OP
@danie avatar
UTC

Hooked
'57 VN2, '70 180 Rally, '80 P150X, '80 P200E, '05 GT200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 371
Location: George, South Africa
 
Hooked
@danie avatar
'57 VN2, '70 180 Rally, '80 P150X, '80 P200E, '05 GT200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 371
Location: George, South Africa
UTC quote
The 6V vintage Vespas have 3 coils on their stators: the ignition coil, a 6V coil (green wire) feeding the horn and a 12V coil with a blue wire feeding the brake light, and a yellow wire feeding the lights.

At present the brake light burns weakly, and the light bulbs get blown because they get 30V+.

It is the first time ever that I have encountered this problem. Is the 12V coil faulty, or what could be the problem?
@fraggleexport avatar
UTC

Hooked
'65 Sprint 177/ '17 GTS300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 468
Location: Dorset, UK
 
Hooked
@fraggleexport avatar
'65 Sprint 177/ '17 GTS300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 468
Location: Dorset, UK
UTC quote
The bulbs (obviously) will blow if they see 30v. I'm not to aware of your setup but you must have a regulator fitted between coils and your bulbs to keep the ac voltage stable right?
Kevin
@safis avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4488
Location: Veria, Greece
 
Ossessionato
@safis avatar
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4488
Location: Veria, Greece
UTC quote
It's a stupidly designed balanced system. You need to have all the bulbs at the correct required wattage, a healthy loom and all contacts / connections clean and tight...
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
@danie avatar
UTC

Hooked
'57 VN2, '70 180 Rally, '80 P150X, '80 P200E, '05 GT200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 371
Location: George, South Africa
 
Hooked
@danie avatar
'57 VN2, '70 180 Rally, '80 P150X, '80 P200E, '05 GT200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 371
Location: George, South Africa
UTC quote
My setup is as per the wiring diagram. New loom and bulbs, so I will have to check all the connections
@veloce_vulture avatar
UTC

Addicted
1957 NSU Prima III
Joined: UTC
Posts: 834
Location: House Arrest
 
Addicted
@veloce_vulture avatar
1957 NSU Prima III
Joined: UTC
Posts: 834
Location: House Arrest
UTC quote
SaFiS wrote:
It's a stupidly designed balanced system. You need to have all the bulbs at the correct required wattage, a healthy loom and all contacts / connections clean and tight...
-1% on stupidly ROFL emoticon
When these bees were designed there were no common streetlights, like we have today. Any light at all was glaringly obvious. But first you could hear it coming anyway. In the old maintenance manuals the recommended electrical disposable was Vaseline on the contacts. The properties of Vaseline kept the vibration down and the metals from corroding, both of which make the system less durable. If durability is what you desire only following the old rules work. Nobody wants to ride a Christmas tree light set, used only once a year. Never forget everything was designed with pencils.
How many times I've saved someone in their travels just by adding petroleum to the contacts is lost to me. I guess it's my universal tax I pay to not having the struggle of such trifles. Aloha
@garncarz avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
1964 Allstate Cruisaire, 2022 Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, 1972 Suzuki T500J
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1067
Location: York, PA (the intellectual center of the universe)
 
Molto Verboso
@garncarz avatar
1964 Allstate Cruisaire, 2022 Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, 1972 Suzuki T500J
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1067
Location: York, PA (the intellectual center of the universe)
UTC quote
SaFiS wrote:
It's a stupidly designed balanced system. You need to have all the bulbs at the correct required wattage, a healthy loom and all contacts / connections clean and tight...
This. Every single bulb needs to be the stated wattage in the manual/wiring diagram. That would be the first thing to check.
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