Modern Vespa

Some quick questions:

The kit didn't come with lock washers. Can I assume these are oval lock nuts?

RTV only under the base gasket.
1.3mm squish ok here?

Last question in the 2nd pic.

belt & suspenders, I'd throw some lock washers on there too.

correct on the base. 1.3 should be in the safe zone on the squish and acceptable all around. if there was more tuning or carb going on I'd say maybe tighten it up but for a street bruiser I think that's fine.

Sealant on all surfaces, even on new parts. Best play it safe for air tightness.

I use seal sealer there because the gap is usually significant, but have to be cautious on the sealer used.

I usually have to roughen the sealer up super, super carefully not to cut through the primer next to it.

If I leave the sealer, not even epoxy primer will adhere to it… just runs off.

That's strange should be lock washers with the head.

Head is installed wrong. Spark plug hole should be facing flywheel side…

No lock washers for newer head, nuts are special type and go the other way around…

Woah, super good spot!!

I usually check with the cowl to make sure the hole is in the right place.

Was always putting it wrong, facing up or down when I worked on the egig.

The Parmakit I'm working on came with similar looking nuts… still had lockwashers…

I installed them, but not really needed?

Also, long reach plug for this head (e.g. B8ES, B9ES)…

oh wow, good catch there Johnny Snake-Eyes!

serves me right for looking at stuff on my phone and talking out my butt.

I wonder, he did turn the piston the other way around, right??

Hope so!

Even Johnny no eyes here spotted it!

Impressive you managed a 1.3mm squish with yours, that sounds about right with a bit of spice to it. I had a hard time getting it to seal if I didnt use Honda-bond on the base gasket on both sides because the flywheel fan shroud transfer port has such little room to bond with.

Do you guys add some anaerobic sealant to those flywheel-side crank seals? I was chasing a brutal air leak out of that one for a while and I think next time Im going to use the red jelly or even Hondabond instead of doing it dry.

I generally coat both sides of the base with something, it just depends on what crusty tube of sealant isn't totally dried out. having a long and hateful relationship with RTV I try and avoid that at all costs.

I've only ever used sealant on the outer edge of seal at the case where there existed some type of deformity or issue with the machined portion of the case.

Thanks so much!
Saved me

Pretty sure that's the correct orientation of those nuts, though, from the little I know about nuts.

Fixed it right after I took the pic!

New curiosity:
Clutch with 6 springs won't hold more than 30 ft lbs.
8 springs, then?

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/eOxTnSYt-pg

Found out what that mysterious set screw was for.
It's to set the neutral switch cam.

Going to turn that neutral headset light into a turn signal indicator (that neutral wire is gone anyway). Better with smoother steel on steel rotation.

Oh wow, thought it'd be able to handle atleast 30 ftlbs.

Looks like 8 or even more.

8 and held. Torqued to 32 ft lbs.
36 on the drive gear ok?

Going to paint it winter of citrus on Wednesday.

Some pics:

ray, you need the custom greasy gear locking tool!

it's a quarter with a hole drilled in it and a loop of safety wire so you don't drop it down the case!

looking good man. can't wait to see the finished product!

36ftlbs on a stock setup is normal.

As insane as it sounds, the egig crank and primary cog is at 80nm. Which I couldn't believe, but apparently the m12 and flat washer can take that amount.

But you wont be using the coin to stop those type of torques.

Yeah had to use this tool for my own sanity. Slipping copper coin? Nervousness 101

Another type.

Any place where this tool works best?

I'm imagining in the place of the coin…

I think it might be better than the big tool… kinda wanna try it.

Exactly. But I don't have it.
I use one similar to yours, but I had to cut out the top "handle". But now I don't remember why.

Hitting the bottom of the cylinder maybe?

another type, but has to be made specific to the gear size and turned out way too expensive.



https://www.shapeways.com/product/5SHSWNENB/smallframe-gear-stop-29?li=shareProduct

very cool… but like you said, not very universal.

Shame that…

As at 9:00 in this video.
He cut a segment of the gear and welded a post to it.

I went through a LOT of tubs at the scooter swapmeet last Sunday looking for that gear. No luck

which gear do you need ray? I know a guy...

Wow, thanks.
For this bike a 22 or so tooth helical drive gear.
Guessing I can make 4-5 tools out of one, including screw-ups.

That Crimaz tool is straight tooth.

New confusion:
Pulled the clutch lever and three bearing needles came off.
Tried fitting them back in with grease and made scrambled eggs.

Try harder or order another?

I'll have the warehouse guys get on it, Ray



on the bearing, I guess you could try and fiddle it back together? you have the size right off hand? I might have one and save you the shipping if you're in my neck of the woods in the near future

It is easier to put needles back than change bearing.

This is a job for "Red N Tacky"

https://www.lucasoil.com/pdf/TDS_Red-Tacky-Grease.pdf

Thanks!
Autozone has it, just up Sunset

If it doesn't work I'll take it to a dentist.

Super stoked today.
BARELY got three coats on it (1 to 8 hardener and quart).

*Could have been worse.

love it! looks great ray!

looks like you already have the makings of a nickname for it too!

Colour looks awesome!

Looking good!

I know you laid out the ingredients (painters pyramids, lazy susan), but what's your order of execution?

Is it "paint the bottom, let it sit an hour, flip it over?" Or is it more clever than that?

Well done, Ray! Liking everything about this project.