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Hello - i'm on my 3rd step of ignition system diagnosis. I see this and am confused. am i connecting to battery? I connected the battery and got 27.5 volts on alternating voltage. is that correct? attached is photo. i measured V~ (Alternate voltage sign on multimeter set at 200) and got 27.5, but did not crank. I think that might be something. confusion regarding, any explanation appreciated
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I've already went through these steps and gotten the ranges specified. this is the next step in ignition system diagnosis and i am a little confused as to the ask.
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I ran it with wires and cranked it. got around 25ish voltage.
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Why on earth are you measuring across the battery for AC volts from the pick-up?

And what wires have you connected to what?
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hahah Jim, i had no clue what i was doing. I measured the stator at pick up and it had continuitity but not enough resistance. so my next step is to replace stator unless you have any idea how to fix a bad stator with very low ohms?
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not wrote:
hahah Jim, i had no clue what i was doing. I measured the stator at pick up and it had continuitity but not enough resistance. so my next step is to replace stator unless you have any idea how to fix a bad stator with very low ohms?
How low, and (if you have no clue what you are doing) are you sure the meter was on a suitable range, and zeroed? If it looks like the coil is actually short, double check for chafing of the wires with a short to ground, including up inside the stator itself.

I'm concerned about the wires I can see in your photo - connecting 'things' to the battery directly can result in very dead devices.
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jimc wrote:
How low, and (if you have no clue what you are doing) are you sure the meter was on a suitable range, and zeroed? If it looks like the coil is actually short, double check for chafing of the wires with a short to ground, including up inside the stator itself.

I'm concerned about the wires I can see in your photo - connecting 'things' to the battery directly can result in very dead devices.
I put connector 2 to the positive side of the battery. I put connector 8 to the negative side of the battery… uhh, i don't know if i was suppose to do that. See first picture before the haphazard wiring.
I got a multimeter and tested 5-3, 5-1 for continuity. I got continuity and 1.3 for 5-1, 1 from 5-3 at a setting of 200 on the ohms multimeter.

I also got a continuity from chassis and connector 4 with engine shut off. I really hope my wiring didn't short anything and make my day worse.
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here is the photo of the manual i used as a guide.
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i am confused by my first photo then. what does the positive terminal to connector no.2 and negative terminal to no.8 mean then? i thought it meant battery. I cranked the engine by operating the electric start with key in >.>
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not wrote:
i am confused by my first photo then. what does the positive terminal of your test meter to connector no.2 and negative terminal of your test meter to no.8 mean then?
See my additions above...
Quote:
i thought it meant battery.
ARRGH!
Quote:
I cranked the engine by operating the electric start with key in >.>
Very, very seriously - do NOT touch this again yourself, and please get a friend who understands electrics to do these tests for you - you have narrowly missed completely buggering your bike.

If you must carry on yourself, double-check here first before going any further - and you don't need ANY extra wires.
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mate, i spent 1650$ on a 02 et4 without a working code light, speedometer, and odometer stuck at 2800ish. It ran for a good night and then half the day before dying at a stoplight. I got a new battery and sparkplug and it ran for a couple minutes before dying. It has no spark now.

I am beyond irritated, but am patient enough to fix it with the manual.

i will ask questions here - i have been and I will continue to till i get my vespa fixed.

i appreciate you for the help.
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0 V~ on 2 (green) positive and 8 (black) negative connection to multimeter. wtf is a pick up? i know it as a truck hurhurhur jabba the hut laugh
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the pickup is in the stator and creates the spark. it's a HAL sensor.

in terms of "no spark" situations, this ranks up there as a culprit.
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greasy125 wrote:
it's a HAL sensor.

Greasy with the acronyms!?
HAL from malcolm in the middle?
Hello mate, appreciate:)
Reporting back after i get new pick up tomorrow from store - hopefully they got
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Dont look right.
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Also i can spin the flywheel but with difficulty. Like some spots it'll be rough and others smooth
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What looks wrong? One side of the internal coil is connected to the white wire that disappears into the yellow sleeving, the other side is connected to the metal bracket.
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jimc wrote:
What looks wrong? One side of the internal coil is connected to the white wire that disappears into the yellow sleeving, the other side is connected to the metal bracket.
It was mighty covered in black muck. I guess you are right.

Double checked power supply to spark plug. Pickup has continuity and resistance but does not have ac power. Will double check, but it is hard to place them in the tiny wires - will double/triple check.
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looks like somebody's been in there. those all appear to be replacement parts.

oil leak is likely from the head/barrel, or a split valve cover gasket.

fyi, you'll need a flywheel puller to replace the assembly. the pickup is not sold separately.
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greasy125 wrote:
looks like somebody's been in there. those all appear to be replacement parts.

oil leak is likely from the head/barrel, or a split valve cover gasket.

fyi, you'll need a flywheel puller to replace the assembly. the pickup is not sold separately.
If it measures OK, they may not need to...
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jimc wrote:
If it measures OK, they may not need to...
indeed. test first as always.

but why that's all apart is beyond me. you can perform that test at the stator plug to main harness. so unless the values are out of spec, no reason to go in.

if the values are out of spec, the whole encharito gets the R&R.

*shrugs*
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greasy125 wrote:
indeed. test first as always.

but why that's all apart is beyond me. you can perform that test at the stator plug to main harness. so unless the values are out of spec, no reason to go in.

if the values are out of spec, the whole encharito gets the R&R.

*shrugs*
Values are correct. No continuity - i'm guessing i'll have to retrace the steps. Ohms are 120. Spec of 100-130. Wish me luck in this wire tracing event
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