Modern Vespa

Been a while since I posted an update on the project

I have decided to get it properly painted as I found someone who will do it at a reasonable cost. So it's back apart again and heading to the paintshop this weekend to get the dings etc taken out

More progress as it happens 😀

A few photos from the paint master who is doing fine work on the powder coat metalwork.

some of you may be wondering why i am having it sprayed on top of the powder coat, when the powder coat looks so good.... well the reason is, it looks good on photos and i WAS going to leave its bumps and lumps for all to see, then i had an attack of the guilty conscience about it being one of only 800. so i came to the decision to change tack and give it the finish it so rightfully deserves.

Progress photos below, lots of flatting back, filling and etched primer

A few more photos from the paintshop for me to share of the current components in prep

Well... I got the parts back from the painter a little while back and rebuild had begun again..

Couple of progress pics to share. Points to note, all new stainless fasteners aee being used and replacement rubber trims where I could find them and they were of suitable fit and quality

Slow progress yesterday. I decided tbat most of tne repro parts (rubber and plastic) were either just rubbish or plain wrong supplied.

Therefore I spent most of the day going through my stock or stripped from other scooters over the years parts and examining / cleaning to ensure it looked acceptable for the build, a case in point is the sidepanel rubbers. The ones I was supplied by my dealer of choice as comparable didn't have the internal L profile to fit the panel so they were replaced with a set from the scrap box.. It surprised me that a little once over with some metal polish brought them back to "as new" visually.

Ah! There's a glimmer at the end of the tunnel... I was wondering what's the easiest fix for the surfer's dream of a floor. I just found out myself two days ago about this common issue. Hammer and dolly, gotcha. It's about time I learned how to use them 😁

If the crease is on the stand area and has also bent where the lip of the tunnel meets.... place your panel beating hammer on the crease and bray it flat first..
Then work your way across the other surfers paradise after tbat is straight...

I used a long straight edge as my guide to flatness

Finally found a name for the Scooter

Costa Fortuna

I think it fits with the fact its Spanish and expensive restoration, especially in terms of labour +

As long as it's not Costa Concordia 😁

Try as I might I can't fit...

- Four swimming pools (two with retractable glass roofs).
- A Formula 1 racing simulator.
- A three-story theater (Athens Theater).
- 13 themed bars, six restaurants, a casino, and a disco .

Unless I used Timelord Technology on the glove box..... toddles off to get a crash course in matter compression

😂😂😂

I meant more like hundreds of millions in cost before running it up a rock and chopping it for raw steel, but yours works too. 😁

Had some time in the workshop to do a few odds and sods on the T5. Its almost back to where it was when I decided to strip it back down for painting properly...

Been working too many hours of late which is getting in the way of funtime + doing stuff on a friends

Refitted.
Floor mats
Choke
Cables
Rear brake
Stand

Then dismantled and removed a front hub and backplate for good measure ready for refurbishment

Some photos as I know we all love them 😀

It's a funny thing the color on this...
.depending on ambient light outside, depends on the colour inside under the fluorescent.... which reminds me I just get round to fitting the led light strip in its place

On a bike or in the garage? 😁

I've been there and done that with a scooter

The lights in the workshop is what I meant 😀

Im trying out a new (to me) rust remover solution. And it WOW is it good.... no attack of the paint and what a result after only a few hour's
I may not even need the replacement fuel sender I bought

I've left the fuel sender in overnight and will come back to it tomorrow evening.

The tank has gone from a coating of rust inside to clean as a whistle, so I have jet washed it out and left to dry.. ill probably rebuild the tank tomorrow

Also today I cleaned a couple of stable mates and refurbished tje front hub with new bearings and seals + shoes.

All the original screws and fasteners were re used and I think they look awesome.. very pleased with this weekends efforts

Lot of nice results here.
What is your rust removal solution?

Deox-c , made by "Bilt & Hamber"

"being a liquid, Deox-C penetrates into any crevices and flaws to remove corrosion completely"

Edited to add link of where I purchased it
https://amzn.eu/d/b2F8lpR

How did I miss all this goodness? Fantastic work Gravelrash!

Thanks for the positive comments 😀


They are great to receive from all and much appreciated.

