OP
@eakins avatar
UTC

Hooked
2016 BV350
Joined: UTC
Posts: 451
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
 
Hooked
@eakins avatar
2016 BV350
Joined: UTC
Posts: 451
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
UTC quote
So I started with a helper and standard push fluid method and then lost pressure f & r. I then borrowed a Mitivac and all it does is keep pulling fluid & air from the calipers, but the brakes never get hard.

Then I actually started reading online and realized I made a mistake of trying to bleed my brakes.

So what is my best solution at this point to get the air out of the line?
Is there a central proportional valve on mine that I need to focus on and how do I get to it?

Thanks Bill
@snailpace avatar
UTC

Member
2023 GTS 300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6
Location: Melbourne, Australia
 
Member
@snailpace avatar
2023 GTS 300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6
Location: Melbourne, Australia
UTC quote
Hi Bill,
Possibly more of a reference point than an actual answer to your question:
I replaced the brake fluid (front and rear) of a 2017 BV 350 and had no issue by doing it from the master cylinder down - that is, topping up the master cylinder as I pumped the brake lever and opened/closed the nipple down at the pads.

When I did this I wasn't sure if I would get myself into trouble because all my history of bikes prior to this was in non-abs environments, but it seemed to work with no problems at all.

Excluding the ABS complication, and possibly the problem lies there (and then I'm no help at all) - perhaps you have an air leak at the nipple. You could try wrapping the threads with a bit of teflon tape (only 2 or 3 loops) and then try the gravity approach.

Best of luck.
OP
@eakins avatar
UTC

Hooked
2016 BV350
Joined: UTC
Posts: 451
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
 
Hooked
@eakins avatar
2016 BV350
Joined: UTC
Posts: 451
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
UTC quote
Snailpace wrote:
Hi Bill,
Possibly more of a reference point than an actual answer to your question:
I replaced the brake fluid (front and rear) of a 2017 BV 350 and had no issue by doing it from the master cylinder down - that is, topping up the master cylinder as I pumped the brake lever and opened/closed the nipple down at the pads.

When I did this I wasn't sure if I would get myself into trouble because all my history of bikes prior to this was in non-abs environments, but it seemed to work with no problems at all.

Excluding the ABS complication, and possibly the problem lies there (and then I'm no help at all) - perhaps you have an air leak at the nipple. You could try wrapping the threads with a bit of teflon tape (only 2 or 3 loops) and then try the gravity approach.

Best of luck.
thanks! wrapping the bleed nipple threads was key to seal the system.
even after that I took time with a air bleeder.

all discussed here:
https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/bv350-abs-bleeding-warning-to-owners.1680205/#post-49046583
@fledermaus avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
2015 GTS 2017 BV 350
Joined: UTC
Posts: 12586
Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@fledermaus avatar
2015 GTS 2017 BV 350
Joined: UTC
Posts: 12586
Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
UTC quote
Clap emoticon Wow, that went surprisingly well. I'd thought you were in deep doo-doo.

I've not had major problems myself, but did get some sponginess in the rear brake on my 2017 that took a bit to work out. Nothing like a firm resistance after a bleed!

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