Modern Vespa

He should install that on the P200 next, though I'll miss the original wiring harness, Ol' Smokey.

You're not wrong.

You're ahead of me!

Wow, thanks!
I made that stand for myself, after a completed build fell off a vice to the floor Total joy to work on a motor vs otherwise.
Made maybe 40 or so before getting burned out. Great to see them put to use out there.

So we can also dismount the motor directly onto the stand, right?

I replace those plastic connectors with 2 pin waterproof connectors now. Those connectors seem just wrong for that area subject to weather.
Also, make sure brown is connected 100% to both the motor and the plate, ie no interference to case ground from rubber buffers. That's one of the main issues I've read with the Vape, which are very few. A tether wire to a flywheel cover bolt will do it.

And M3 ring terminals for the junction box, as C'man mentioned.

Btw did you notice those images in the instruction pamphlet are screenshots of that wrong video you watched?
They must have printed too many of those to correct them.

I don't think I've ever had the same revision of the installation instructions twice, and I think I own six Vapes.

Ray, the stand's a champ. Lifting the engine from the stand into the bike was a piece of cake. Going the other direction would be dicey. Easier to just drop it.

I tried to make SIP's blade connectors work. I really did. Got a new P style junction box (which, naturally didn't quite fit and had to be modified), snipped off all my ring connectors, crimped and heat shrunk new blades. Looked ugly and nothing fit. Total freaking waste of time. Went back to the original box and rings.

Got a tether ground to the flywheel cover.

All I can say is this better be worth the effort.

Waterproof connectors to the CDI is a good idea but not gonna fuss with it. I'm so done crimping wire. Might squirt a little silicone in the terminal.

Looking good amigo!

After a marathon textfest yesterday with CM1 and CM2 to chase down some no-start gremlins (leaky carb and bad spark plug), ol yeller finally popped off and is up and running. Thx amigos.

Starts easy and idles steady. Still need to wire up the lights.

Based on a couple of short rides up and down the hill, the Stelvio has good power down low. Got a Polini-ish feel to it.

Beauty that!

So good to see Yellow back on the road

Time to start planning the next trip...

Good man, Mike, good man. It probably would have taken me days for what you did in hours.

and that was the high beam

What brand of acetylene do you use in that lamp?



The Vape is a good system, I'm running a 55 watt globe in mine. Just don't believe the guff about producing 110 watts at idle.

Truth here. It puts out lots of light, but will strobe LED's and electronics a SIP speedo, unless your idle is set to about 1300-1350 RPM's.

It will be amazing compared to what SoCal is used to, though, which I think was him holding up his lighter with one hand while steering with the other.

After repeated fiddling with with the oil tank fitting, I finally managed to succeed in making the drip worse than it was.

Going to try something new. Stand by.

I would try some copper or aluminum drain plug washers...

Tried copper … but apparently left out a crucial step.

Apart from the drip, the Stelvio with the longstroke + super gearing is a joy. Loads of pull. Runs up hills without breaking a sweat.

And they said it couldn't be done!! That's great news! How much more power would you say in percentage?

I've had pretty good success with this goo in addition to the sealing washers on leaks like that.

Thx Rob, I'll swoop some up. Still have a couple more ideas to try.

Even Piaggio knew a banjo bolt there at the bottom was a bad design. They ditched it later for a one piece fitting. There's nothing I can't un-fix.

As for the percentage power difference, hard to say. Don't want to exaggerate, but it feels like 25% at least. Really pulls.

Kinda feels like a Camaro engine on a scooter no? Gotta strap your hands to the bars and what not.

lol don't know about that, but it's quicker than it was, for sure.

the real test will be if if it can do distances.

This is what I always try to jet for. When you get on a stretch of road that you pretty much keep it WOT for five miles, after 15 minutes of running fast to begin with. If it stays under 300F, I call it good.

Just for clarity, where do you sample the temp at? Cylinder head stud/bolt?

Spark plug...

There are no concerns about the sensor changing the plug protrusion into the combustion chamber? Or do you remove the plug washer in the process?

Thanks for the wisdom.

yup, good rule of thumb. these engines should be able to run a flat stretch WOT all day long at a steady temp. cylinder and head temps should drop when the engine's not under full load.

i think a lot of folks forget that the engine needs to be thoroughly heat soaked to really button down the jetting.

Rikko - i run a sensor under the plug. the copper ring replaces the ring on the spark plug. if there's a difference in protrusion it's negligible.

Yellow, the Comeback Kid

Wooohooooo!

Which app are you using, SoCalGuy?

We did some 'spermenting with SoCals leak to halt it.

Word on the street is: it worked.

When I say we, I mean us and Grok.
For fun, we asked AI to help us solve the pesky leak.

We described the issue (70's Vespa oil reservoir), and asked for best approach.

Grocks answer was kinda interesting. Suggested that, yes, we should use copper washers rather than use composite ones - but then… it added a twist.

It suggested Mike anneal the copper washers to soften them.

Now maybe you guys all do this as a matter of course, but I've never heard of it. I mean it makes sense - but it just wasn't on the radar.

So Mike tried the process it suggested - or something like it (?) and…

Voila. Leak stopped.

I don't know if AI is going to take my job, but it might help me stop some stuff from leaking!

None of us had ever heard of 'annealing' (heating) copper washers to make them more malleable - and seal better - until Ned asked his AI friend Grok …

I was skeptical, but damn if it didn't work.

Next time you have a pesky leak, try it.

metadaddy: I use a free GPS /speedometer app called Sp33dy. I like it for its simplicity. Nice big bold read out.

You normally only need to anneal copper sealing washers if you're reusing old ones in a different place, new ones are supplied ready to use.

Common where I come from, as well.

Huh. Learn summpin' new every day.

66! Congrats... getting close to 70 over 8's!
(May need to make a new batch of stickers.)

Lemme know when you get those printed and I'll go do a fresh 70 on 8"s run to earn it.

Grok noted: sneaking used copper washers was a known thing in the fix it world (also hadn't heard of that), but suggested we try it with new washers.

The idea is: they work harden as you tighten them up.

In any event, new or used, it's an interesting trick for the tool belt should u need it.

I suspect 70 will be reached on the next group outing… nothing like riding with others to help in poor decision making.

Still waiting for mine!

Also gunning for the 80 on 8's adventure…

Pretty sure it'll do 70. The stars aligned on this build.

Needless to say, the speed runs are for testing only.

The older i get the less interested i am in going crazy fast on this little thing. the suspension is stiff as a board and every bump goes right up through the frame, seat and headset. it doesn't absorb anything. it's a hoot in the twisties, but a pretty wild ride going fast on surface streets.

Anyhow … big thx to all who chimed in, followed along and assisted getting yellow back up and running.

Time to start planing another road trip!