garncarz wrote:
Where should the measurements be taken from/to?
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garncarz wrote: Where should the measurements be taken from/to? ![]() distance of red line
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At this point, I'm just going to make sure it's still straight, then tack a bar in place. I'm not too worried because it hasn't really been handled and floorboard is still in place on the curve, which is where it would be bending.
I considered replacing the entire legshield, but only bought the floorboard. I don't really recall my logic at the time, but am pretty sure it had to do with shipping costs. As it is, I'll have a couple of tricky repairs where the legshield cracked down at the curve. If things go totally off the rails on the welding, I'll fall back to doing the whole thing. BTW, for those wanted to
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greasy125 wrote: huh. TIL, thanks! I'm sure there's a spec out there, but in this situation it's more of a preventive measure that the frame doesn't taco when CM drops it off the roof since he's welding up there "because the light is better"... kidding, sort of. but more so it doesn't warp up when welding is all. I mean, I know that there's a critical measurement but I'd go with "close enough" so it doesn't turn into a pretzel with metal starts melting. I also agree that not bracing a chassis prior to altering it is risky. I stitched a P chassis back together after Bald John cut it up with a Sawzall. Used a gas welder too and that was messy business; never again. Didn't SafiS share guidance on measuring and checking alignment on a smallframe chassis during one of his recent builds? I thought it was from the seat mount to the upper bearing race or summat? |
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Mine is 355mm from the tip of the frame (seat hinge area) to the 'collar' at the top of the steering column (just below the headset).
The later V100 frame is 385mm. |
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Good news is that I measured and it's 16-1/4" from the hook to the neck and I put a laser on the centerline and it's all dead straight.
No other progress today, but the propane torch arrived, so I'll be cooking with gas this weekend for sure. Next step will be to weld in the brace, which will also make it a lot easier to carry the frame up and down from the roof for welding. ![]() Looking good
![]() A little dark, but right down the center
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That's a relief. Good to start with a straight frame.
FWIW, I think leaving the legshield in place and just replacing the floor is worth a try. I've never done one, but doing the whole thing looks like a mutha. Careful up on that roof. 😉 Reminds me of my army guy neighbor up on a shaky extension ladder torching/scraping paint off his house…somehow juggling a blowtorch, scraper, a beer and a lit cigarette. |
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chandlerman wrote: No other progress today, but the propane torch arrived, so I'll be cooking with gas this weekend for sure. Destroying parts 101… |
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Quote: A little dark, but right down the center profile |
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Birdsnest wrote: Man … laser line looks a little off on the steering column. Double check that before you weld. |
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Birdsnest wrote: Man … laser line looks a little off on the steering column. Double check that before you weld. Then see what the steering column is doing in relation. In the pic it's almost off to the side of the steering column even before it reaches the floor. |
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1.
Quote: I had this idea of covering a whole frame in hand sanitizer gel and setting it on fire. Paint stripping with free performance art. 2. Not to be morbid, but Ginch - when you die - can I have your cashed internet links? 3. CM. It's a high wire act - over a gorge - without a net, or perhaps a wire. I am simultaneously horrified and hopeful - which is a weird combination to experience. Suspect u will be expert - right after u complete. Thanks for posting live. |
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charlieman22 wrote: 2. Not to be morbid, but Ginch - when you die - can I have your cashed internet links? |
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Ginch wrote: You could probably have them now. What goes around comes around. Just one question - what do you mean? CM - have u started trying to do the welds? Have to say - seaming two 1.6mm pieces of flat sheet metal with a MIG welder can't be easy. Are u using a small wire guage? Maybe a cheap finger Sander would help focus the grinding process? Must be a bear. ![]() |
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CM2, I'm using .030 wire and I basically use Fitzee's Fabrications technique for butt welding sheet metal.
