Modern Vespa

Hi All, First post so be gentle. I know a DR177 isnt everyones choice but I'm deep in now so comments on my selection of upgrade kit will be wasted.

Despite the DR177 upgrade and tuning going well I've hit an issue. The SIP Road 2 no longer lines up the bolt/captive nut once exhaust connected to new barrel. Tried with and without barrel connected, it connects fine when not connected to the new barrel but exhaust to barrel is circa 20mm short .

When SR2/barrel connected the retaining bolt isnt horizontal, its around 6/7 degrees out, sits in the bracket hole but nowhere near the captive nut (despite it being loose).

I've known other PX owners perform this upgrade and there are members of the forum stating its achievable but no mention of exhaust misalignment problems/solutions.

Any advice would be appreciated to get the SR2 to fit. Alternatively am I looking at an easier bolt on solution, ie new but different exhaust?.

To be honest, swapping in a spare tyre with SR2 in situ is a complete nut-ache at the side of the road so maybe a new exhaust is the solution but i could do without the expense.

Thanks in advance for responses. I aim to keep the post updated for future reference should members need guidance.

Morgo444 (Ian)

Post this on the NSM side. You will get a lot more responses from the 2T crowd there.

Ta!

Welcome to the Dark Side!

So I have this exact combination on one my bikes and it has no such issues.

Also, I've never had an issue changing the rear wheel with this setup, so post up some pictures of what you're dealing with and it should be an easy fix.

Here's pictures of my Known Good setup of same.

Where are you starting with jetting? I kept the 20/20 and am at something like 140/BE5/118 on mine.

You're missing the engine bolt nut. Hate to see you go for a cruise and lose the power plant

well spotted Geeklion . Hope the member took photo just after installation and engine bolt placed on afterwards.

thanks for the reply Chandlerman. I'll keep on scrutinising the underneath connections and work out where I'm going wrong. I'll post photos if/when I get a chance, scoot not at home, currently mates garage

Anything advertised as plug n' play might require slight adjustments with these scoots. Usually it is more like plug n' pray.

For example my Polini Box with 210 Malossi needed a slice taken off right after the stub to fit. It was hanging way too low straight out of factory.


Slice off and welded back


Don't be tempted to force the exhaust to it's place. If there is tension on the pipe to some direction, something will give in and break because of vibrations and heat. If you are lucky, it will be the exhaust. If not so, the stub:

You can get creative and bend/twist the exhaust and/or bracket into the correct orientation, but as someone else said, the SIP Road 2 is notorious for being a bit hit or miss from the factory. I would personally try a different exhaust, and have had good experience with a BGM BigBox Touring (on a DR177). Also you mentioned the issue getting the wheel on and off? Do you have the SR2 with the twin tailpipes? If so, I would definitely change it. I've had one of those, but never again.

and to add to details.... the SIP Road 2 is a twin pipe so limits access to the hub nut hence delays getting wheels on and off.

Yes, you guessed it, twin pipes.. Looks 1 - Practicality 0

PLUG & PRAY! LOVE IT!

It's on there. Has been for several months and several miles, including Band Camp.

It's just hard to see the captive nut because I was taking the picture blind and it's blurry.

I never owned a DR177 kit but the other malossi and polini kits that I had based on my experience you would have to negotiate and hassle the fitment in most cases. Only my malossi cylinder kit with Malossi exhaust fit perfectly but most of the times things are a bit off and you have to hit it with a mallet, twist the exhaust while on the spigetin order to fit in the center of the frame , etc.

a lot has to do with the angle of the spiget on the cylinder kit that you purchase but in summary most of the exhaust and cylinder kits you have to wrestle the fit: pry, mallet, twisting, etc. Is not just a DR177 affair.

While fitment is a challenge more often than not, OP has 20mm(!) of mis-alignment. That's a LOT more than normal fitment issues. Hence my request for pictures.

I agree with you. 20mm is huge. Why do you think that is? Many exhuast boxes that I had in the past the captived nut on the back of the suare metal welded box hardly lined up. I always had to use a scribe to move the nut side to side and up and down to line it up with the screw. Also the two exhaust vertical walls that suppose to line up with the center engine case subframe most of the times did not line up while trying to line up with the exhaust spigot. I always had to force it by bending or prying but 20mm off is a lot.

Even when you manage to line up both I always ended up having to tap the botton of the exhaust box to be able to keep sling in the exhaust tube into the spigot.

Sounds like a cut and weld to fit or get a different exhaust cause that one is too far off. They must've pulled that one out from the seconds pile.

I am 99.97% sure there is no nut on that bolt. There is way too much thread showing.... Might be worth a double check. Please correct me if I'm wrong, just lookin out for ya!

I think someone is thinking exhaust bolt and someone else knows they're talking about the engine mounting/swing arm bolt

Yep, that's freaking me out!

you guys are freaking out about the picture that chandlerman added, not a picture from the OP....

Oh, shit! I was looking at the exhaust bolt.

If it's gone, that nut has probably been missing for months, too.

Funnily enough I never thought it was right from the minute I recvd it direct from SIP. There was paint all over the two chrome pipes and the captive nut box position needed manipulation to fit. 18 months on and it now seems worse with the new set up/barrel 🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️

Glad it's been spotted, lucky man 👍👍

It's an ecumenical matter relating to a man's safety, I think it's more important than my post but thanks for making a point, appreciated 👍

😝

LOL! But also, Nope.

That's just an M12 nut and washer. No cotter pin. As you can see, it can go months without ever working its way out on its own. .

Hahahaha Nice work Chandlerman! That could have been an epic reset to your explosion clock

haha! yep! Sorry for the threadjack morgo444. Just lookin out for a MV brother!

Now back to our regularly scheduled topic -

now back to the regular programming - 20mm - that's nearly an inch. that's just not right. any possibility you got a pipe for the 200 instead of the smaller blocks?

You could be on to something there...

Feel the love, my man. They're saving you from a counter reset.

Title from the listing as follows. Mine is a 2011 PXE. I feel its correct

'Vespa PX 125 E Classic VNX2T DR 177cc 63mm Cylinder Kit'

Is the pipe new? The cylinder new? What has changed?

Barrel new, pipe existing 👍

Thread the bolt into the caged nut first, just enough so the caged nut can still move around. Don't forget to torque it later.

Persuade the exhaust arm closer by slowly and carefully hitting the front of the bend with a heavy hammer while holding/pulling/positioning the mount.
That arm is malleable enough to get there from 20mm short, and with heat by riding any tension left in that arm will go away (if your experience is like mine 3x).

You could also just cut off the "Sport" end of that exhaust if you don't want to replace it for a more practical one.

Good advice from Ray.

Is the "Sport" exhaust the version that has the two little chrome extensions that actually reduce the exhaust spigot area, thus effectively de-sporting the exhaust?

It is and as a human magpie I chose it for the chrome pipes but you're probably correct, performance is possibly compromised ! 🤦🏻‍♂️

I recall a dyno a few years back comparing the regular with the twin outlet exhaust and there actually was a small performance advantage.


Morgo444, there's a fix somewhere here (Tips & Tricks thread maybe?) where you can cut off the pipes and re-attach using sleeves & a bracket. Just take them off when you want to change the wheel.

Also if you click on the Browse button below "attachments" you can upoad a photo.

I was having problems getting the captive nut to engage one time and I came up with a solution that may help others but it won't get anywhere close to 20mm.
I just got a bolt 5 or 10mm longer and bevelled the end down on a grinder to a tapered point. Just sharp enough to locate the hole in the nut and everything went smooth after that.