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Accidentally over-torqued and broke the Long Spacer of a Piaggo Front Rack for my 2023 GTS300. My Vespa dealer should be able to drill out the plugged mounting screw-hole in the frame BUT a replacement spacer may not be available. ScooterWest offered two solutions:
1. fabricate from hardware store parts a substitute spacer.
2. buy the rack again.
I wonder if any of my ideas would work:
3. use JB Weld Epoxy to mount the spacer I have.
4. drill, tap, and add a threaded stud to replace the snapped-off bit.
5. wait for Vespa to realize they need to provide spare spacers for this "common" problem.
6. buy a new horn cover (I drilled mine already), walk away, and pretend this never happened.
Does ANYONE have a known working solution?
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I've never had a front rack, and there have been umpteen different mounting variations of them over the years.

Can you post a picture of what the part is supposed to look like? Do you know any of the specs, like thread size?
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jess wrote:
Can you post a picture of what the part is supposed to look like? Do you know any of the specs, like thread size?
No thread specs, but a picture is attached. The nuts are 13mm, and the shafts fit through a 12mm hole. One of the small spacer screws into the long spacer for the lower attachment point.
Good Short and Broken Long
Good Short and Broken Long
⚠️ Last edited by Shaardvark on UTC; edited 1 time
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Yikes that's specific.

Currently trolling through shoulder bolts on McMaster, but not finding anything quite suitable.

It would be helpful to know if the threads were M5 (my guess) or M6. Or even something else. M5 will be pretty close to 5mm in diameter.
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Shaardvark wrote:
6. buy a new horn cover (I drilled mine already), walk away, and pretend this never happened.
6.a. Put a sticker or a plug over the hole and walk away -- with more money in your wallet.

Could you drill and tap a hole in the bottom of the broken long spacer and insert a threaded section of a screw?
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JKJ-FZ6 wrote:
Could you drill and tap a hole in the bottom of the broken long spacer and insert a threaded section of a screw?
This is what I would probably do, with some loctite red in the bolt-side hole. Or maybe epoxy.