(start at 6:00 for the interesting bit) And everybody can relax about frame straightness or lack thereof (though I definitely appreciate everyone's concern! ). I went out and figured out how to mount the laser so I could just focus on working the camera (like I've never said that before...). As you can see, all is well. And is it just me, or does the laser look fake? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Quote: CM2, I'm using .030 wire and I basically use Fitzee's Fabrications technique for butt welding sheet metal. Been waiting to see this tried. Anyone interested should check this out - it's a pretty cool method/ seems like a really good way for floor boards. Practice move seems wise. Results may alter as it heats up. Id Be tempted to experiment with clamp of an aluminum strip as a heat sink to the back if space provided. living vicariously. Popcorn eating Homer Simpson emoji |
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Quote: And is it just me, or does the laser look fake? |
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Birdsnest wrote: Indeed, but if your welding skills match your photoshop skills you will be aright! ![]() Brace is installed, which is good. Unfortunately, I discovered I have the wrong floorboard, which is obviously not-so-good. I don't know how I didn't notice before now, but it's an inch too narrow. ![]() Since I'll have to order another one anyway, I'm going to get one that includes the curve up to the legshield since that's in pretty bad shape. *opens wallet and SIP in a new browser tab* I may still go play with fire since I'm unsupervised for a little while. I just can't use up all the propane in the process. ![]() |
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chandlerman wrote: Since I'll have to order another one anyway, I'm going to get one that includes the curve up to the legshield since that's in pretty bad shape. ![]() Forgot which welder you got You'll have an easier time with .024 wire. The metal in that video is thicker and no corrosion. 40 grit flap discs will also knock down the welds much better than what he uses. He also tacks too close to another. Should be more a cross of tacks, going back and forth to cooler areas. You'll get an hour per tank with that burner, fyi. |
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I'm surprised it took me this long to see what you are up to CM. Wander away for a few days and the floors are all cut off but at least all your limbs still seem to be attached. It takes some guts to just start cutting!!
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Ray8 wrote: 40 grit flap discs will also knock down the welds much better than what he uses. https://www.amazon.com/Benchmark-Abrasives-Finishing-Deburring-Stainless/dp/B008GS92KC?pd_rd_w=CHTc9&content-id=amzn1.sym.80b2efcb-1985-4e3a-b8e5-050c8b58b7cf&pf_rd_p=80b2efcb-1985-4e3a-b8e5-050c8b58b7cf&pf_rd_r=MT2M4GDCXSSA3SRZFMRP&pd_rd_wg=n2Ivh&pd_rd_r=8670cd92-f7f7-4e3e-ac75-ab75ccb1e57b&pd_rd_i=B008GS92KC&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_15_t You can finish with 80-100 grit to reduce filler later. |
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Jack221 wrote: Is it not easier to cut the legsheild off too? Changing the whole lot would look smoother and probably save time from this point. |
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^^^
Yeah, but… I had a really hard time taking the horn cast off my SS180 (spot welds were tough to locate) would not have been reusable even without the damage from the wreck. I had an even harder time finding a replacement horn cast. So please factor that in to your calculus. I suspect a smallie horncast is easier to find, but dunno for sure.
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I already decided I'm not going to deal with the horncast. I'm going to go for the one that goes basically up to the bottom of the horncast.
Like https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/repair-sheet-legshield-floor-board_PV155006 Or whatever is actually the right one. |
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Not sure what thicknesses of metal you will be welding. Typical floor legshield metal looks to be 18-20 gauge. The frame, maybe 1.5+ mm.
I find the thicker stuff easier to butt weld it than the thin. I'll think you'll be fine. I still have a hard time doing plug welds consistently, so I dread doing them. 1 out of 4 at s a booger. Someone here did a whole small frame legshield. I can't remember who. I wonder how well the repop legshields fit; whether the curve matches up well with the tunnel frame or if requires a lot of coaxing, clamping, heating and beating. Never been a Dead fan. |
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^ hahaha.
FWIW - when CM was working in my shop, he noted:"I'm pretty sure there isn't a single song on my playlist that's also in yours"… ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Edit: it was the bus and performance art. Edit: tho neither of us fall in the Dead category either. |
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charlieman22 wrote: ^ hahaha. FWIW - when CM was working in my shop, he noted:"I'm pretty sure there isn't a single song on my playlist that's also in yours"… ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ We can test the theory at ROM. I'll put my playlist on and we'll see how long you last. ![]() |
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Birdsnest wrote: What's the dogs name! Our best guess is that she's a German Shepherd/Pit Bull mix, so very much a watch dog. She came to us from your neck of the woods. Hopefully not too close, though, because my brother found her in one of the sketchier Houston barrios.
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Quick update...based on what's available (i.e. on SIP and Scooter-Center), the floorboard I have is my best option, even if it's not a great fit.
I'll use the patches I'm going to have to fabricate in the curve of the legshield to blend the 1/4" difference between the two, then cover it with legshield trim and just hope no one notices. So that means I'm back on track-ish. I guess that also means no reason not to go crazy with the industrial propane torch. 800,000 BTU's of flaming Bad Decision, here I come! ![]() Closer than I was thinking?
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