Modern Vespa

I need a complete set of pads on my MP3 400. From your experience, would you all go with OEM pads or the EBC pads or I have some Sixity pads in my possession. Thank you in advance

EBC or OEM always. and use the standard organic ones, don't go for those race sintered ones as they wear the rotors faster and they also don't last very long. Racers use them but they also replace them quite frequently .

Later MP3s use sintered pads as factory equipped.

They last a long time without being too aggressive on the rotor.

The organic pads from the early MP3 wore out at an alarming rate.

I am not a mechanic and a mechanic advised me to use the sentered as they last longer because they have more metal in them, so I used them for my last MP3, What you stated is the opposite of what I was informed.

My assumption for racers replace them often is that the way of riding (track) which is not the same as regular riding, what I mean is riding at higher speeds, then slowing at curves and back to high speed which is different from city driving.

I hope you can explain more if my analysis is wrong.
thanks,

use what you want. IDC

Check for aftermarket ones from Melossi or Fereodo. These are both very good brands and cost like a third of the price compared to EOM.

Most heavy, high displacement and/or fast bikes come with sintered pads from the factory. Sintered pads got a bad reputation when they first came out, in the very early 1960s, because they ate through the cast iron discs in widespread use at the time. In the 1980s, most manufacturers began to transition to stainless steel discs, and the wear problem went away. As long as you don't replace your front discs with something off a 1975 Honda CB750, you won't notice a difference in terms of how the discs wear, but you will have better, more consistent braking, less fade, and longer lasting pads.

It's a lot like the stories you still hear about synthetic motor oil leaking past main seals. It did when main seals were made of rope. People who believe sintered brake pads wear brake disks sooner are correct, if the bike was made in 1974 and still has cast iron brake disks.

Hi Thanks for your info, real good, so the mechanic stated correctly, currently I have Yamaha Tmax 2015 (530), I have the original Yamaha brake pads, do you recommend to use the sintered pads for it? I am sure the disk brake is not iron, cheers a lot,

If the pads are gold or brass colored, they are sintered. That's probably what came stock on your bike. My Honda Silverwing came stock with sintered pads, and I'm pretty sure the Tmax does too.

Thanks a lot, I will confirm the next time I change the brake pads, cheers,

Vespa gts 250, 2013 model, 35000 km. I have now changed the front and rear pads. The mechanic said exactly the following: There is no ABS in the 2013 model. Apply both brakes at the same time. Now the rear brake holds very well and stops immediately. But I made the front brake weaker. Because the front brake should not be so hard that it slips and falls. Do you think it's true? Now it stops when the rear brake is applied immediately. But the front brake only slows it down. So it doesn't stop suddenly when you apply the front brake. This prevents me from slipping on my non-ABS Vespama. Do you think this makes sense? Or do I need to disassemble it again and make it hold better? Or will the front and rear brake grip change after 100-200 km? I wrote it with Google Translate, sorry.

Don't play around with the brakes, do them as the manual states, and as the manufacture recommends, if you play around with the brakes, you are exposing yourself to risk. You should practice and learn how to press the brake levers in order to get the result you are looking for. The manufacture designed and manufactured the brakes based on standards. Anyone who wants to change anything should be professional to be able how to react. A regular user or person, should follow the manufacture's recommended designs.

Hi demefe
You need to reverse this immediately at a proper motorcycle shop. The front brake provides 70% of your ability to stop vs only 30 percent on the rear.

https://www.pturnagelaw.com/blog/2019/03/the-70-30-braking-rule-for-motorcycles-how-does-it-work/

Forward inertia moves the center of gravity or weight of the motorcycle forwards when stopping. This increases the surface area contact patch of the front wheels for increased traction and stopping as the front suspension is compressed by the load. This happens even when stopping using the rear brake only because physics and rules of motion mean you have to overcome forward inertia to stop.

What you have done is to ruin and render unsafe your ability to arrest this forward inertia to bring the motorcycle to a quick and safe stop.

This puts your safety at risk if you experience an emergency hard braking situation to avoid and accident, rapidly drop speed for a tight corner, or stop hard going downhill.

Youtube and the internet are full of articles about motorcycle braking and how it works. Please go watch the videos and read the articles.

Just as I predicted. The answer I'm looking for. I'll handle it immediately. Unfortunately, there is still a master who says my idea is wrong and says do 100 km and it will be fine. I don't understand these people.