Modern Vespa

Trying to set the timing on my VL1. I found the advance set at 18 BTDC... which would explain the lack of grunt, even for this old relic. I mean the scooter, not me. SO, pull the flywheel, loosen the screws, and... oh, wait. That's right. It's set to 18 degrees because that's as far as the stator plate will rotate, that's the limit of the slotted screw holes. That's what happened when I first get it running back something like 16 years ago.

Now, I don't really remember whether that was the original stator, or one I bought, or what. I think it's the original, but I wouldn't testify to it in court. The coils had cotton insulated wire that was a mess; it's possible I just bought a different stator plate for it but I don't remember doing that. Pretty sure I just repaired the coils. I don't remember for sure, though; it's been close to 20 years since I tore that engine down. I don't see a part number anywhere on the stator plate (haven't pulled the coils though), so I don't know if it's the correct Piaggio 16414 or not. I do know it's a Piaggio part; that's cast into it.

Anyway. I suppose I could remove it and elongate the slots another 10 degrees, but not sure if moving the coils that far in relation to the flywheel rotation would screw things up.

I suppose I could break down and buy a CDI kit. I have one that, it turns out, is a steaming pile of crap (remember [redacted]? I do) that doesn't even have the fan mounting holes drilled in a square pattern to match the fan, so I haven't even tried to install it - and won't. I've just been running the original ignition since I got it running, and aside from being a cheap bastard I kinda like the points. But I really would like to get that missing 10 degrees advance.

If the stator is OG something else isn't right? You should be able to get the timing locked in without any shenanigans if it's all factory.

If the stator is aftermarket just elongate the holes.

Can you post a pic? Some folks here (Gickspeed) are super knowledgeable about the old girls. (I am not at all.)

Pics… Yes, I'm aware that there are wires not connected and screws not in. It's being worked on...

Things that could effect timing would be points gap or other points issues. Slop in the flywheel mounting - the key and keyway. Incorrect points and related parts.

Make sure your reading the timing correctly. Take the time to get TDC spot on and measure your degrees accurately.

That's about it. No need to buy an electronic system. The old points systems will work well if the coils and the points are in good condition and they are dialed in correctly. It can be hard to find decent parts. The new stuff can be crap right out of the box.

Yep… I do know how to find TDC, having done that on a wide range of engines ranging from this to various motorcycle, car, and airplane engines. There's zero play or slip in the flywheel; I lapped it to the crank during the rebuild, the keyways are clean and not chewed up, and the key is perfect. The points are what every vendor lists for VL1-3. These came from SIP, but are identical to the last set that came from a US shop.

I probably wouldn't install a new system for the ignition alone… as much as it would be a pain in the ass to have to elongate those slots I could do it. The scooter, when it's running, usually starts on the first or second kick. Retarded timing probably helps with that. The thought of switching to much brighter lights has considerable appeal. If I'm going to have to go to the trouble of tearing this all out to modify the stator plate, I'm halfway there.

I'm starting to think that stator plate got swapped out at some point. Dunno. More archaeological work to be done, I think.