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Hi ,any welders who can recommend a mig welder for working on scooter bodywork.. there's loads of decent 2nd hand options , gas or gasless.
I know gas is better, just not sure on ampage needed.
Will only be used for scooters not welding bridges lol
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UK, right? (asking because of 110/230v)

Check https://www.stahlwerk-schweissgeraete.de/?lang=eng

cheap + 7 years warranty
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2020 piaggio liberty 150
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I can personally recommend Everlast welders.

I do not know if they are available in England?

Here is a link to a website for shopping purposes.

https://www.everlastgenerators.com/

As far as mig for welding on Scooter bodywork I do not think flux core appropriate.

So I would use at least a good quality GMAW welding machine/wire feeder.

For some of the welding you may want to do on a scooter body or frame Tig welding might be better. The problem with Tig welding (GTAW) is that it takes some practice to be proficient with it. That being said you don't want to hack up the Mig (GMAW) welding either.


Certainly for welding on the alloy components that make up the case the GTAW process is the minimum to perform the work correctly IMHO.

I think I have made a couple of posts in this forum about the best filler metal for alloy cases and the like. Full disclaimer I have no direct experience with these filler metals I am just going by recommendations made on the web for the application. Regardless Tig welding takes some practice to get used to and so does Mig welding.

If you do get a Mig welder I recommend https://weldreality.com/ as some reading material to get the correct setting for the machine. If you have the machine set perfectly for the application then it's just a matter of travel speed /stick out/and heat input.

Thin sheet type metal warps quickly with welding. You have to move the heat around and not apply too much to one area. Lots of tack welds and bracing with filler metal welding rods...youtube ...

I recently posted about a laser welder that looks really awesome! Not cheap but I think possibly the best for alloy material.

NSR LightWELD Laser Welder

Filler rod question
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Something like this model for Mig welding.

https://www.everlastgenerators.com/product/mig/cyclone-200es

This is an inverter welder, they work really well for consistent welding.
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Thanks guys for info..really looking for uk recommendations and 2nd hand machines as on a budget
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UTC quote
Hi.. from UK Penzance , I picked up one of these secondhand ..works great
CLARKE MIG151EN 150 AMP TURBO NO GAS/GAS MIG WELDER
Cheers
Rich
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GT125 l
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P.s. !
I use the welder with gas
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UTC quote
You definately want a MIG welder with gas. It doesn't need to be super big or powerful. I'd just look for a good quality make in good condition. I'm in USA, and just have a small 110VAC Lincoln welder that will do anything I need it to.
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Thanks guys..
Rich team I've been looking at that model ,and the sealey model of same ampage, but wasnt sure if too powerful.
I normally just use my m8s one but have no way to get the scooter to him(lost license)
Dougw yes just for thin metal so nothing to powerful
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It is capable of a lot more than 1mm sheet , I managed fine by doing a series of tacks and eventually joining them up .. welding I did was down behind the front wheel around the seam..practiced first on thin Imm sheet
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Found this locally ish for £120 ,will need a gas bottle and regulator
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https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/kennedy-emw-120.22632/
Welding forum link... They think it's a bit to beefy for 1mm..mine 1.6
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Meant **min 1.6 *
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Thanks richtea..yeah looks tad too powerful lol..Will keep looking
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1980 Vespa P200e (sold), 2002 Vespa ET4 (sold), 1949 Harley-Davidson FL
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@caschnd1 avatar
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I'll admit, I'm a snob when it comes to welders. I've owned a cheap welder and never will again. I'll only buy a Miller welder after owning a couple of them.

https://www.millerwelds.com
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caschnd1 wrote:
I'll admit, I'm a snob when it comes to welders. I've owned a cheap welder and never will again. I'll only buy a Miller welder after owning a couple of them.

https://www.millerwelds.com
Same. That said, it's unclear how much of a presence Miller has in the UK -- there are certainly some, but I don't know if they are ubiquitous like they are in the US.
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Welding machines are like cars. Sometimes you get a lemon. This Lincoln has made me a lot of money over the years and is my go to for body work running .025. Runs smooth and never let me down. My Miller machine is ugly but also has been a dream over the years and I am the 3rd owner. It will blow my electrical panel off the wall before it reaches its potential.🤣😂
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I have used both the top of the line Miller and Lincoln welders in my capacity as a professional welder. When I retired I bought an Everlast welder for my garage because I wanted to be able to weld aluminum as well as steel.

