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It was taped when i bought it. It looks funky and my et4 doesn't start and has no spark. Maybe correlation - but no clue what it is.
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On the left side - you can see the copper wire coming out
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Alarm connector.
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jimc wrote:
Alarm connector.
I don't think there's an alarm connector on ET4's

that *appears* to be the pigtail for the ECU
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not wrote:
On the left side - you can see the copper wire coming out
with the thing plugged into it? headlight relay.
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greasy125 wrote:
I don't think there's an alarm connector on ET4's

that *appears* to be the pigtail for the ECU
The pigtail is unplugged because i was going to test it, but i am also confused on that aspect.
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not wrote:
The pigtail is unplugged because i was going to test it, but i am also confused on that aspect.
confused in what way?
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greasy125 wrote:
confused in what way?
I don't have spark. Scooter doesn't start. It's 2002 et4. I tested the ignition coil and it has resistance.
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not wrote:
I don't have spark. Scooter doesn't start. It's 2002 et4. I tested the ignition coil and it has resistance.
have you tested the pick up at the stator?

the FSM has the instructions.

seeing the patched together headlight relay, what else has been hacked up in the wiring harness?
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greasy125 wrote:
have you tested the pick up at the stator?

the FSM has the instructions.

seeing the patched together headlight relay, what else has been hacked up in the wiring harness?
Please no short letter words. FSM? Full service manual?

Nothing else hacked. I bought this used 2 weeks ago and it was working for a day. Then stopped working the day after i rode it for 25 minutes and stopped, rode it back and its acceleration was wonky. I rode it again to change oil, stopped 5 minutes out. I got new battery and sparkplug and plug
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greasy125 wrote:
have you tested the pick up at the stator?

the FSM has the instructions.

seeing the patched together headlight relay, what else has been hacked up in the wiring harness?
the pick up at the stator? am i checking resistance? I can't start it so i don't know whether you meant pick up as in started. the service manual says .7-.9 ohms value after disconnecting the voltage regulator connector and check for continutity between each yellow wire and the other two
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not wrote:
the pick up at the stator? am i checking resistance? I can't start it so i don't know whether you meant pick up as in started. the service manual says .7-.9 ohms value after disconnecting the voltage regulator connector and check for continutity between each yellow wire and the other two
yeah, the pick up at the stator. there's a resistance and ohm spec. it's done at the connection to the harness not up at the voltage regulator, that continuity test is only for the voltage side of the stator. the procedure is in the FSM.
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greasy125 wrote:
yeah, the pick up at the stator. there's a resistance and ohm spec. it's done at the connection to the harness not up at the voltage regulator, that continuity test is only for the voltage side of the stator. the procedure is in the FSM.
Howdy, so here's what i did.
I got to the plug of the stator. I found the manual - attached are photos of the stator testing.

I have continuity for 5-3 and 5-1. both make sounds with multimetere.
I have no continuity between 5,3,1 and chassis. i'm guessing that's what good isolation means?
i tested oil low pressure warning sender and 4 and 1 have continuity.

I'm a little confused on the minimum resistance 740+-10 ohms. what's that suppose to mean
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here is the plug photo should in the FSM
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not wrote:
Howdy, so here's what i did.
I got to the plug of the stator. I found the manual - attached are photos of the stator testing.

I have continuity for 5-3 and 5-1. both make sounds with multimetere.
I have no continuity between 5,3,1 and chassis. i'm guessing that's what good isolation means?
i tested oil low pressure warning sender and 4 and 1 have continuity.

I'm a little confused on the minimum resistance 740+-10 ohms. what's that suppose to mean
those tests are for the electrical output of the stator, not the ignition portion.

you need to test the pick up: #2 and ground- resistance 105~124 ohms

I'm assuming that you've worked the tree and done the other prescribed tests on the HT coil, cap and wiring for that as well as the ECU?
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greasy125 wrote:
those tests are for the electrical output of the stator, not the ignition portion.

you need to test the pick up: #2 and ground- resistance 105~124 ohms

I'm assuming that you've worked the tree and done the other prescribed tests on the HT coil, cap and wiring for that as well as the ECU?
I got 120 ohms between #2. I checked HT (ignition coil from google search) and it says 3000+- 300 on manual.
i measured it and i found 3.58 resistance ohms at 20k (meaning 3580 ohms) between either end whether green or black to the connection between the wire and both green and black outlets. i don't know if that's good or bad to be honest.

I do not believe it is the HT because it's above the range of reistance. It wasn't showing anything last night for some reason - it did change in temperature from 60 to 85 degrees.
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greasy125 wrote:
those tests are for the electrical output of the stator, not the ignition portion.

you need to test the pick up: #2 and ground- resistance 105~124 ohms

I'm assuming that you've worked the tree and done the other prescribed tests on the HT coil, cap and wiring for that as well as the ECU?
also, i greatly appreciate you mate. helped me go through the prompt. i had the service manual, but sheesh is that a lot to digest. Razz emoticon
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not wrote:
I got 120 ohms between #2. I checked HT (ignition coil from google search) and it says 3000+- 300 on manual.
i measured it and i found 3.58 resistance ohms at 20k (meaning 3580 ohms) between either end whether green or black to the connection between the wire and both green and black outlets. i don't know if that's good or bad to be honest.

i also looked at manual and it said to renew the high voltage cable if within specs of .4-.5. i got .5 going from the 2 ends. does renew mean get new? confusion i attached a photo to see.

I do not believe it is the HT because it's above the range of reistance. It wasn't showing anything last night for some reason - it did change in temperature from 60 to 85 degrees.
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here's what i did. i reconnected everything (besides box for the flywheel). It's still cranking. this is the video of the sound.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/BLqXVp2V3dU

I replaced the ignition (HV) coil, sparkplug, and cap. I tested the stator as shown above. I have 2 black keys and a brown key.

I still do not have spark after testing on motor.

I will recheck wiring if anything as that is next step. It seems that it is in good condition. I do not have continuity between violet and black from the ECU - guessing i'm going to have to check wiring and take off all the metals.

i checked all the lights, turn signals, horn, breaks - all work. my battery sits at 12.5v when turned on and using lights
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