Modern Vespa

Paint the bottom and flip it.
With help, it will leave four 1/8" dots if it's balanced.

I used a PAPR helmet I use for welding at first, but with the rotational base I was able to direct the paint direction into the windstream behind, adjusting the spray pattern on the gun to keep a pretty much straight line shot.
Last coat no mask at all.

Those (11) needles weren't so hard to put back...
But when I went to fish the PIA o-ring in, all but one of the 22 needles fell out of the lower bearing

All nice now.
Cover on. Lever rotates 15mm until the pin hits. Then 15mm until it stops.
This okay?

Meanwhile:

Ordered the wrong flywheel taper.
Could have sworn I...

Right one should arrive this week, along with the front shock I forgot to order
Nice little break to clean-up and watch this xlnt YouTube playlist.
Every little detail here.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLauclWHvbpSbSEDSisncAAKrxAz6_n4_f

Some pics and a question in one of 'em:

looking good ray!

I used ultra copper on the joint. whether it's needed or necessary or works? I dunno, but I've always done it.

sharp work on the hub holder, much neater and more compact than my clunky contraption!

My SIP box is stuck in Fokkerpark, NL.
I'm Fokked as far as being able to go much forward on this without it, so pretty much polishing and cleaning things I wouldn't otherwise do.

Some pics, and a long-shot question in the last:

Story of an SIP box:

Ordered the 15th
Picked up by Fedex the 18th
Arrives Fokkerpark NL the 21st
Scanned at Charles De Gaulle the 27th
Scanned at Fokkerpark the next day
Back to Charles De Gaulle the 29th
Memphis TN the next day
Back at Charles de Gaulle
Now departed Memphis. Expected delivery the day I go back to work.


Has to be a tracking glitch, right?

Highly recommend the In officino con Edo playlist I posted.
How to paint the numbers like Piaggio did.
How to preserve the original door levers (drill and tap), etc, etc.
Every. Single. Detail. And a history lesson.
He does a GL as well, restauration "conservativo."
Wonderful.

Seems I have the same FedEx game playing with all my SIP orders. I never use sealant in a slip joint just antisieze there. The only thing that could go wrong with the sealant would only be to blow out. No harm.

LOL...been there, done that on a few different painting projects.

Box arrived two days ago. Went from the days are too long to too short

The lower chassis steering race was a beeatch to install. Three tries with a SIP-like tool I made. Couldn't get it to pull up straight. Kept binding at whatever random angle and stuck. An impact only made things worse
Parked a heat gun in there for 4 minutes and punched it in with a drift.
Worked great. Better. Stuck a borescope in there to confirm.

The "junction box" on this bike is located behind the headlight vs under the horncast with its cousin the P series.
That will be fun. It's as tight as a (choose your own analogy) in there.

I need a bright red turn signal indicator (see pic). I've seen two scoots get clocked with turn signals left on.
Some pics:

Making great progress! Looking good. (I just love the paint color on this.)

I am!
Was about to mount the engine and connect the cables before realizing I can kick start it on this stand with the banana.

I have special stand for run SF and LF engines.

Please report back your findings on how the stand manages! I'm pretty close behind you. Good Sorting.

It works. Who knew.
I put nylon glides under the stand to make easier to rotate on a table.
No proper fuel hose and bottle around, so I dumb-propped the tank on my moped's pedal next to it. Started three kicks and proceeded to dance, pulling the tank off with it. I'll bolt it and a tank stand to plywood tomorrow.

SHB 19 and 45/86mj to start with.
Anyone have a suggestion which jet direction to try?
The German wiki is all over the place
(forgot to torque the carb to the manifold so ignore the video sound)

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/03Mp3zlRlAM

Not tried starting it on the stand.

The unisex I have would hit the stand at the front. But that's pretty awesome it can be started with the banana.

Not pressure tested it? If you're using the vape road CDI, you probably can't use much of the online gsf jetting numbers…

Everyone seems to be using variable ignitions. Anyone using stock ignitions I haven't found any reliable jetting references (that's si carb and the usual suspects of pwk, phbh, for largeframes and smallies) that have worked.

Maybe as a ballpark and then lean out the pilot and midrange.

Sounds right on jetting. I have the same setup (Polini, 19/19, SIP Banana) my jetting is 45/85mj.

I haven't.
Feels really good on today's run on the stand with these jets.
Can't imagine anywhere it could leak other than the carb connection. I'll know more when I take it out on the road.
SIP has a 19/19 new version with a nylon sleeve. I'll try Voodoo's method first if it feels like an air leak.
Thanks!

Awesome.

Visited Steve, aka SpeedoKing today.
Great guy. Also a longtime scooterist.

Showed me his NSU Prima. Electric start 1957!

Oh, I can...I can imagine all sorts of places...

Just wondering… I think it'll be fine if tuning is taken slowly as well.

The SIP carb looks like it'd be a great upgrade.

Build is looking great too!

That yellow is fantastic. Kudos Ray.

Mounted the engine.
SIP banana BARELY fits with the battery bay there. Maybe 7mm from hitting it in the front.
Had my wife sit on it and bounce. It doesn't get closer with weight on it.

Pulled the original wiring harness back through the headset, ends all scattered. Was not fun.
Should have taped them into a cone and wire pulled it. "Next time."

Smallie is lookin' GOOD!

to check pipe clearance on full travel of the suspension you can take the spring off the shock.

That looks really tight…

Maybe it wouldn't get any closer because of the distance from the crankcase pivot?

Man that yellow really pops. Loving the color and I'm excited to see how you break her in and see what kinda speeds you get. I was on a 86 or 87m/45p for essentially the same set up as you. 27/69 gearing as well but not sure if I have a short 4th as they say.

Looks great!

I pulled the bolt and it hits at a 12mm drop.
Hoping I can get away with a distance nut cure. Just not sure how much distance I need

Something about that color on a small frame is just perfect. 👍

Spacer plan was a bust. With any extension the angle changes and the spring hits the exhaust arm (see pic). Set the shock preload to 3rd position and I couldn't get it to hit bouncing on it. I have a few options if it hits 2 up.
Too old to ride off curbs, but the speed bumps around here

Clutch feels great, better than the Cosa's.

Ready for a battery! Anyone have a domestic supplier recommendation for a battery they're happy with?
Has to be around 2 1/4" deep max, 5 1/2" wide. The SIP sealed battery will fit, but it'll mean shipping an SIP box with a battery tag

If your rear spring is making contact with the exhaust, i wouldn't hesitate to, um..."clearance" the pipe with a clearancing hammer. You gotta do what you gotta do to makes shtuff fit.

That speedo looks really nice! I love that yellow, It'll be easier to spot you when I ride through town!

Wait til you see that speedo lit up. I have one on my smallie. It's got a spacy orange glow. Very cool.

Time to look into this…

I've been using these in all my scoots:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FNXBTRC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

6v or 12v

You have to swap out the harness connections…But the price and fitment are pretty fantastic.

Or make one. Ray is fully capable.

Oh definitely!

That was a reference pic to follow.

If all else fails and the hammer doesn't pan out you could notch the pipe and weld in a radiused piece.

you can often shift the pipe around a bit. slacken the bolts a little and see if theres a sweet spot where everything clears and then tighten it down.