Modern Vespa

10% off SIP orders, till the 27th.
Voucher code BLACK23

Got the big box last week. Got charged a $101 import fee from UPS. $15 tax plus a $86 "broker fee"

Using mapp gas instead of propane with an adjustable flame valve, after seeing a post from Arzente Motori about not being afraid of using heat.
Took 20 min to remove and replace the bearings.

Two quick questions:
Carbone Standard (stock-looking front shock), Carbone Sport (adjustable preload), CIF Standard? Or?

Second question in the last pic.

I'd probably replace the stirrup "shoes" if they showed noticeable wear, like can catch a nail type of deal. but if they're visually just marred and not awful I'd probably just hit with scotchbrite and ship it.

the x-mas tree bearing is usually unnervingly tight.

NU204 for the flywheel side makes things a lot easier…

Got to be careful, I wanted to replace those little feet of course I checked for fitment before hand and new feet didn't fit the new fabbri selector.

Didn't want to grind them down, so ended up pulling them from a less worn setup.

As far as I can see the more important part is the linkage in the middle… bunch of engines I've taken apart so far has had a lot of slack in that section. So you need to move the arms where the cable attaches, a lot before there any movement at the gear end.

And heat is always a good thing for crankcases. I think it's easier on a smallie, not sure if it's because there's less to heat up, but the bearings go in and out a lot easier.

Ray,

I think I have a fresh set of shift stirrup "feet" if you need some. PM me and I'll drop them in the post.

I was going to replace mine, but the linkage was distorted so I just bought a full replacement unit.

I had Carbone Sport twice on my LML. One died after 3500 km and other after 4300 km. On my friend's PK(with V-range type fork) front Carbone Sport was hold for two weeks.
In this price range I can suggest YSS X-pro there also is short version. I have YSS on all my Vespas and completely satisfied. I builded up near 20 smallie engines but only in one replaced stirrup "shoes". Can't see any difference. Absolutely agree

Put the wrong one in at first
That's the axle bearing.

Seeing how hard it was to remove it (causing the NU204 to fall off the table into the trash pile), can I install the Xmas tree on the small half and just rotate the gears when I close the cases?

That's how I do it. Crank on big half with the race of the NU204, primary and gasket on the small half and everything slides in easily. If for a any reason you need to split again, it's as easy…

I do same with 6204 bearing. Not so easy as with NU204, but without problems too.

There must be the cone pin. Worth to check what's going on with it mount place.

Thanks!
Did you use that gasket dry?
Thinking a Dirko bead around the crank. There's some damage on the small half next to the Xmas tree here, that leaves the meat of about an early P.
Not sure if I need a full bead around the rest with the same gasket you have.

Only if you plan to remove it at some point.

That's what's confusing me. The pin holds it in place.
That set screw turned in makes it steel against aluminum vs smoother steel on steel

Decided to paint it. Too many bubbles and creep rust. Started too look like a Cheetah (not in a nice Cheetah way).

And those holes
Three months of searching for bug-eye signal brackets. I'm out.

Bar ends (I already had) and a battery. Nice to have the headlight on while the switch is on. Stall at a city intersection otherwise and you'll know.
DC Vape. Budget blown.
The wiring is in great shape, so I opted out of powder-coating it.

Taped over the VIN sticker and removed the emission sticker. Got a stamped sticker set from 2nd Ave Scooters, but the original VIN sticker is solid enough.

*At night.

Paint in one day with these.
I'm going to glue four of these to plywood and put it on a 16" lazy susan.

This allows one to paint in one direction and keep a breathing zone upwind.

Amazing build so far. Im so jealous that everything went to smoothly compared to mine haha.

It'll be alright, Vespas always get there in the end…

I definitely feel you've been unlucky with some parts.

Oh I've made several newb to smallframe mistakes!
All part of the fun.

Installed the axle before the clutch basket.
Installed it again before the kickstart gear
Now the axle is loose in the bearing

What happened here, anyone?
Went together ok with light tapping while rotating the axle (not in neutral, forgot to).
Kickstart gear slipped out?

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/fDyvALp7-N0

Rubber mallet, hit the small Christmas tree towards the flywheel side…

Had the same, the Christmas tree wasn't seated in the small bearing properly, so it was engaging the kickstart cog constantly.

Needs more space to separate from the cog.

Worked!
Heated up the small half around the bearing and gave it a few taps.
Thanks so much.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/1_BkB91V_8E

Yaaas…!

Sounds perfect, silence…

But try attach the kickstart lever and pull it and see if the kickstart gear frees up…

Also turning the driveshaft to make sure nothing is binding… rear hub loosely attached will help with turning.

I watched a couple different assembly videos and then made a list of the assembly sequence before doing my first smallie motor. Probably too late to be truly helpful, but I just added it to the NSM Wiki so maybe it'll help someone else down the road.

Smallframe engine assembly sequence

the paxton book on smallframes is really good, highly recommend it.

Kickstart frees up & axle spins smooth. Shifts well.

Should I replace this bearing?

I have a steel caged Timken (Japan) bearing here. Smooth as F on two P's.
It didn't slide like that after the first install

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Oey51qPeZn4

Ooooooo…

I would change the bearing out.

Sealed bearing on the outer side.

I used a double sealed bearing and removed the inside seal.

2nd-ed-ed

Got it.

Since I'm going to open things up, now I'm thinking if there should be a spacer for the Xmas tree.
Works great tapped in.
But when the nut is torqued won't it pull back out?

Maybe I can dry fit it into the big half and see where it lands(?).

As far as I know, reading around, the spacer on the tree is used for stock v series Xmas trees on new fabbri style clutches…

I've been using PK trees and gear boxes and have not needed to use the shim on the 4 engine cases opening/closing I've worked on.

Sounds like your latest video you made it work…

It won't pull out when you torque it, because it's not actually pushing against anything. It's pushing against the taper… the clutch springs will be pushing against the Xmas tree so it doesn't come out of the bearing.

If you can, use a shim (don't know if you have) against the primary and circlip…( I see if I can find a photo)

Ah for that driveshaft bearing, I think it's possible to replace without splitting the cases. Not done it before that way, but have thought about it for the future.

This circlip…

The shim goes against the bearing and circlip.

Holds the primary basket tight.

I think it's a good idea because it does seem to have a gap with the primaries I've used. And I imagine will help out with bearing wear.

The nut holds the clutch inner basket/spring/plates to the Christmas tree taper but it does not clamp in any way on the outer basket. Every time you pull the clutch it pushes/seats the tree into the bearing.

Can I do this at this?
Mild arthritis here
Six?

Spent an hour looking for a flung-stupid woodruff key
Never found it (found a new one in a tub), but the garage is cleaner.

Maybe 6 will work with a mild setup.

How many friction plates? The more the merrier…

I'll try 6 then!

Four plates. They look new.
Thinking this bike has only a few miles on a recent build.

Got a set of Newfren plates that I'm thinking of shelving for now.

Yeah I'd try 6 springs, especially with 4 plates, unless the springs are super soft.

Worse case is to add 2 more.

The friction plates for the one finger clutch are terrible, but there's 5 of them. And if they can handle the torque, I'm pretty confident your 4 plate will be alright. Might be a case of tweaking the spring tension.

"Stick to your largeframes, schoolboy."

I hope you caught it

Ooooppphhh…!

That would've been annoying.

I just put this bastard together and it won't start! sip must've sent me a bunk vape!!

First thing in diagnosing problems, before you pick up a wrench… blame SIP first.