I just could not justify spending thousands of dollars more for industrial quality inverter welders that come in blue and red. I also just did not have space for multiple welding machines.

The kicker for me was the advice of a young apprentice whose father was also in our craft and a friend of mine. This young man came on to our job site and passed an extremely difficult weld test to hire on. My co-worker who tested Morgan said it was the youngest welder he had ever tested. The kid was very surprised (for some strange reason) and did not even bring lunch because he did not expect to pass the test?

When Morgan told me that he had learned on and practiced with the Everlast at home and that after quite awhile on the job and at apprentice training with the Lincoln and Miller he could not tell the difference between the three I decided to try the Everlast and am very happy with it.

I honestly think that most of the parts are manufactured in China or somewhere in southeast Asia anyway and you are paying for resale value and possibly customer service with problem issues if you buy one of the new blue or red ones. Some of the older red and blue welders may be all USA made but I think most of the inverter welders have imported parts. I will be the first to agree that the major manufacturer's have better quality control.

I have a few years older version of this mine is a MTS 252 sti but it does all of the AC/DC and pulse stuff just like most of the modern inverters do. It also has an integrated wire feeder under $2,000

https://www.everlastgenerators.com/product/mig/powermts-251si-tig-package

Here is a Miller inverter...

https://www.millerwelds.com/equipment/welders/multiprocess/xmt-350-multiprocess-welder-m00149

It costs a little over $7,000 and it does not do AC/DC for aluminum or alloy and it does not include an integrated wire feeder.

I have used many of these Miller XMT's at work and I prefer them to the Lincoln inverter welders but I can tell you (except for the aluminum which I have yet to master although I am practicing with dirty old cheap aluminum ladder pieces figuring if I can get good with junk material it will be really good with good material) my Everlast welder does just as good a job for open root pipe welding (I have lots of practice material) as the 7K Miller.

When the inverter welders first came out I preferred the diesel engine driven machines, specifically a Lincoln with a Perkins diesel was the smoothest in my opinion. These are of course illegal in California now. After spending a lot of time with the inverters I got to like them alright but still think a very large diesel engine powered welder to run a smoother bead.

Even among the manufacturer's there are different grades of welder. When you say you are a welding machine snob you are buying top of the line industrial grade right? I wish I had your budget!

Also it has been my experience that when you have a welding machine set on the upper end of it's capability, like a 110 welder turned almost all the way up to be able to weld even thin stuff it just does not compare to a higher quality and much more powerful 220 or 480 welder (or the perkins diesel gross polluter) that is barely even above the the lowest settings for the thin stuff.

The first post remark about "I am not welding bridges" is alluding to not needing it to be capable of welding more than very thin material and the very thin material welds so much better with a 220 welder than a 110. Something something duty cycle...but they just weld better!

I have a 110 Lincoln wire feeder that was purchased in the late 80's for about $500 so not at all cheap. They are really good welders and it has held up to the test of time but it just does not weld as smooth as my 220 Everlast for GMAW.
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skids are you making fun of my massive dinosaur square wave machine?!🤣😂 I actually traded work for it cause I'm poor. Welds aluminum nice!

In all seriousness, looks like Derek is looking for something inexpensive that he can repair his scoot with possibly in his bedroom. ( Derek, get some ventilation going and have a good fire extinguisher handy ). Looks like a 110 welder will do the job for him. Just a matter of finding one that isn't a turd. My 2 cents worth.
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No not making fun at all. I think you are right with Derek looking for something cheap and not a turd.

I have a not cheap 110 welder and much prefer the 220 as a power source for the inexpensive imported welder. I think having the extra duty cycle capability makes a difference even on small gauge material.

