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Good morning…looking to adjust the brake lever positioning slightly on my 2016 MP3 500. Read about poppping the center cap off…quick and painless and removed the 3 screws found under the cap. Gently pried the bottom back seam closest to the dashboard and that side seems ready to come free. Now I'm looking at the bottom front seam closest to a seated rider. Are there more screws to remove? I've found a couple potential deep cutouts just inside the holes for mirror bolt access. Putting a long Phillips and a torx up in there I didn't seem to line up on a screw head. Any suggestions on what needs done next would be appreciated. Todd
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I have the same moto and have also struggled with it.
How to remove steering cover plastic? There are a few joints that are clips vs screws. Taking it all the way off is doable but you really have to guess-n-check looking for screws. |
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Thanks…I got into an online manual and did eventually get it off. I'm sorry, but as much as I love so much about this scooter there's just some seemingly dumbass design stuff that a) I don't know why they ever came up with it in the first place, and b) after years and years made no effort to correct it.
Between the poorly designed space and positioning for feet on the inboard section of the scooter…I mean I'm only 5'9" and my '21 PCX seems spacious in comparison…to the lack of using a real handlebar setup…with literally no latitude for brake lever positioning and adjustments is just crazy for a bike at this price point and seemingly targeting a somewhat affluent and potentially fussy rider. I get this thing disassembled to basically find out there's virtually no adjustment available. My bike has the very nice Titax adjustable levers…which is great as far as it goes…but I'd really like to have been able to move the levers inboard a bit toward center…maybe 3/8-1/2" and roll them down/forward maybe 10 degrees for a bit less pressure on my wrists when braking. To me this is just so important to making a bike feel like your "own"…not to mention no ability to rotate the handlebar. The whole "yeah…this setup is perfect for everyone" is just total bullshit and may have me looking for a used Kymco cv3. |
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I was waved off the Kymco cv3 by my local mechanic. He says he doesn't like to work on them because the bolts have a habit of stripping easily. Additionally the parts supply line in the US is not fully established so replacement Kymco parts (and replacement bolts) in the US are long lead shipping items. The MP3 by contrast has a well established supplier network in the US that can source parts within a few days and larger stuff from overseas take a little longer
I suspect he's probably just using too much force on the bolts. However he has flawlessly worked on my Honda CTX and Piaggio Mp3 so he must know what he's doing. Basically, before you get a Kymco CV3 make sure your local mechanic can (and will) work on it. The nearest Kymco dealer to me that would work on them is a 2hr ride while the nearest MP3 mechanic is 15 minutes away. I still have the Mp3 but got a Honda CTX700 as the second bike now that I'm doing even longer road trips just because local mechanics will work on the Honda and not the Kymco or Mp3 if I have a break down in another state. |
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Those two screws way up in are Phillips at least on my machine. They do seem to be troublesome to get lined up. Two small chrome ones clamp together horizontally underneath but they are exposed. The shell itself is snapped together and is kind of scary taking apart as it feels like it might break. There are more that attach the bottom half of the shroud to the handlebars and one on each side for the switches. I count thirteen in all.
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pinheadh78 wrote: I was waved off the Kymco cv3 by my local mechanic. He says he doesn't like to work on them because the bolts have a habit of stripping easily. Additionally the parts supply line in the US is not fully established so replacement Kymco parts (and replacement bolts) in the US are long lead shipping items. The MP3 by contrast has a well established supplier network in the US that can source parts within a few days and larger stuff from overseas take a little longer I suspect he's probably just using too much force on the bolts. However he has flawlessly worked on my Honda CTX and Piaggio Mp3 so he must know what he's doing. Basically, before you get a Kymco CV3 make sure your local mechanic can (and will) work on it. The nearest Kymco dealer to me that would work on them is a 2hr ride while the nearest MP3 mechanic is 15 minutes away. I still have the Mp3 but got a Honda CTX700 as the second bike now that I'm doing even longer road trips just because local mechanics will work on the Honda and not the Kymco or Mp3 if I have a break down in another state. I bought a ctx DCT with factory bags and added a soft tail case. It was fine and trouble free. I didn't love the chain and frankly… as nice as the DCT was it's really not as smooth or convenient as a cvt. The engine itself was great and so was the gas mileage, but it wasn't as convenient as my pcx for errands and grocery grabbing or as safe, secure and sure footed as I've found my MP3 500 sport. Now I have lots of storage a comfortable seat and adjustable brake levers and I'm solving the foot position dilemma with a relaxed foot forward option soon. Which takes me back to the handlebar and controls lack of adjustment options. I think with a traditional handlebar design and the inclusion of a generous front foot forward slant built into the footwell the MP3 could be just about perfect. And frankly it's sort of amazing to me that a vehicle that's basically been around for 20 years hasn't had a enough complaints/suggestions to address two pretty fundamental areas that in the case of handlebars and adjustability are a part of about every motorcycle ever made… and in regards to the footwell/leg foot position options is super common in many scooters for many years. |
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