Modern Vespa

I just saw that SIP now have a programmable Vape CDI. 16 pre-programmed curves, or you can set your own.

Needs extra parts. Does it really worth it if you're not competing in a championship??

Parts required
The freely programmable SIP Performance by VAPE Ignition differs from the Road or Sport version in three components. Instead of the one-piece "Electronic Unit" (Ignition Coil with CDI), a separate ignition coil (item no. 51008700) and an ignition or control unit (item no. 51008610) are used. The Flywheel also differs from the Sport and Road Ignition. The keyway is offset by 149° to allow the adjustment range. For Vespa Largeframe or PK Engines with a 20mm Cone, the Flywheel item no. 51007160 can be fitted. For Lambretta DL/GP Crankshafts the Flywheel item no. 51002916. The Ignition can therefore be purchased ready assembled, but it is also possible to purchase the parts individually and retrofit an existing SIP Performance by VAPE.

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/cdi-ignition-unit-overrev-sip-performance-ignition_51008620

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/flywheel-sip-performance-by-vape-race-12v_51007160

Perhaps. I didn't actually read the instructions, but the instructions seemed unclear to me, so I just threw the link up because it popped up while I was looking for brake shoes and mudguard screws.

Huh...unclear instructions from SIP you say? Doesn't that go without saying?

They were unclear, even by SIP's standards. "Grade A: for a perfect understanding."

Needs a total of 3 parts which is a bit of a deal breaker for me…

If only the control box was cheaper…

But it'll be cool to finally get a "flat" curve.

There's another thread somewhere on here getting into this new Vape CDI + new flywheel + Overrev control unit combo. The takeaway seems to be that it's aimed at really high-revving engines only. (Overrev, duh.) None of predefined curves, except for two, maybe, seem useful for a moderately tuned roadgoing motor. One of them starts retarding at 3800, for a 4-degree drop by the 8000 mark, and another does a 6-degree plunge from 4500 to 8000. The rest all hang on to the timing advance up till 5000, 6000, and 7000+, and can vary as much as 13 degrees. And oddly, they all seem to do a 3-degree retard from 4000 to 3000. Isn't that where timing advance can make things smoother and more efficient, down at the low low RPMs?

Maybe somebody more well-informed can weigh in on if I'm looking at this right.