What you have is a very high quality industrial strength welder that is probably on par with some of the best of the older engine powered welders especially for GTAW! I bet it spins that meter pretty good when you have it going?
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skids wrote:
No not making fun at all. I think you are right with Derek looking for something cheap and not a turd.

I have a not cheap 110 welder and much prefer the 220 as a power source for the inexpensive imported welder. I think having the extra duty cycle capability makes a difference even on small gauge material.

What you have is a very high quality industrial strength welder that is probably on par with some of the best of the older engine powered welders especially for GTAW! I bet it spins that meter pretty good when you have it going?
I turn a blind eye to it and hope my wife doesn't catch on. She'll be on her computer all day but if I turn on a light she's all over me!😁
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I have a Lincoln SW200 for TIG and stick, 120/240. You pretty much need 240 for AL but it does a great job and its very good on SS.
If you're going to weld in your bedroom you will need TIG - no sparks.
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Thanks for all the replies, but looks like I won't be getting one.
I've added up all the costs of doing this scooter and finances i just ain't got.
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UTC quote
There are many great welders available now for cheap. If you're in UK check Amazon.
For scooter bodywork you're better off with small high tech welder. 160 Amp is plenty, even for constant bodywork welding. Nearly any welder will be overkill for that thin metal. And I'll recommend TIG over MIG. Don't even think about gasless.
New small TIG welders are cheap. Search for one foot pedals or variable triggers for on-the-fly Amp control, higher frequency, steps, lift and weld, rising and falling on/off, etc that all make it easier to get constant good weld.
Edit. 10 liter gas bottle at 200 bar lasts about 3 hours of continuous welding.
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Looks like he has decided to part with the bike.

[topic188605]

I do not blame him it is difficult when you don't have the resources ( time, money, place) to do the work.

I just want to say don't let it get you down and don't give up. Often times it two steps forward and one step back.

The people that don't make mistakes aren't trying to do anything and if you do try something and it doesn't quite work out this time the education and experience are what leads to eventual success or at least improvement.

This is the path and you are not doing the wrong thing. Chin up.
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UTC quote
Had the scooter for 8 months now and never even rode it.
I would love to have finished it but reality hit home.
I've spent over £800 on parts and just can't afford to get it finished any time soon, and I would like my bedroom back lol
@vintage_red_matthew avatar
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MV Santa
GTS250, 1975 VBC, 1980 P200E cutdown
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UTC quote
My Millermatic went belly up and the local Miller repair guy was back up for four months.

Coincidentally just a week or two later the YouTube channel Project Farm did a comparison test of inverter welders.

One of them, Yeswelder was deemed to be of good quality without breaking the bank.

I found a new, open box one on eBay for $250 including shipping. The Miller guy wanted almost that much to diagnose mine.

It comes set up for mig and stick and it will weld aluminum with a Teflon liner and argon.

It will also TIG with an accessory kit.

I couldn't be more satisfied but I guess time will tell if it lasts over the long term.
@buggsy avatar
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UTC quote
Dek, If you can get hold of a SIP Migmate 100 secondhand go for it, been using one for years on car and scooter bodies and the 130 for heavier jobs, I was lucky I was taught by a relative whos a fabrication welder.

My advice to you is once you have a welder go to a scrappers and get a cheap body panel cut a section out and re weld it in do this exercise a few times, plus surface welds (laying a weld) Mig welding only likes clean metal any rust, paint, etc it will spit and fart and your weld will look like Pidgeon shit.

Go on YouTube plenty of tutorials to watch, you need to learn about Ampage, angle, wire thickness, gas pressure and feed speed.

You will also need a grindette, welding gloves, screen and a fire extinguisher.
Hope this helps.

Buggs😉👍
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UTC quote
Dek, just looked on eBay, there's a couple on, 105 turbo and a 130. after you have finished the weld project you will have no problem selling a SIP welder on much sought after little welder.

P.s If you're thinking of welding in a bedroom Facepalm emoticon don't but if this is the only option open the windows put a fire blanket on the floor under the weld site and don't forget the fire extinguisher, Co2 type.
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