Modern Vespa

Hello,
The fork and pivot on my Sprint 150 VLB1T 10" had been changed to suit full hydraulic disc by a previous owner. I would like to find out details of what I am dealing with as the pivot is made of steel not alloy as per pics, all I can find are references to alloy
Hopefully the brains trust can assist me on this as I've searched everywhere and I can't find an answer. Thanks in advance.
PS the fork pivot mount tube has been trimmed back I would assume to maintain front and rear wheel tracking, it looks like a crack in it but all is good
Cheers
Stu

That's some ambitious backyard engineering right there! I'd recommend replacing w/ stock aluminum alloy part and stock drum brake, or legit front disk brake if you really want but it'll be spendy. Either way you'll want to rebuild all of the bottom end of your fork. You may even need to replace that fork.

Hmmm. What does the rest of the scooter look like? Two tone with brown vinyl single saddle?
That fork link looks very bodgy to me and certainly makes the spidey sense tingle! I'd be very suss about the fork itself as well. You'll pick up a better fork than that pretty easily around your way. Try a post on the FB group Australian Scooterists Classic Riders. Or you may still be able to buy all new from GPS Imports in Melbourne.

Thanks for that, I put some other pics of the thing

All that "work" for a visibly unappealing swingarm and still have a trailing link design. they took a decent product and made it awful. Unfortunate.

You will need a complete front end- fork, swingarm, and internals.

Trying again to post pics. Maybe I was enchanted by the seats.

That scooter is almost definitely from Indonesia/Bali. Possibly Vietnam but I'm leaning towards Indo. Apart from the very bodgy fork and the style of the seats, there's a few clues.

Indo scooters can be ok, but given the fork you would want to assume the worst for your own safety. There are certainly some bad ones about.

I'd start out checking for excessive bog with a magnet, and go on to check the frame internally for non-factory welds. There may be some disappointments in store when you get into the motor as they are well known for some destructive fixes. A mate had one and they had turned down the crank and re-welded the case so that the rotary valve now extended in further. You can understand why they do this and there is some ingenuity to do so. But here we have different expectations...when you or I need to put a new crank in, it doesn't fit. Just one small example. Not saying your scooter is terrible (except for the fork which is the definition of terrible), just things to be aware of that might save you pouring money into something that will not be worth your considerable time and effort.

Thank you very much for your info I will see whether I keep it or not if I keep it I'll let you know how it's going

PS I've got the butt cam IE boroscope to check all the nooks and crannies in the chassis so hopefully I don't find anything too ugly

I can spot a lot of bondo there...

It could be a good idea to use a leveling laser to check if the frame is straight

Uh oh.......