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roland87 wrote:
On my Super G I used original o-ring and copper silicone. Work perfect.
That's what I always use. New o-rings arrive today. Some new hardware and a bit more finesse. A little anti-sieze on the allen bolts as Mr Gick suggested.

With hard to seal things I get more anal about torquing and sneak up on it with lower torque values. I leave it overnight and check it again. Then a couple times in the first 100 miles or so.

It works for the VW engine. Exhaust headers are especially hard to seal and wreak havoc on the valves if not right.

I also noticed when sealing the reed block for pressure testing how easy it is to get it wrong. It's not how tight the carb nuts are, but how evenly they are tightened. This is especially true on the Stella which doesn't have the screw to hold the carb box down.
Thanks to Bajaj Rob for the sealing plate and rubber.
Thanks to Bajaj Rob for the sealing plate and rubber.
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O-rings came in and it looks like I measured incorrectly for the exhaust flange. Snipped the o-ring, super glued the ends together and let it set up overnight with kopper kote. I can always replace it later if needed. If it passes the pressure test, I'm just gonna run it.

Really hoping it goes better this time.
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Frustrating.
McMaster Carr, of course, sells them 20 at a time, and every time I miss order, I get another bag of high temperature, O-rings.
And I think, the description should have read:
" one size fits nothing"
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charlieman22 wrote:
Frustrating.
McMaster Carr, of course, sells them 20 at a time, and every time I miss order, I get another bag of high temperature, O-rings.
And I think, the description should have read:
" one size fits nothing"
I think I either measured wrong or mistyped the measurement. Was multi-tasking.
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Case sealed up and was still holding pressure 3 hours later, even with the reed block installed. Gonna call that good and get it back in the Stella.
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fingers crossed emoji
heart emoji
keep us posted emoji (use your imagination)
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charlieman22 wrote:
fingers crossed emoji
heart emoji
keep us posted emoji (use your imagination)
Thank you for cheerleading. I will definitely keep you posted. I spend more time posting than wrenching or riding anyway.

Just to recap:

Lowered timings slightly
Increased squish from 1.2 to 1.5mm

Replaced the cheap clutch side seal with Cortico blue+loctite 603.

Used every leaky VW sealing trick and my personal stash of designer loctite to seal up some nasty oil sucking.

Replaced the Allen bolts with better quality + antiseize. Fabbed a socket to accurately torque them.

Removed reed block center bar, reed stop and matched opening to carb box
Rebuilt autolube (which I will test)
Switched to 24/24 carb

Will recheck TDC and timing.

Re the leaky exhaust stub: It looks symmetrical, but matched up better with the cylinder exhaust port when I turned it 180*. It also stopped leaking.

Fingers crossed.
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All buttoned up now and rechecked timing marks. This is how I set it up last time. Marked TDC on the flywheel cover and measured 18* BTDC with a degree wheel. It lines up pretty closely with the the factory marks in the cover and flywheel. So when I am checking with a light (at about 3000 rpm) the flywheel mark should light up when the marks align at 18* BTDC. Just checking I am doing this right.

Looking forward to having this engine back in the Stella. Apart from the high CHT's it ran well with nice power. I'm hoping to be able to ride it to work which is 15 miles of 55-60mph cruising.
Hopefully this is right.
Hopefully this is right.
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Looks about right.
I'd keep the following in mind: there are easily 1-2 degrees of slop in the measuring.
1. The parallax effect
2. Any timing movement your electronics may have.

Is this stock points and condenser?
Or something else - I've forgotten.

Bottom line, u can make adjustments to increase or decrease ignition timing by carefully scribing the stator position before loosening and rotating.
1mm = about 1 degree.

Take a really good picture of your spark plug that you can zoom in on - before u start.

Check again as you tune in- looking for any evidence of very small aluminum balls from pinging.
Back off timing a hair of u see that ur getting build up.
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charlieman22 wrote:
Looks about right.
I'd keep the following in mind: there are easily 1-2 degrees of slop in the measuring.
1. The parallax effect
2. Any timing movement your electronics may have.

Is this stock points and condenser?
Or something else - I've forgotten.

Bottom line, u can make adjustments to increase or decrease ignition timing by carefully scribing the stator position before loosening and rotating.
1mm = about 1 degree.

Take a really good picture of your spark plug that you can zoom in on - before u start.

Check again as you tune in- looking for any evidence of very small aluminum balls from pinging.
Back off timing a hair of u see that ur getting build up.
I'm running a stock PX stator that I bought new last year and the standard Ducati ignition coil. Stator works well, keeps the battery well charged and all the electrics work…on a Stella!

Using a timing light on anything is kind of sloppy. The Parallax Paradox!

10-4 on getting it in the ballpark and paying attention to feedback from the engine to dial it in.
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Quote:
The Parallax Paradox!
Chuckled
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I have been riding around with this engine in the Stella and things are looking more promising.

I went out for a ride yesterday just to do some jetting and ended up riding 25 miles to visit a friend out in the boondocks. He made me call him when I got back home again and offered his truck for rescue if needed.

Engine was in and out of spluttery rich, but highest temp was briefly 320F and mostly around 280 or lower. I tested out a couple main jet changes, but mostly I just enjoyed the ride as I wasn't as worried about overheating. Beautiful day on twisty roads over rolling hills and through mountain hollows…exactly what I've always wanted from these machines, so I could live with it not running its best.

Jack has been talking me through jetting. It's making a lot more sense now and I feel like I am better understanding the feedback the engine is giving me. Still waiting for parts for the VR-1 build, but I'm looking for a win with this one first, so there's no hurry. Makes sense to see one tuning project through before taking on another.

Thanks for reading along.
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