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Is it worth it or replace rim. I know they are staked. So do I just grind down the threaded side and pound out? Also... What makes a rim warp and not flush when screwed together. I'm on my spare and it's not flush.thanks!
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Grind down, center punch and drill if punch alone is not enough to knock it loose.
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Ok,thanks for responding. So ground down threaded side only? And punch. Do I need to ground the head/cap side. I don't want to bend rim trying to hard. Another words is it staked ONLY ON THREADED side?
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I would not bother to grind down on the other side. If it does not come off easily, just drill a new hole and the rest will surely come off without resorting to violence.
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Letmein wrote:
Is it worth it or replace rim. I know they are staked. So do I just grind down the threaded side and pound out? Also... What makes a rim warp and not flush when screwed together. I'm on my spare and it's not flush.thanks!
Don't punch. They're threaded in.

Do you have enough left of the stud to weld a nut onto it?
If so, drive the stud in just enough to dremel/grind off the staked material and then back it out.
If not, it can be carefully drilled out with a 6.8mm carbide bit using a drill press, then run through with an 8mm tap.

Replace all of them (by double nutting) while you're at it.

Most stubborn stud replacement:

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It was about the rim studs and you are talking about the hub studs.

The question about rim warp and not being flush when screwed together might be due to tire pressure. I have nlticed that the rims will warp noticeably if held together by only rim studs and nuts. This is why I fully pressurize the tires only after I have both rim and hub fasteners tightened. You might also have your inner tire pinched between the rim halves.
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Thanks much, helpful. The rim is warped on my spare at least. I carefully installed a old tire in it, can't imagine the rubber pinched. But??

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