OP
@superal150 avatar
UTC

Lurker
Super 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3
Location: Ilkeston
 
Lurker
@superal150 avatar
Super 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3
Location: Ilkeston
UTC quote
Hi all, I have just recently put a px engine in my Super 150. I bought the extra wiring kit from beedspeed and have wired it up, it's running well apart from rear light not working. I have changed the brake light switch as before both the rear light and brake light were on and when the switch was pressed the brake light went out. So changing the switch should have worked. There was a black wire running to switch before but beedspeed drawing said to tape it up. Has anyone had the same experience or can give me some input.. it will be appreciated.

Thanks

Beedspeed drawing attached
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@chrisfromcle avatar
UTC

Hooked
2019 Primavera 150, 2019 Honda Super Cub 125, 2017 Honda Metropolitan, 1965 Honda Super Cub 50 CA102 (Sold)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 495
Location: NE Ohio, USA
 
Hooked
@chrisfromcle avatar
2019 Primavera 150, 2019 Honda Super Cub 125, 2017 Honda Metropolitan, 1965 Honda Super Cub 50 CA102 (Sold)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 495
Location: NE Ohio, USA
UTC quote
…I have changed the brake light switch as before both the rear light and brake light were on and when the switch was pressed the brake light went out. So changing the switch should have worked. …
[/quote]

When you say "changed the switch" did you mean that your got a new brake switch and put it in? If so, is a normally open switch (no continuity between terminals unless pressed)?

I would check the switch first.

Second, double check that the blue wire goes to the pin of the lamp socket and not the shell. You are now switching the hot wire, not the ground.

The drawing seems like it would work with right switch and properly executed.

Chris from CLE
UTC

Ossessionato
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2232
Location: Philadelphia
 
Ossessionato
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2232
Location: Philadelphia
UTC quote
Have you checked your bulbs? May have fried one during set up. It's easy to do. Happened to me.
OP
@superal150 avatar
UTC

Lurker
Super 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3
Location: Ilkeston
 
Lurker
@superal150 avatar
Super 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3
Location: Ilkeston
UTC quote
FridayMatinee wrote:
Have you checked your bulbs? May have fried one during set up. It's easy to do. Happened to me.
I will check again, but bulb looks okay
OP
@superal150 avatar
UTC

Lurker
Super 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3
Location: Ilkeston
 
Lurker
@superal150 avatar
Super 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3
Location: Ilkeston
UTC quote
ChrisFromCLE wrote:
…I have changed the brake light switch as before both the rear light and brake light were on and when the switch was pressed the brake light went out. So changing the switch should have worked. …
}

When you say "changed the switch" did you mean that your got a new brake switch and put it in? If so, is a normally open switch (no continuity between terminals unless pressed)?

I would check the switch first.

Second, double check that the blue wire goes to the pin of the lamp socket and not the shell. You are now switching the hot wire, not the ground.

The drawing seems like it would work with right switch and properly executed.

Chris from CLE
I will have to check, I've not looked into the ground wire at end of rear light and where that goes too. I will have to take the tank off again.
@garncarz avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
1964 Allstate Cruisaire, 2022 Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, 1972 Suzuki T500J
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1077
Location: York, PA (the intellectual center of the universe)
 
Molto Verboso
@garncarz avatar
1964 Allstate Cruisaire, 2022 Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, 1972 Suzuki T500J
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1077
Location: York, PA (the intellectual center of the universe)
UTC quote
SuperAL150 wrote:
I will check again, but bulb looks okay
Check the bulb continuity with a meter or a battery. Sometimes you can's see the break in the filament.
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