OP
@colinbelgium avatar
UTC

Hooked
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
Joined: UTC
Posts: 265
Location: Belgium
 
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@colinbelgium avatar
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
Joined: UTC
Posts: 265
Location: Belgium
UTC quote
Hello,

Made a great deal on a 65 VNB6t.

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What is the necessity of that shit ?!

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It has been a pain to remove, windscreen glue is hard to cut when you have poor access

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I scrapped the paint of the floorboard, not the best, a bit of corrosion

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The right floor board is in a very bad condition, the scoot had an accident and was poorly repaired, I can't find the pictures I took from now, I will post them later.

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The Vespa is in ok condition, the fuel tank was full of rust... I took the carb off in order to give it a bath into the ultrasonic cleaner, replaced all gaskets, used a separate fuel tank to test, the engine easily started ! Yeah

I think I'm going to replace the leg shield + floor, in 1 piece.

I need to find the weld spots and cut into.

I will also replace the horn cover, but how is fixed onto the leg shield ? I cant see any signs of spot welds, is it glued ?
@sjoerdo avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
Faro basso 53, Motovespa 58, V50 71
Joined: UTC
Posts: 52
Location: Netherlands
 
Enthusiast
@sjoerdo avatar
Faro basso 53, Motovespa 58, V50 71
Joined: UTC
Posts: 52
Location: Netherlands
UTC quote
the horn cover should be spot-welded. The dimples probably got bondo'd away when it got its repaint.

Sure you want to replace it, it's a very difficult part to replace...
OP
@colinbelgium avatar
UTC

Hooked
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
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Location: Belgium
 
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@colinbelgium avatar
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
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Posts: 265
Location: Belgium
UTC quote
I have to replace the nose cover as it will be destroyed when I will remove the leg shield. I can try to save it but I have low faith into that !
UTC

Molto Verboso
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1994
Location: Philadelphia
 
Molto Verboso
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1994
Location: Philadelphia
UTC quote
Since you're removing the whole floor and leg shield you could cut the horn cast out and then grind the backside off until you remove the leg shield metal that would still be there and reuse it?
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@colinbelgium avatar
UTC

Hooked
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
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Location: Belgium
 
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@colinbelgium avatar
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
Joined: UTC
Posts: 265
Location: Belgium
UTC quote
FridayMatinee wrote:
Since you're removing the whole floor and leg shield you could cut the horn cast out and then grind the backside off until you remove the leg shield metal that would still be there and reuse it?
Good idea ! I'll try to save it, depends on how the leg shield will remain after cutting the spot welds
OP
@colinbelgium avatar
UTC

Hooked
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
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@colinbelgium avatar
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
Joined: UTC
Posts: 265
Location: Belgium
UTC quote
Creative ! Facepalm emoticon

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This is the reason why I want to replace the floor board and the leg shield

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I could see some bondo layers under the paint, I sanded the paint to check and have no clue why they did that ! Nothing shows it has been into and accident, no rust. Maybe older owners wanted to hide the spotwelds deformation ? I don't know, but anyway this was a shit job ! There is a layer of bondo everywhere and the sanding has been done by a 4 years old boy... On some places I can see the original color (Azzuro blue) under the braking switch for example. It has been repaint in green, orange then black.

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No rust on the underside as well, the orange-ish color is old paint

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Now I need to find a method to separate the leg shield/floor from the chassis.
I was thinking cutting the floor board/leg shied along the seam on each side + same into the middle part, make an opening in between the metal sheets and then use a multitool with a flat grinding blade.

Is this ok or is there a better method ? This is a first for me !
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

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'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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UTC quote
Nice job getting those aluminum floorboards off! It seems like it's a solid but abandoned bike.

I would be tempted to see if the legshield could be saved and just replace the floor if you must, but even that may be salvageable depending on how prefect you need it to be. I'd get at least the leggy media blasted or chem stripped to see what you have before you pull the trigger.
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Looks like just that bad wrinkle on the lower edge & most damage is in the floor. I believe a competent auto body tech could fix that so you wouldn't know and then you don't have to worry about the horncast problem. Likely cheaper too!