But that operation would take -- at minimum -- a drill press and probably a good drill press vise to pull off.
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Actually, I would ask my friend Gary to make me a new one on his lathe and then bring him a six-pack or a nice bottle of something in return.
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jess wrote:
It would be helpful to know if the threads were M5 (my guess) or M6. Or even something else. M5 will be pretty close to 5mm in diameter.
Take your pieces into a hardware store and try various nuts and screws to find the size, or use their thread gauge. (A thread gauge is a very handy thing to have.)
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JKJ-FZ6 wrote:
Could you drill and tap a hole in the bottom of the broken long spacer and insert a threaded section of a screw?
That's my idea #4 - but I don't have the tools or friends to do it. Crying or Very sad emoticon
JKJ-FZ6 wrote:
Put a sticker or a plug over the hole and walk away
new idea, but Noooooooo!
**
I was hoping that someone would spot an idea that I'd missed... so I have a rack.
**
I think the Epoxy fix would work BUT there's no going back from it; am I right?
⚠️ Last edited by Shaardvark on UTC; edited 2 times
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jess wrote:
Take your pieces into a hardware store
the missing threads from the long spacer - can't measure what's no longer there and there's no guarantee that they are the same as the threads on the short spacer's screw. If the broken screw stub can be extracted in one piece, MAYBE there'll be something to measure.
*
If Vespa never smartens up to make replacements available, this would be a good aftermarket part to sell...
*
Even if the broken stub can be extracted, unless I get advice NOT to use epoxy I'm still leaning towards my idea #3.
⚠️ Last edited by Shaardvark on UTC; edited 1 time
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Its 6mm FMT if you have a machine fabrication shop where you live it would take a lathe turner 15 minutes to drill it out, re tap it and fit a length of 6mm stud.
Job done.
Cheers
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Variation on eBay if you struggle to get repair done, all lengths in stainless, just need a short length of 6mm stud also available, item number:285211732250.
Cheers
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Looks like M6. Drill, tap and use a socket screw…
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Do not attempt to drill, tap and re-stud this yourself unless you have experience in engineering, several things can go wrong, drill bit or tap can snap off in the stud or you can drill the part off center rendering the part useless, like you already know this is not an off the shelf part and you would better of taking it to a small engineering/fabricating machine shop and paying a small price rather than an expensive one.
Cheers.
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Shaardvark wrote:
the missing threads from the long spacer - can't measure what's no longer there and there's no guarantee that they are the same as the threads on the short spacer's screw.
The chances of them being a different thread are nearly nonexistent.
Shaardvark wrote:
Even if the broken stub can be extracted, unless I get advice NOT to use epoxy I'm still leaning towards my idea #3.
Epoxy alone (without drilling out a hole in the spacer) won't remedy that -- the contact area is far too small.
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jess wrote:
Epoxy alone (without drilling out a hole in the spacer) won't remedy that -- the contact area is far too small.
So here's the genius bit (or the insane bit): my plan is to epoxy the base of the spacer (small contact area) AND add an epoxy putty "collar" where the shaft enters the 12mm hole - I think that might secure it... yes?
⚠️ Last edited by Shaardvark on UTC; edited 1 time
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Shaardvark wrote:
So here's the genius bit (or the insane bit): my plan is to epoxy the base of the spacer (small contact area) AND add an epoxy putty "collar" where the shaft enters the 12mm hole - I think that might secure it... yes?
I don't really have a mental picture of what that 12mm hole looks like or where it is situated, so I can't really judge. Like I said, there are more variations on front racks than I can count, and they all seem to take a different approach to a difficult mounting problem.
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jess wrote:
I don't really have a mental picture of what that 12mm hole looks like
the "hole" is right above the opening for the Horn, as pictured, as part of the solid front of the leg shield - I figure a solid "bond" to it isn't going to move.
Spacer 1 through the hole onto the "bracket" on the frame
Spacer 1 through the hole onto the "bracket" on the frame
⚠️ Last edited by Shaardvark on UTC; edited 1 time
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I'd probably buy a long bolt and put it though a sleeve/spacer. So you have a two piece unit instead of one.
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Shaardvark wrote:
the "hole" is right above the opening for the Horn, as pictured, as part of the solid front of the leg shield - I figure a solid "bond" to it isn't going to move.
I knew there was a reason I hated front racks. Okay, mounting them is way down the list, but still.

I don't think epoxying the bolt into the 12mm hole is going to be very fruitful. Can you get a washer and a nut on the back side of the 12mm hole, and ignore the mounting block altogether? Maybe with an M8 bolt?

I think that's what I would be doing right now.

But not too tight, as the sheet metal will eventually give.
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jess wrote:
Can you get a washer and a nut on the back side of the 12mm hole...
Will still need to attach a Short piece to it (to get outside the bow tie they stack).
Maybe a bit of both ideas:
0. wrap the long extender in a rubber sleeve, so it'll be snug in the 12mm hole
1. epoxy the extender's end to the bracket, with the sleeve stabilizing it in the hole
2. when cured, tighten a hose clamp around the rubber and flush to the back of the hole (so it can't pull out) - with a washer for protection.
From the front, all would appear normal and NO drilling is involved.
Keep the good ideas coming... can we patent this fix?
⚠️ Last edited by Shaardvark on UTC; edited 2 times
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Get some left-handed drill bits from Harbor Freight and drill out the broken-off bit of screw that's stuck in the frame. It should come out very easily.

Then just source a new bolt and some tubing to act as the spacer.

