Modern Vespa

Any graph from SIP i'm skeptical of, but i think if your cylinder puts out a similar horsepower as a stock P200, i think you'd be more than satisfied.

I struggle to believe that a GS150 is quicker than a PX150. The science says they're going to get very hot at sustained wot rpm. The small end has it's feet closest to the fire.
I think there were 5 versions of the 150 over a few years. You have one of each?

It does. Still a two port though. Is this the only option?

Only VS4 and VS5 were sold here for US market. All of mine are VS5; one being an imported Augsburg.

The 2005 US market PX150 is pretty dang slow. So slow that my buddy's old stock P125X was quicker!

Jack the SIP top end would be the only other option I would consider for this scoot. Since the original engine is going back in I don't want to cock anything up with this one. The original specs for this model is 7.5 to 8hp and top speed of 61 or 62 by Piaggio. I'm 6'2" and 200 lbs so I don't expect top numbers. I'll post my findings stock and with the SIP cylinder. I'd be tickled to get 12hp even if it just meant more bottom and mid power with the newer top end. My sportbike days are over so scootin, dirtbikes and my v twin builds are filling all the boxes. Hibbert's GL was a blast to ride. Both my scoots can do 160 mph (in the plane 😆)! The 221 I'm putting in my P might need a little help just to make it a better touring machine though.

Was there much difference between the 5 versions? Did they all have the same cylinder?

Original P125X is underrated. Saw one crawl past a P200E once.

Do you think any of the US import modifications are actually an improvement? All the ones I'm aware of do not enhance the original Italian design.

The sip cylinder is loosened up nicely. And cheap enough.
If you hold the original wide open don't do it for long, even if it doesn't seize it will be in the damage zone. Up to somewhere a bit over 40mph where the max power is it will be solid reliable.
What cylinder on your 221, did you decide yet?

I'm not qualified to answer that as I have never gone through vs1-vs3, let alone seen any of them.

What I do know through reading- at some point the cylinder head changed along with carb settings. The exhaust spigot changed from slip-on to screw-on. There could could be more changes through range, I just don't know.

Piaggo quit importing the Vespa to the US around 1982-83 ish, so we didn't see another P series until over 20 years later! We really missed out over the years with all of the updates (such as EFL, E starter, disc brake, theft resistant cowls, fuel gauge). I think the only that's different from the US market 2005 PX and the rest of the world is the wire harness? I really do like the US wire harness though. It's pretty darn reliable AND best of all it had a relay going to the bright 55/60 watt headlight! No doubt the PX150 is VERY anemic though. I've found that simply flowing the stock cylinder and airbox to the cases and swapping out the catalyzed muffler makes a huge difference.

We technically got some up to 1985 and thereafter, but the numbers were very limited. I have owned one US Market 1986(as titled) PX150 Arcobaleno and have worked on another as well. Distribution got really funky after 1982. There were batches imported after 1985, but extremely limited as well.

Hibbert compared the numbers between his original cylinder and mine, they were different. We're a couple years apart and my late model came with the higher compression cylinder head.

I was expecting differences. I'm sure across all 5 there are many. Somewhere around the time of the VS5, the boost port was being proven. And the expansion pipe developed. It was all about to change for 2 strokes.

Had a thought. There are a couple of changes that can easily be done to that cylinder to make it run cooler. And l more powerful too.
Things they wish they knew at the time.

Yamaha leading the way. MZ leading the way despite a shoe string budget until their factory rider Ernst Degner defected and shared with Suzuki.

Went to install the fan and realized past owner drilled and tapped the flywheel for this enormous bolt. Supposed to be 6mm. Made some tophat bushings to fill the void. I can still use the tab lock washers after I get the proper bolts.

Got the Vape installed and timed. Had to make a washer for the clutch on the crankshaft. Needed to be 1.7mm thick. The skinniest one I had was 2.5mm. That really sucked removing that much metal, oh well it's done. This GS is Molle equipped! Only needed a thin spacer for the clutch cover and I had the right length plunger. Getting close to running. Hopefully tomorrow.

How do you figure out how thick the washer needed to be? Curious minds wanna know!

Looking Most Excellent....

Thank you! The wideframe book gave some dimensions for it and I think there's a little leeway depending on how your crank ends up being positioned in the cases. I had a small straight edge to double check how the primary gear aligned with the clutch. My washer needed to be 1.75mm.

Does the GS Vape not come with a flywheel?

It comes with an adapter to use the original fan. The flywheel is small compared to the original.

Oh that's kinda neat. Super secret hidden electronic ignition. No one will ever know!

I got spark, the exhaust is on and the carb box top that GickSpeed powder coated is looking top shelf!

Decided to make a dedicated running stand for the wideframe. I was going to mod my P stand till I looked at it. No dice, easier to make another. Tomorrow will be scrounging for stand steel.

Orwell if you read this I'm at the stage of getting pissed off with restoring unobtanium GS hardware.

I'm excited about this new pipe. Can't believe the exhaust fit ( It's from SIP ). Still need to paint a couple pieces silver like the fan cover and rear hub.

After I reinstalled the head I hooked the pressure tester back up and it showed a leak. Ended up being the cheap ass gauge. Grabbed the vacuum tester from work and all was well. I'll be sourcing a better quality blood pressure kit.

First part of fixing pressure test leaks is finding the ones in your works.

Looking good Baja impressed with your progress and success.

Nice tidy engine. Looking forward to seeing it on the road.

I've decided to paint the wheelwell area in single stage polyurethane. It's the same paint that's on the shock bracket. It's tougher than the acrylic urethane. I also get a deal on it through work.

Mmmm. I can almost smell it from here.

Got my order from SIP yesterday. I ordered some stainless legshield trim by Bosatta. Opened the bag, put them on and then noticed the Cuppini logo. WTF?! The bag said Bosatta and so did my invoice.

It looks really good though. I've never heard of Bosatta. Is it supposed to be better quality?

Usually items like lights are lesser quality for Bosatta. Heard good things about the legshield trim though. I like not having chrome bubble off later on too.

It does look nice but wasn't the Bosatta more expensive and listed as being stainless steel? I'd prefer stainless over chrome plated.

Me too. And I would be pissed if I paid more for it and didn't get it. Repop chromed parts for anything don't seem to be too great.

I contacted customer support last night and at least they've already responded. Hopefully the correct trim gets shipped soon so I can finish the bodywork and paint the frame.

I don't think Bosatta makes legshield trims. Most Italian companies share parts between them and just rebag them. CiF, RMS, F.A. etc. all work together…

Thanks SaFiS, that makes sense. I put a magnet on this one and it stuck. I don't mind if it says Cuppini as long as it's the stainless one. I have had magnets stick slightly to some stainless steels but this stuck pretty good. Of course the picture shows a joining piece also that I didn't get. On par with scooter restorations I suppose 😂.

Two tips about the stainless legshield trim…it will have kind of a sharp edge where the open slot has been cut. Figure out a way to sand, file, grind, or whatever it takes to smooth out the metal in those particular areas so that it doesn't slice into the paint when you go to install it. Also McMaster sells some really expensive nylon tipped stainless steel set screws. It's also worth the buy in to help keep the attaching hardware from digging into the paint.

Looks like tomorrow will be a go for startup. Had a snafu with the stand tweaking while kicking the engine over. Reinforcement installed and tested.

Wow looks great looking forward to seeing the video of Donna running.