Modern Vespa

these two relays/switches sitting behind the head light, I'm wondering what they do and if replacing them can solve my current problem.

my current problem is when I flip off the kill switch, my 2005 bv200 doesn't turn off the kill switch light, which in turn won't let me crank over the engine. does the rem. control switch have anything to do with this?

edit: adding pn: 58002R.

Sounds to me like the Kill switch might be bad. I'm not sure I understand your description.

part numbers 58002R, there is two of them. what do they do?
also I thought it might be that, but before I spend the $$ on ebay to buy them because they are not made anymore. I thought I'd ask what these are and are they something that will solve my issue.

these relays or switches (12v 30amp) are $7-8 a piece new, little cheaper than the kill switch that I don't know works or not until it gets here because I can only buy them used.

Piaggio uses the term 'remote control switch' for relays. Rather confusing at times...

I suggest you use the BV125 wiring diagram to aid diagnosis - my bet is on the side-stand switch (vulnerable to the elements) or the actual kill-switch being faulty rather than the relays.

https://manuals.wotmeworry.org.uk/Beverley/BV%20125%20E3/

what happens when you flip the switch the other way?

do your brake lights work? Front? Rear?

Irrelevant on the BV - if the Kill Switch tally lamp is still ON then there's no way it'll start. No such tally lamp on the GTS...

light stays on regardless of how the switch is toggled.

edit: yes both brake light work, from what I remember before tearing everything down.

The switch could be faulty, and so could the sidestand switch. Test with your multimeter! Not got one? Get one, they are very cheap. Irrelevant to the kill-switch problem.

what settings should I put the multi-meter on and should this be tested with or without the battery to the scooter?

Meter on an Ohms range - 2000 (or 2k) on the cheaper meters is fine.

Disconnect the sidestand switch, and measure Ohms across the switch. It should be Infinity with the sidestand down, and 0 Ohms with the sidestand up. If not 0 (or a very small number, cheap meters aren't great at zeroing on Ohms) then the sidestand switch is faulty.

If that's OK, you'll have to access the kill-switch on the dash - and do the same measurement on that. Kill=Infinity, Run=0 Ohms. If they're both OK, then it's just possible the 'Not ignition' relay is faulty - check by substitution with another 5-pin standard car relay.

My betting is on one of those switches, especially if you use the kill-switch to stop the engine every time.

One of the reasons it is difficult to figure out what a part is called, is that many manufacturers and dealers or distributors have their own name for the same part. For example, this is what I've always called the "fixed rear pulley." And I have no idea where I learned that particular term.

Torque corrector- Kymco
Face Set, Driven- Honda
Secondary Fixed Sheave- Yamaha
Face, Fixed Driven- Suzuki
Secondary fixed sheave, complete- Piaggio
Fixed Half Pulley- Malossi

That's an old, discontinued part number. The most current part number is 58246R.