All for less than $10...
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jimc wrote:
source a new bolt and some tubing to act as the spacer
left twist drill bit- check
tubing - ok
bolt - 6mm if everyone's correct
BUT,
the short extender needs to screw into the long one (once the cover's put back on) - into the tubing?
⚠️ Last edited by Shaardvark on UTC; edited 1 time
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Shaardvark wrote:
left twist drill bit- check
tubing - ok
bolt - 6mm if everyone's correct
BUT,
the short extender needs to screw into the long one (once the cover's put back on) - into the tubing?
Just google for 6mm spacers - e.g.:
https://www.mouser.com/c/?q=m6%20spacers
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jimc wrote:
Just google for 6mm spacers - e.g.:
https://www.mouser.com/c/?q=m6%20spacers
NOW THIS HAS POTENTIAL! Knew the answer would come eventually.
Will check it out; thanks!
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Shaardvark wrote:
NOW THIS HAS POTENTIAL! Knew the answer would come eventually.
Will check it out; thanks!
I personally think that's a really long way to go for an M6 fastener. Given the size of the hole you already have, I would think an M8 (with spacer) would be more appropriate.

And please abandon the epoxy idea -- it is genuinely a bad idea.
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Here's another source for spacers: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/spacers/spacers~/
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jess wrote:
I personally think that's a really long way to go for an M6 fastener. Given the size of the hole you already have, I would think an M8 (with spacer) would be more appropriate.

And please abandon the epoxy idea -- it is genuinely a bad idea.
Epoxy is BAD, got it (ScooterWest is telling me the same thing - must be true.)
*
Not sure I understand the M6/M8/hole/spacer relationship. Can you explain?
*
ScooterWest also thinks I should have a friend with a drill press. I don't. But the repetition of that refrain I find unnerving. Let's not make it an issue.
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jess wrote:
Here's another source for spacers: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/spacers/spacers~/
so, these would require thread tapping?
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Shaardvark wrote:
so, these would require thread tapping?
No, they are just spacers. Get one that is sized to accept (in the inner diameter) the fastener you are going to use. M6 or M8.

M8 is just a beefier fastener. It's an 8mm diameter (roughly). And honestly, you don't need a lot of strength here, so I'm probably just being overly cautious. My concern was the stretch that a long fastener was going to have, but maybe, since you only have to go as far as the sheet metal under the horn cover (and a bit more for the washer and nut on the other side) it's not a big issue.

So go ahead and use M6. You're going to have to work out the length, and the length of the spacer you need, which will be much less than the shoulder on the original shoulder bolt.
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I bought one of these the other day for a GTS300. Is hpe different? Number 5 in picture.

Spacer
672320
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Are you sure these are one-piece parts? I mean, who would cut the thread right up to the shoulder? That's not how I learned it.
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melt wrote:
Is hpe different?
2023 is different
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If I had it in my hands it would be ready in 10 minutes. It's not rocket science, take it to a machinist to repair it…
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Der Blechfahrer wrote:
Are you sure these are one-piece parts? I mean, who would cut the thread right up to the shoulder?
One piece, aluminum I think, with a known weakness - and no spares (yet) that anyone knows of. It's an outrage.
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SaFiS wrote:
It's not rocket science, take it to a machinist to repair it…
I may just have to do that... seems to be one of the popular solutions, although, I would have thought someone, by now, would have recorded ALL the correct specs for the project to give to the machinist.
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The toughest part will be getting the broken threaded section out.

My local Ace Hardware carries spacers and a multitude of m4-m10 bolts.

Remover the broken stud, confirm the thread size, but new bolt and spacer and you should be fine.

Good Luck with this!
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Der Blechfahrer wrote:
Are you sure these are one-piece parts? I mean, who would cut the thread right up to the shoulder? That's not how I learned it.
Yes, they are one-piece as far as I can tell, having just today removed and replaced a front rack on an LX.
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Hey Everyone,
First, THANKS for all the feedback and idea-generating happening here!
Second, I've been in communication with ScooterWest and with their help can now visualize BUILDING a standoff from an all-thread rod, a female-to-female matching coupler, and a lock-nut to secure the coupler. The open end of the coupler would be the mounting point for the Short standoff.
Easy, yes?
NO!
They tell me the required size is M6 with a 1.25 Pitch.
M6/1 Normal.
M8/1.25 Normal.
M6/1.25 ABnormal.
If this is true, does ANYONE have a SOURCE for stuff of this size?
Remember, size matters...
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CrazyCarl wrote:
My local Ace Hardware carries spacers and a multitude of m4-m10 bolts.
As does mine, but see my last note about sizes.

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