line up/inserted from the start. Will try your recommendation on freezing the bushing and heating the bracket.

If you are not using the factory tool, mind sharing a few photos of your jack screw setup next time use it. Much appreciated.
UTC

Hooked
2006 BV250, 2007 BV250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 310
Location: SFBay
 
Hooked
2006 BV250, 2007 BV250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 310
Location: SFBay
UTC quote
I only have done this job once, and I surprised my cheapskate self by listening to several internet dispensers of wisdom and bought the block and bracket together. In addition to having a hard time fitting the block into the old bracket you seem to have crushed it in the course of staking it in.

Sometimes I just don't have the skills and shop to do a job myself. I took the same course with a rebuilt water pump. It cost more but worked the first time.

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