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Im trying to take off a bolt on my vespa T5's engine cover but i don't have a screwdriver for it, it's too wide for any of mine, anyone knows what screwdriver i should buy [/img]
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zoomed in [/img]
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Looks like a normal minus screw to me. However, looking at the state of the surrounding metal, I would've thought a good tug would get that thing out

Seriously though, it'll probably need soaking in Plusgas or similar if it's to come out without damaging the casing thread.
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You will want to take this one carefully. Heat the case and use an impact screwdriver.

In fact , you will want to take all of it carefully. Lots of aluminum oxidation.
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Coke white AF1's wouldn't be my first choice to wear when wrenching on something that rusty
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whodatschrome wrote:
something that rusty
Umm thats patina sir..
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Molto Verboso
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Definitely take your time and walk away to ponder if you get stuck. I was also thinking you may need to use an impact driver but after applying heat and maybe penetrating oil for a few days before attempting.
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...in addition to penetrating oil and heat... don't be afraid to try and tighten it a hair too. The key is to get any movement you can. As they say, all the giggle is in the wiggle. You wanna get some movement in any directon to break the rust/crust. I will often go left/right, left/right, left/right until I get give in either direction.

Flathead screw is gonna make this extra challenging. Good luck.
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Sometimes tightening first is the only way to get it off. Working in the land of dissimilar metals has humbled and aggravated me numerous times. Sometimes a couple wacks with a hammer gets things going. Heat works wonders, sometimes swearing too.
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thank you for your replies, but the biggest problem i have is the slot is too wide, i cant fit any screwdriver there, maybe the screw is damaged or its just like that, what should I do
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tomasvfs wrote:
thank you for your replies, but the biggest problem i have is the slot is too wide, i cant fit any screwdriver there, maybe the screw is damaged or its just like that, what should I do
Those screws have a big slot. Check Amazon. While you're at it check out the impact driver you use with a hammer. They come with multiple tips. Here's a pick of a fatty from Craftsman.
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which measurements should i be looking for
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IMHO SL6 or SL8.
But, as mentioned above, some heating and WD40 is good idea before unscrewing.
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Thank you all, ill make sure to follow your advices
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Might even be able to use the screw driver sideways so you get the advantage of a lever as long as you can keep it in the slot.
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you are using that wrong tools bro. Buy an impact screwdriver. then buy some bits that are bigger, yes they do exist form real parts suppliers. you will 100% have to heat up that case. What you do not want to do is break that head off that screw. . .as that is an entirely different problem that generally deals with welding a nut onto what is left and backing it out. I kinda know what i'm talking about, check out this Nasty 1955 Allstate case

USA parts supplier McMaster Carr offers this USA made impact screwdriver-https://www.mcmaster.com/products/impact-screwdrivers/screwdrivers~/
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Thank you for all your replies, regarding the other bolts they all came out without damage or difficulty, the engine itself somehow is in mint condition and the bolts are all too besides the rusty look, kinda crazy. Ill follow your advices and get proper equipment and oil.
Regarding taking out the engine, any tips?
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tomasvfs wrote:
Thank you for all your replies, regarding the other bolts they all came out without damage or difficulty, the engine itself somehow is in mint condition and the bolts are all too besides the rusty look, kinda crazy. Ill follow your advices and get proper equipment and oil.
Regarding taking out the engine, any tips?
Its not too difficult. Disconnect all cables and wires. Then rear shock bolt, then the big engine bolt. I like to drive that bolt out with a long drift (big screwdriver or steel rod), as it helps hold that side of engine up while pulling the bolt out the spare side.

Before doing this, loft the frame up under the floorboard, so You have room to drop the engine down. A milkcrate is the perfect size, or a 2x4 under the center stand feet works too.
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tomasvfs wrote:
Thank you for all your replies, regarding the other bolts they all came out without damage or difficulty, the engine itself somehow is in mint condition and the bolts are all too besides the rusty look, kinda crazy. Ill follow your advices and get proper equipment and oil.
Regarding taking out the engine, any tips?
i suspect the 3 screws holding your stator plate on will need that impact. just sayin'.
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PB Blaster - let it soak overnight

If you don't have a wide flat tip, grind one down

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