chandlerman wrote:
That much voltage drop is definitely not right. Do you get that much voltage drop if you try connecting it with just the battery?
It's possible that the rectifier is damaged, but I'd be more focused on looking for some sort of weak short to ground or some other wiring fault.
For comparison, here's an inventory of my various DC systems...
All of them but the Sprint have a GPS speedo, which doesn't have a huge draw, but I think they're 20-30W if memory serves.
I run an incandescent 35/35W bulb in my GL with the Vape DC. LED pilot, tail, brake, turn signals, and the GPS speedo. It has a battery, which has never had an issue staying charged except when I let it sit without putting it on a tender.
I have full LED's on all my other bikes. The headlights are the brightest LED's I can get my hands on and fit the headset. On my Sprint, it's a 55W JWSpeaker LED. Other than flickering at idle (1,000 RPM's), it runs with no battery just fine.
On my Smallie, I have full LED's, the speedo, a digital CHT, and a small 12V lithium battery that I use to overcome the strobing at idle issue. I've also been running an AFR on it for the past few weeks, which adds a relatively heavy draw. The Vape still keeps up just fine, including keeping the battery charged.
when connecting the bulb to the battery, 12v, no drop. battery is not connected to anything.
here is what is interesting, since i have about 8 VAPE regulators, i put one on. at idle, delivers near 12v. with the headlight bulb, the same.
this is starting to point at a bad rectifier i think. remember, the rectifier is not connected to anything other than being bolted onto the chassis and connected to the stator. everything upstream from the rectifier is thus eliminated. i have a rectifier on the way.
Anyone need a VAPE regulator as a spare? i have several, just pay postage.