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The nearly perfect shape of your leggy in this shot says original or somebody was very talented w/ bondo. Do a magnet test and post up a pic of the back side which can tell us more?
ColinBelgium wrote:
...

I could see some bondo layers under the paint, I sanded the paint to check and have no clue why they did that ! Nothing shows it has been into and accident, no rust...

...No rust on the underside as well, the orange-ish color is old paint

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Now I need to find a method to separate the leg shield/floor from the chassis.
I was thinking cutting the floor board/leg shied along the seam on each side + same into the middle part, make an opening in between the metal sheets and then use a multitool with a flat grinding blade.

Is this ok or is there a better method ? This is a first for me !
You may disagree, but I hate to see you chopping up such a solid rustfree old bike.
⚠️ Last edited by V oodoo on UTC; edited 1 time
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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UTC quote
To remove spotwelds you would need a spotweld cutter like these:

OP
@colinbelgium avatar
UTC

Hooked
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
Joined: UTC
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@colinbelgium avatar
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
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Posts: 265
Location: Belgium
UTC quote
V oodoo wrote:
You may disagree, but I hate to see you chopping up such a solid rustfree old bike.
I understand what you mean concerning chopping a nice bike. Yes there is no rust, but the floor and the side of the shield are too far gone, it missing some material. I want to bike to be perfect (see my yellow Chiquita rebuilt topic).

I could chop the needed part from another panel and weld but for that I would have to acquire the whole new panel (floor + legshield) as the floor only would not be sufficient in height. It would take more time to cut/weld and I would have to hammer/dolly quite a lot because of warping at the weld seam.
The top of the shield is also in poor shape, I'll take a picture to show you

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OP
@colinbelgium avatar
UTC

Hooked
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@colinbelgium avatar
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
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Location: Belgium
UTC quote
I am glad I removed the legshield and the floorboards ! There was quite some rust underneath !
Thanks to V oodoo for the link, I bought some spotweld cutters, it went quite smooth.

This a part of the middle floor, impossible to spot the rust from outside as it is under the reinforcing bar

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This is very tiny without the floor and the legshield !!
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I started working on sanding the rust off

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There is still quite a lot of rust to work out, and I have to sand some remaining spot welds

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@hibbert avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Vespa
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1757
Location: California
 
Molto Verboso
@hibbert avatar
Vespa
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Posts: 1757
Location: California
UTC quote
Wow very cool to see inside the tunnel looking good
@bajarob avatar
UTC

Addicted
1961 VS5T, 1981 P200E, Rigid Frame Chopper, 2001 Harley FXDXT
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Location: Ventura, CA
 
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@bajarob avatar
1961 VS5T, 1981 P200E, Rigid Frame Chopper, 2001 Harley FXDXT
Joined: UTC
Posts: 953
Location: Ventura, CA
UTC quote
Man that looks skinny! Glad you took the plunge. The floorboard was really bad. Amazing what you can find in there. Can't wait to see the new parts welded on.
UTC

Molto Verboso
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1994
Location: Philadelphia
 
Molto Verboso
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1994
Location: Philadelphia
UTC quote
I usually see people weld on a bracing bar from the nose of the tank cavity to the steering column to keep it from twisting when they remove the leg shield. Might be a good idea to do that?
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@colinbelgium avatar
UTC

Hooked
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
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UTC quote
FridayMatinee wrote:
I usually see people weld on a bracing bar from the nose of the tank cavity to the steering column to keep it from twisting when they remove the leg shield. Might be a good idea to do that?
Could be usefull if the chassis was rusted through but this one is rock solid and straight, this is surface rust, it is very stiff. No need for bracing in that case
UTC

Molto Verboso
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1994
Location: Philadelphia
 
