Vdimaio77 wrote:
Hmmmm I like this option even better I didn't realize or see that there is a 10" 4 lug wheel available..
The SIP web site isn't always easy to find things on.
What are the exact spring and damper on the front as well upgrade that you did?
I'm interested and send the links.
Any other upgrades?
Also what did you do about the voltage regulator I'm going to need one of those as well. Since everything is going to 12v now.
Any mods to the kickstand?
Does the P200 original exhaust fit well... It appears to be wedging up against the kick stand spring.
Any other recommendations or advise would be great. I'm glad I'm not the first to experiment with mounting a P200 Engine on a VBB T2 1963 vespa 150 frame.
Dude…don't **** around with that 10" SIP conversion wheel. The absolute last place you want compromised suspension travel is on the front tire! If you still feel the need to risk it, install a zirc fitting inside your front brake drum and pump it full of grease so that it will render your front brake inoperable. That or slather axle grease on the inside of the mudguard so that the tire won't lock up under heavy braking.
I've converted two different 8" scooters to 10" with P200 engines. One is a Wideframe VB1 200 and the other is a VNA Allstate 200. I used a P200 fork on the VB1. It took a LOT of modifications to the fork to make it happen. It also took a LOT of work to get the mudguard to fit centered over the top of the tire. Using a P or PX fork is a terrible choice. I used a PKXL fork in my Allstate. It fits better than a P fork, but that too also took a TON more sheetmetal and fork modifications to get it exactly centered and no tire rub at full suspension compression. I have lots of sheetmetal and welding experience, and it still took me about 5 years to figure out my plan of attack!
One fairly easy option is to use a PKXL fork and a fiberglass PLC conversion VBB fender.
An other option that's even easier (and not very aesthetically pleasing) would be to install a "hugger" low fender.
I have one more upcoming project that involves a "modern" P engine swap into an old 8" wideframe, but this time i will keep it on eights. The 10" conversion just takes TONS of time to do correctly.
I'm not going to tell you to not convert over to 10", but i wouldn't try using a P fork, and especially not a 10" conversion wheel.