greasy125 wrote:
what type of riding-- city, touring, distance; and how your ride-- fast, slow, hooligan, mellow, etc is more important to selecting components for a build and what components you select will basically dictate what pipe you should choose.
it's a system and everything has to work together for it work right. you can throw all the parts together and it will work, but making it work right is the trick.
the current consensus is that the 60 crank is the way to go on any p2 rebuild be it stock or aftermarket barrel. but, this creates a whole set of circumstances in which you absolutely can not just snap it together and roll. so if you're willing and able to do that work, it pays off handsomely. but if not, then a stock crank goes in and that flavors your other choices.
^ This.
If you know what you're doing building a motor, you can do a lot of good with not a lot of money. But if you don't, you'll probably do a lot of nothing with a whole bunch of money.
Dyno's without detailed spec's of the motor they were run on are useless other than as an indicator of what the approximate shape of the curve and the maximum potential for a cylinder or exhaust is.
For example, when SIP publish those curves, they're typically for a pretty aggressive build. They've been using a Rally 200 with a 62mm crank and a Quattrini M244 in most of their tuning videos of late. That'd be about right for that Dyno. No word on port timings, intake timings (assuming it's not a reed), carb, ignition, cylinder, porting, or anything else that could influence the performance.