Molto Verboso
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1994
Location: Philadelphia
UTC quote
ColinBelgium wrote:
Could be usefull if the chassis was rusted through but this one is rock solid and straight, this is surface rust, it is very stiff. No need for bracing in that case
10-4. I'm no expert so figured I'd bring it up just in case!
Carry on fine sir
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UTC

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'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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UTC quote
Nice work getting it apart! That special cutter really helps, I first used one on this project and it made quick work of deleting unwanted spotwelds. Problematic dead Pluramatic PK - 4 speed repower project

After seeing your work on Chiquita scooter, I'm just gonna trust you to find the right way to get this as perfect as you want it to be. 2 things: Do you know about Ospho for treating rust? And let us know your plans for welding new floor & leggy?

The brace is still a good idea to add, your frame is pretty flimsy now and the brace helps keeps it straight when new leggy and floor are added on. I think you could keep a laser setup on it as the welding is done if you don't want to brace it.
@safis avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
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@safis avatar
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4329
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UTC quote
Nice work! You should weld a brace cause heat will twist the frame when you'll weld up the legshield. On the frames I worked on, I first sandblasted the tunnel / neck, then treated it with rust inhibitor and sprayed it with weld through primer. On your frame, I'd widen a bit the arch to help the cables / loom go in easier…
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OP
@colinbelgium avatar
UTC

Hooked
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
Joined: UTC
Posts: 265
Location: Belgium
 
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@colinbelgium avatar
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
Joined: UTC
Posts: 265
Location: Belgium
UTC quote
I was going to proceed the same as you did, I can't sandblast but I'going to sand the rust off where I can, then use rust converter then zinc welding primer.

The chassis will be braced as it seems important to most, even though I don't really believe the frame could twist seeing the shape of the central beam, or maybe if you use a torch that will heat a lot around the weld, here a spot welder will be used, means I don't have to punch holes along edges !
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@colinbelgium avatar
UTC

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VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
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@colinbelgium avatar
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
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Location: Belgium
UTC quote
I have a problem taking the front mudguard off the fork, the 3 top screws are rusted as hell, I was able to unbolt the 3 nuts from underneath (with pain) but I can't get the 3 screws out from the top...

Is it possible that there is a thread inside the aluminium into the fork where the 3 screw go into ? If so, why are 3 nuts underneath ?! I can't push the screws from the back, this is rock solid.

2 options : the aluminium part is not threaded -> air hammer, or, there is a thread and I might be in trouble using the air hammer ! I could even damage the fork.

Problem with that flat screwdriver driven screws is that you can't force them, they self destroy...

Thanks
@safis avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4329
Location: Veria, Greece
 
Ossessionato
@safis avatar
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4329
Location: Veria, Greece
UTC quote
No threads in the aluminum. They tend to seize. Hammer time!!!
UTC

Molto Verboso
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1994
Location: Philadelphia
 
Molto Verboso
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1994
Location: Philadelphia
UTC quote
Heat and penetrating oil will help.
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@colinbelgium avatar
UTC

Hooked
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
Joined: UTC
Posts: 265
Location: Belgium
 
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@colinbelgium avatar
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
Joined: UTC
Posts: 265
Location: Belgium
UTC quote
Thanks guys
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@colinbelgium avatar
UTC

Hooked
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
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Location: Belgium
 
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@colinbelgium avatar
VBA1T/Px200 iris/VNB6t
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Posts: 265
Location: Belgium
UTC quote
Little update, but long time spent removing the rust...

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I'm finishing the prep work before welding the new legshield/floor.

I think I'm going tu use a rust converter on the inside and a coat of Hammerite paint, and a weld through primer (Zinc based) on the edges where the 2 parts will be welded.
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7091
Location: Tega Cay, SC
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
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Location: Tega Cay, SC
UTC quote
That looks great. I applaud your patience - something I am in short supply of lately. Keep it up and post lots of pics...
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