Only today have I realised that you had the frame powder coated. Naturally, I'm curious as to why.

Another question is regarding the front axle pivot pin replacement. Which method did you use? Press, vice, hand tools... the Force?

If you haven't already, I recommend watching an episode of Beyond Ballistics yt channel. This one specifically: He's making his own rust remover, and compares it to commercial products. I can't say anything is wrong with Deox-C, haven't used it myself. However, this guy's findings are pretty impressive, IMO. Food for (future?) thought.

Great job btw. 💪🏻

I like powder coat as it is a tough and resilient product and it's a great basecoat for painting + with the choice of colours its a greaf finish in its own right

I usually have a massive fight with pivot pins, so many salt corroded ones to fight with... what I do now, is cut down the side of the pins with a 1mm cutting disk. Then use a press to remove the pin in sections. I broke so many wishbones im the past that I now take a more brutal route and this way works for me

Huh... cutting disk is, I must admit, a surprising choice. But a very likeable one! Thanks for the wisdom.

Re. the powder coating, I get the sentiment. My concern with coating is that it hides the condition of what's lying underneath, for longer, in comparison to lacquer. So if there was something happening underneath, I'm inclined to believe that paint would show it much sooner than powder, with potential to act early.

A fine point, but I guess its really a matter of personal choice and horses for courses.

To each their own 😀

Grumble grumble..... stripped threads... grumble.... should have paid closer attention.. grumble.... replacement ordered...grumble.. bloody headstock stupid fastening idea....grumble


Lopes off to feel sorry for himself and sulk in a darkened corner....

Swears never to do another T5 and stick to P Range with silly tuned motors... they easier to play on (for me.at least). Pinch bolt.. much better idea

Must have missed an episode... on page 1 you had a disc brake fitted; what's with the drum brake?

If you want to see
some brochures for the T5 model:

Lovely job on this so far.

Is the flywheel on these same as normal only with the addition of a starter ring?

It's a specific, lighter rotor, that doesn't fit on a PX crank.

Yes, I know that. What I was asking was if the elestart flywheel was the same as the standard item other than the starter ring. I have some Motovespa elestart T5 cases here so if it's as simple as pressing on a starter ring I might go that way with them.

No, they're not the same. Left: non electric start /right: electric start with ring removed.

Okay, thanks for the info.

I'll keep a casual eye open for an elestart T5 flywheel then.

I seem to have missed a few upda4es and questions

Yes I originally had a disk brake ready for this. Then I had a fit of "anorak blues" and changed it back to a drum brake as there were so few electric start ones made that I decided to back track and fit a drum brake to it instead

Modified headset available if anyone wants it??

Had a bit of time this evening to do a few bits. Fitted the 3rd set of forks to the thing.

I dont see why It wouldn't be possible to change the boss and adapt a PX electric start flywheel to use? Could possibly need a smidge of additional machining.

I've fit a T5 flywheel to a PX this way, so I dont see it beyond the realms of possible to do it the other way.... unless someone knows different and can share the knowledge??

Or you could sell me your cases 😀

Great job you did !

Well I'm interested in the headset so I'll send you a PM.

Why would the idea that there were so few made make you change your mind about the disc brake? You've already done the only irreversible bit: hacking the headset. The wheel side of things is only a matter of installing the disc equipment and running the brake fluid line through the fork instead of the cable. You can even have the line exit the headset through the 2 massive windscreen support holes in the plastic body; although if you're in the UK you guys have the mirror on the wrong side so you might have the holes filled with a mirror support. In any case you've already done the hardest part, and the day you want to retire the bike and put it in the museum of elestart T5s, you can revert everything to original provided you find an unmolested headset base.

I have several headsets in my shed, might even be a lefthand drive mirror version if you fancy it Mr. Stein.

Like I said it was a touch of the anorak blues that did it... im even removing the polini top end and going back to 125

I have a selection box of other tuned engines to go in my P range. This will be the only standard scooter I own.. I found a replacement headset on Ebay and sorted that the standard front end.

Well, it seems the disc headset etc is moving north and a double mirror stem headset with mirrors is headed in the opposite direction. There may be a little bit more to it yet.